a/c related questions
#1
73 13B 4 port
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a/c related questions
In hot atlanta days, I am dying to put the A/C back into my car
1) Would my ac compressor requires any oil? I removed the compressor during engine rebuild, but now it is bolted back into the block.
2) where can I find the R12/R134 label on my car?
3) I removed all the hard lines when I was doing my rebuild, do I need all new o-rings in all connections?
4) where are the most common leaks from our ac system?
TIA
1) Would my ac compressor requires any oil? I removed the compressor during engine rebuild, but now it is bolted back into the block.
2) where can I find the R12/R134 label on my car?
3) I removed all the hard lines when I was doing my rebuild, do I need all new o-rings in all connections?
4) where are the most common leaks from our ac system?
TIA
#2
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Some of the refrigerant you will find @ auto stores has oil in it, so its not nec to add oil. ck the label.
the high side ald lowside schrader valves should be on the lines that run along the pass side frame rail, r12 are screw down schrader valves, the 143a are the quickdisconect/schrader valve
for the whole 2$ for new o-rigs its cheap insurance you dont have a leak
make sure you evac they system, typically when we do an ac job its good to run vac for atleast 30min to make sure you boil off any moisture left in the syst. Usally you can get vac to pull in the full weight charge. also charge top the proper weight not the pressures on the gauges. (also if you have acess put dye in it when you have the syst empty might help you in the future)
the high side ald lowside schrader valves should be on the lines that run along the pass side frame rail, r12 are screw down schrader valves, the 143a are the quickdisconect/schrader valve
for the whole 2$ for new o-rigs its cheap insurance you dont have a leak
make sure you evac they system, typically when we do an ac job its good to run vac for atleast 30min to make sure you boil off any moisture left in the syst. Usally you can get vac to pull in the full weight charge. also charge top the proper weight not the pressures on the gauges. (also if you have acess put dye in it when you have the syst empty might help you in the future)
#3
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Yeah, if your doing A/C work, I'd recommend putting some oil in your compressor. Also, it'd be a good idea to retrofit to R134a. R12, if you can still find it, is expensive. All you have to do is change the fittings. R134 uses Pag oil, and R12 I think uses Ester oil, or something. Be a good idea to replace the o-rings. Like he said, pull a vacuum on it for 20-30 min to make sure you get out all contaminates and moisture before charging the system.
If you don't know what you're doing, you could always put the compressor and lines back in and take it to a shop to have it vacuum pumped, then charged up.
If you don't know what you're doing, you could always put the compressor and lines back in and take it to a shop to have it vacuum pumped, then charged up.
#4
73 13B 4 port
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I got like 7-8 o-rings from Malloy, can anyone tell me which are the most important ones, minus the 2 from the dryers and 2 from the compressor, I am most concern with the ones that are hard to get to from the hardlines. TIA.
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id deffinetly say the hard to reach ones would be most important, but their pretty much equally important. just take a look at them you should be able to take them to any napa and match them up with stock one, no need to pay the extra mazda surcharge
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Best Advice
Originally Posted by Bacon
Some of the refrigerant you will find @ auto stores has oil in it, so its not nec to add oil. ck the label.
the high side ald lowside schrader valves should be on the lines that run along the pass side frame rail, r12 are screw down schrader valves, the 143a are the quickdisconect/schrader valve
for the whole 2$ for new o-rigs its cheap insurance you dont have a leak
make sure you evac they system, typically when we do an ac job its good to run vac for atleast 30min to make sure you boil off any moisture left in the syst. Usally you can get vac to pull in the full weight charge. also charge top the proper weight not the pressures on the gauges. (also if you have acess put dye in it when you have the syst empty might help you in the future)
the high side ald lowside schrader valves should be on the lines that run along the pass side frame rail, r12 are screw down schrader valves, the 143a are the quickdisconect/schrader valve
for the whole 2$ for new o-rigs its cheap insurance you dont have a leak
make sure you evac they system, typically when we do an ac job its good to run vac for atleast 30min to make sure you boil off any moisture left in the syst. Usally you can get vac to pull in the full weight charge. also charge top the proper weight not the pressures on the gauges. (also if you have acess put dye in it when you have the syst empty might help you in the future)
I just replaced my lines and o-rings. You can get an O-ring (Green o-rings) kit from Auto Zone, Advance, or Napa and it will have ALL the O-rings (Green O-rings) in the kit. After you replace ALL the O-rings take it to a shop and allow them to put a vacuum on the system and fill it back up with R-12 is possible. It's not as expensive as it used to be. I had my system vacuumed down and refilled with R-12 for under $100.00. NO MATTER WHAT ANYONE TELLS YOU R-134 DOES NOT COOL AS GOOD AS R-12 and being in GA I know you want to be cool fast. Pay the extra $20.00 or $40.00 and get the R-12. You may have to call around and get a good price on it, because a lot of people don't have anymore, but the machine usually puts oil and dye into the system.
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