A/C Compressor - MANA or NIPPON - visual confirmation?
09-08-11, 02:21 PM
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A/C Compressor - MANA or NIPPON - visual confirmation?
I've done a bunch of searching, and from some older posts I've read that explain there were two A/C systems, a MANA and a Nippondenso, for various trim packages.
My car is a 93 Base model automatic. However, at some point the original owner (he had it from 93-2007ish decided to have it converted from auto to manual. From the receipts I got at purchase (can't find now), he swapped the entire engine/tranny drivetrain at a Mazda dealership (arm + leg!).
It's possible the A/C system is not the original one that came with the car, so I want to know if there is an easy way to visually check which system I have.
I'm looking to replace my compressor and accumulator, possibly expansion valve, and all o-rings. Basically an A/C overhaul.
I've found re-manufactured Ready-Aire 1807 compressor w/clutch that's listed for 93 RX7 on ebay for $120ish.... that would be a great deal IF it fits correctly.
My car is a 93 Base model automatic. However, at some point the original owner (he had it from 93-2007ish decided to have it converted from auto to manual. From the receipts I got at purchase (can't find now), he swapped the entire engine/tranny drivetrain at a Mazda dealership (arm + leg!).
It's possible the A/C system is not the original one that came with the car, so I want to know if there is an easy way to visually check which system I have.
I'm looking to replace my compressor and accumulator, possibly expansion valve, and all o-rings. Basically an A/C overhaul.
I've found re-manufactured Ready-Aire 1807 compressor w/clutch that's listed for 93 RX7 on ebay for $120ish.... that would be a great deal IF it fits correctly.
09-08-11, 03:12 PM
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09-08-11, 08:30 PM
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Black dryer with the sight glass attached to the hose is a MANA system.
And not to sound rude but doesn't visual confirmation usually require a visual? Like a Picture.
John
And not to sound rude but doesn't visual confirmation usually require a visual? Like a Picture.
John
09-08-11, 09:19 PM
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by visual i meant is there something *i* can visually look for (like the sight glass you mentioned) to determine the difference.... i would have taken a pic but i was at work when i was researching this
im going to check for the sight glass in the morning, thanks!
09-09-11, 06:40 PM
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after replacement, im going to have the system vacuumed and refilled with a proper filling station.
ive done this overhaul routine before on my previous cars, and it makes a 100% improvement compared to just replacing the broken part and recharging it with a DIY canister.
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09-09-11, 10:59 PM
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on a normal car I do agree with you as I was qualified for A/C certification in the past
keep in mind, getting into the evaporator is going to be a pain
and if you are in there, you might want to replace the A/C thermoswitch which commonly go bad as well, but you dont have to
I plan to refill my car up with some ESi12a pretty soon
keep in mind, getting into the evaporator is going to be a pain
and if you are in there, you might want to replace the A/C thermoswitch which commonly go bad as well, but you dont have to
I plan to refill my car up with some ESi12a pretty soon
09-09-11, 11:56 PM
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on a normal car I do agree with you as I was qualified for A/C certification in the past
keep in mind, getting into the evaporator is going to be a pain
and if you are in there, you might want to replace the A/C thermoswitch which commonly go bad as well, but you dont have to
I plan to refill my car up with some ESi12a pretty soon
keep in mind, getting into the evaporator is going to be a pain
and if you are in there, you might want to replace the A/C thermoswitch which commonly go bad as well, but you dont have to
I plan to refill my car up with some ESi12a pretty soon
i tried doing a search for more info on the thermoswitch, but everything seems to be about radiator fan control and nothing to do with a/c.
do you have any info or part number on the a/c thermoswitch? its possible that is my bad part, and not my compressor. i am not 100% confident in the troubleshooting that the previous mechanic did who looked at it, so i wouldnt mind doublechecking before buying a compressor for no reason.
09-10-11, 04:43 AM
#11
The thermoswitch you're looking for is on the evaporator--not to be confused with the fan-control thermoswitch located on the water pump housing. Two different switches.
If the evaporator thermoswitch goes bad, the compressor will be non-op, as it will be if the refrigerant low pressure switch opens. The FD compressors are rarely a problem, the compressors from the Denso and Mana systems are, in fact, identical and interchangeable.
If your system is holding a charge, I would not recommend breaking it open unless you positively know the compressor has died--as in mechanically failed or seized up--especially for R-12 systems. The usual problem with the TV-14 compressor is that the shaft seal starts to leak. Is your system a R134 conversion by chance?
If the system is intact, the best tune-up you can give it is a proper evacuation and charge with ES-i12, or alternatively, real R-12.
If the evaporator thermoswitch goes bad, the compressor will be non-op, as it will be if the refrigerant low pressure switch opens. The FD compressors are rarely a problem, the compressors from the Denso and Mana systems are, in fact, identical and interchangeable.
If your system is holding a charge, I would not recommend breaking it open unless you positively know the compressor has died--as in mechanically failed or seized up--especially for R-12 systems. The usual problem with the TV-14 compressor is that the shaft seal starts to leak. Is your system a R134 conversion by chance?
If the system is intact, the best tune-up you can give it is a proper evacuation and charge with ES-i12, or alternatively, real R-12.
09-10-11, 11:18 AM
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like I said, i recommend you not get into the evaporator unless you really must
it would be best just to replace the broken part, pull a vacuum and fill
you can jump the thermoswitch behind the glove box with a wire, to test it - i dont have the link but should come up in search
I have had an A/C compressor go bad on my FD so it is possible that is the problem
normally, when a thermoswitch goes bad, the A/C is cold when you first turn it on then stays warm
if you have a leak in the system it is not the thermoswitch
on a 93 there is a hidden nut on the evaporator
and
here is the thermoswitch diagram, the image on the right
it would be best just to replace the broken part, pull a vacuum and fill
you can jump the thermoswitch behind the glove box with a wire, to test it - i dont have the link but should come up in search
I have had an A/C compressor go bad on my FD so it is possible that is the problem
normally, when a thermoswitch goes bad, the A/C is cold when you first turn it on then stays warm
if you have a leak in the system it is not the thermoswitch
on a 93 there is a hidden nut on the evaporator
and
here is the thermoswitch diagram, the image on the right
09-27-11, 11:11 AM
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Latest from the shop...
The compressor was bad, replaced that. Pulled Vacuum, everything seemed to be working correctly, but then when they went to fill with r134, there was a problem with pressure not being right on one side (low side I think), i guess flow is blocked? shop said it's the expansion valve, which is likely to have died with the compressor....considering its age and amount of time the system has been dead, I'm not surprised.
I was trying to avoid replacing the expansion since it requires SO much labor, but had to bite the bullet and order a new expansion valve from Ray at Malloy. There are cheaper generic aftermarket vavles at half the cost, but I figure if it requires 5-6hours labor to replace it again, I better get the OEM part the first time.
Here's a new problem...
The drier I got did not fit my lines. I thought I had a Mana drier according to previous posts, so I figured the generic drier from Advance auto should work, but it didnt. I'm going to snap some pics in a few...
Ray at Malloy said that mazda doesn't make the drier anymore, so you have to go aftermarket generic... the problem is, none of the parts stores I've checked so far recongize the difference between Mana/NP... they just look up 93 RX7 and get one part for all...
The compressor was bad, replaced that. Pulled Vacuum, everything seemed to be working correctly, but then when they went to fill with r134, there was a problem with pressure not being right on one side (low side I think), i guess flow is blocked? shop said it's the expansion valve, which is likely to have died with the compressor....considering its age and amount of time the system has been dead, I'm not surprised.
I was trying to avoid replacing the expansion since it requires SO much labor, but had to bite the bullet and order a new expansion valve from Ray at Malloy. There are cheaper generic aftermarket vavles at half the cost, but I figure if it requires 5-6hours labor to replace it again, I better get the OEM part the first time.
Here's a new problem...
The drier I got did not fit my lines. I thought I had a Mana drier according to previous posts, so I figured the generic drier from Advance auto should work, but it didnt. I'm going to snap some pics in a few...
Ray at Malloy said that mazda doesn't make the drier anymore, so you have to go aftermarket generic... the problem is, none of the parts stores I've checked so far recongize the difference between Mana/NP... they just look up 93 RX7 and get one part for all...
09-27-11, 11:19 AM
#14
The FD compressors are rarely a problem, the compressors from the Denso and Mana systems are, in fact, identical and interchangeable.
In regards to the drier...many others have ordered a "MANA" replacement drier only to find out it is the Denso. There is a great thread somewhere where an observant member went through this and realized the MANA unit has a small bevel that the Denso does not and had a machine shop add this bevel to his aftermarket Denso drier to make it fit like a MANA.
Confused yet?
I may have a MANA drier if you would like me to check...although if you have a new one, might want to see about getting it machined.
09-27-11, 11:43 AM
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many people will have used dryers laying around in good condition
as long as you pull a vacuum for a good while they will be perfectly fine
and DONT use R134a, bro
use 1.5 to 2 cans of this stuff, make sure you get the industrial
as long as you pull a vacuum for a good while they will be perfectly fine
and DONT use R134a, bro
use 1.5 to 2 cans of this stuff, make sure you get the industrial
09-27-11, 01:08 PM
#16
Thread about machining MANA dryer:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=bevel+dryer
My understanding (which may be incorrect) is that MANA and Denso dryers are not the same and that it is NOT simply a case of machining a bevel of a Denso dryer to make it fit on a MANA system - a MANA-style dryer must be ordered (this linked thread has a part number).
Unfortunately, the only (aftermarket) MANA-style dryer available does not have the necessary bevel.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=bevel+dryer
My understanding (which may be incorrect) is that MANA and Denso dryers are not the same and that it is NOT simply a case of machining a bevel of a Denso dryer to make it fit on a MANA system - a MANA-style dryer must be ordered (this linked thread has a part number).
Unfortunately, the only (aftermarket) MANA-style dryer available does not have the necessary bevel.
09-27-11, 01:23 PM
#17
many people will have used dryers laying around in good condition
as long as you pull a vacuum for a good while they will be perfectly fine
and DONT use R134a, bro
use 1.5 to 2 cans of this stuff, make sure you get the industrial
as long as you pull a vacuum for a good while they will be perfectly fine
and DONT use R134a, bro
use 1.5 to 2 cans of this stuff, make sure you get the industrial
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