Bypass Fuel pump relay question
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Bypass Fuel pump relay question
Sorry to be a burden, but if I do this
to my fuel pump relay located in the very front of the car will it simply bypass or tell the fuel pump 2 stage resistor to stay in full 12v mode? Or whatever the higher voltage is?
I saw a thread about this, but I wanted to confirm as the person who posted this pic said this is how he did it...... he also said it will burn out the resistor.. I don't think that's what he actually meant so I wanted to confirm this with someone. I don't want to burn out my 2 stage resistor, but I want it to stay full "high" mode.
to my fuel pump relay located in the very front of the car will it simply bypass or tell the fuel pump 2 stage resistor to stay in full 12v mode? Or whatever the higher voltage is?
I saw a thread about this, but I wanted to confirm as the person who posted this pic said this is how he did it...... he also said it will burn out the resistor.. I don't think that's what he actually meant so I wanted to confirm this with someone. I don't want to burn out my 2 stage resistor, but I want it to stay full "high" mode.
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
OK, just looked at the wiring diagram in the shop manual, section B-1a.
The circuit opening relay is the first relay in the fuel pump circuit, it goes from there to the fuel pump relay which is in parallel with the fuel pump resistor. If the fuel pump relay is open, all current goes through the resistor and you get 9v. If the relay is closed, all current goes through the fuel pump relay (path of least resistance) and you get 12v.
The fuel pump relay is in the front relay box, left most relay. If you jumper that so that it acts like the relay is always active (closed) you are good to go.
BTW hope you are at DGRR this year!
Dale
The circuit opening relay is the first relay in the fuel pump circuit, it goes from there to the fuel pump relay which is in parallel with the fuel pump resistor. If the fuel pump relay is open, all current goes through the resistor and you get 9v. If the relay is closed, all current goes through the fuel pump relay (path of least resistance) and you get 12v.
The fuel pump relay is in the front relay box, left most relay. If you jumper that so that it acts like the relay is always active (closed) you are good to go.
BTW hope you are at DGRR this year!
Dale
The following users liked this post:
Testrun (04-16-23)
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
This one correct? I just remember reading someone blew up their resistor by jumping this. I don't want to blow anything up lol. This is not a high amp or anything. I see nothing wrong with this, but I just wanted to double check with you guys.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I say in plain English because following an old thread someone I believe misspoke (or mistyped in this scenario) and said he burned his resistor. Again, I want to make sure it won't burn it. Looking at diagrams and having a general understanding of this I see no reason why it should. Asking people who have a better than general understanding is a safer bet.
Last edited by Testrun; 04-16-23 at 12:16 PM.
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
The person that blew the resistor probably jumped the wrong 2 wires. That will be the main thing to make sure the correct wires are jumpered.
If you do it right it will just run like the car is in 12v mode all the time, that's it. The resistor will still be there but won't be doing anything since it's bypassed.
Dale
If you do it right it will just run like the car is in 12v mode all the time, that's it. The resistor will still be there but won't be doing anything since it's bypassed.
Dale
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The person that blew the resistor probably jumped the wrong 2 wires. That will be the main thing to make sure the correct wires are jumpered.
If you do it right it will just run like the car is in 12v mode all the time, that's it. The resistor will still be there but won't be doing anything since it's bypassed.
Dale
If you do it right it will just run like the car is in 12v mode all the time, that's it. The resistor will still be there but won't be doing anything since it's bypassed.
Dale
Trending Topics
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I am trouble shooting their fuel pump rewire harness. I believe they are getting their power for the coil in the relay from the 2 step resistor and I want to bypass it to have a constant 12v.
The 50 amp relay in the harness is heating up and I'm not sure why. I am swappimg it out, but want to see if this fixes the problem. It is a Song Chaun relay.... when bosch just isn't good enough lol
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
The circuit path is not terribly hard to follow, from the battery to the fuel pump. I went through the trouble when I was having a somewhat similar issue. If you're fuel pump, or something else, is drawing too much amperage, that's a big problem. The solution to run the pump wide open, all the time, won't do you any favors, though. Best to find the root cause in case it's something significant. Treating symptoms with Sakebomb's harness may not actually solve the real problem.
All this to say that I suggest you thoroughly troubleshoot the system before implementing workarounds.
All this to say that I suggest you thoroughly troubleshoot the system before implementing workarounds.
The following users liked this post:
Testrun (04-16-23)
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Appreciate it. The Sakebomb's harness was installed about 2 years ago or so.
There isn't too much to really check unless my pump is just going ballistic and pulling more amps than it's meant to. Denso supra pump with maybe 7-8k miles on it. Shouldn't pull more than 21 amps from what I understand. All the wire is beautiful. I have much more copper than I need. The grounds are beautiful. The fuse is now with an excellent quality holder (maxi fuse 30 amp). The fuse and all wires are cool after running wot for laps around the track, the relay ground is solid. The wires to spades in relay are solid. The power to the pump is solid.. Solid I guess until the relay starts heating up.
The relay could have been damaged when the fuse holder melted so it should be swapped regardless.
I see no harm in jumping this for a solid 12v. The pump runs at max regardless of the 2 step voltage so as long as the relay is closed.
There isn't too much to really check unless my pump is just going ballistic and pulling more amps than it's meant to. Denso supra pump with maybe 7-8k miles on it. Shouldn't pull more than 21 amps from what I understand. All the wire is beautiful. I have much more copper than I need. The grounds are beautiful. The fuse is now with an excellent quality holder (maxi fuse 30 amp). The fuse and all wires are cool after running wot for laps around the track, the relay ground is solid. The wires to spades in relay are solid. The power to the pump is solid.. Solid I guess until the relay starts heating up.
The relay could have been damaged when the fuse holder melted so it should be swapped regardless.
I see no harm in jumping this for a solid 12v. The pump runs at max regardless of the 2 step voltage so as long as the relay is closed.
Last edited by Testrun; 04-16-23 at 09:27 PM.
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Appreciate it. The Sakebomb's harness was installed about 2 years ago or so.
There isn't too much to really check unless my pump is just going ballistic and pulling more amps than it's meant to. Denso supra pump with maybe 7-8k miles on it. Shouldn't pull more than 21 amps from what I understand. All the wire is beautiful. I have much more copper than I need. The grounds are beautiful. The fuse is now with an excellent quality holder (maxi fuse 30 amp). The fuse and all wires are cool after running wot for laps around the track, the relay ground is solid. The wires to spades in relay are solid. The power to the pump is solid.. Solid I guess until the relay starts heating up.
The relay could have been damaged when the fuse holder melted so it should be swapped regardless.
I see no harm in jumping this for a solid 12v. The pump runs at max regardless of the 2 step voltage so as long as the relay is closed.
There isn't too much to really check unless my pump is just going ballistic and pulling more amps than it's meant to. Denso supra pump with maybe 7-8k miles on it. Shouldn't pull more than 21 amps from what I understand. All the wire is beautiful. I have much more copper than I need. The grounds are beautiful. The fuse is now with an excellent quality holder (maxi fuse 30 amp). The fuse and all wires are cool after running wot for laps around the track, the relay ground is solid. The wires to spades in relay are solid. The power to the pump is solid.. Solid I guess until the relay starts heating up.
The relay could have been damaged when the fuse holder melted so it should be swapped regardless.
I see no harm in jumping this for a solid 12v. The pump runs at max regardless of the 2 step voltage so as long as the relay is closed.
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Right on!! Sounds like you've covered bases well. If you were doing more street driving than track, the constant 12V would probably catch up to you in pump wear. In my case, I was trying to run a surge tank setup with over-sized pumps on stock wiring. I did change my circuit opening relay in my troubleshooting process. I hate electrical systems.
I am sure your stock wiring wasn't too happy, lol..
Last edited by Testrun; 04-17-23 at 05:46 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lost Time
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
11-20-02 03:11 AM