here's my choice:
*'94 R model. 103k mi. 3" Greddy exhaust, VDO boost & water temp gauges, air box mod, fan mod. ugly 18" chome wheels (to be sold) on Yokohama rubber. pic attatched. $13k just passed smog
problems boosting. possibly vaccum related as it boosts SOMETIMES to 11psi or so.
*'93 R model. 120k mi. totally stock, never been touched execpt for a Sparco boost gauge. ugly fast and furious wing (the plastic type that goes up on the ends, ala the black civics'). $11k just passed smog

to me it's a no brainer: the '93. i figure EITHER will need to be rebuilt so i will be buying a rebuilt with street port/4mm apex seals.
so is a '94 THAT much better to have than a '93??

any input is appreciated. i will be buying friday, 08/22 around 1pm.

PLEASE HELP. thanks

 

Both cars are really high milage for the price. With over 100k miles, you're gonna need a rebuild of course...but theres a lot of other little things that are gettin old and worn out...trust me, the little things are the WORST.

 

Negotiate for a lower price on the 93.

 

that's what i was thinkin'.

 

is there a thread on this board that list some common things to change after the 100k mark? i did a search and couldn't find anything.

 

Is the overall condition the same? Interior & exterior? Which one rides the way you want?

Don't forget the Brand new $700 Petitt ECU that is in installed the 94.

 

4mm seals? Wah?

 

Where does he list that there's a pettit ecu?
I'd go for the '94 regardless. The extra $$ you put into getting it will be reflected when the time comes to sell it (just because it's a '94).
If you want a list of things that should be done regularly, call Mazdatrix. They will tell you everything you need to do/know.

 

Don't forget to call any mazda dealer's service dept. and give them the VIN. They will be able to tell you if all the recalls had been done on the 93 or not.

 

good point on the ECU. well, after test driving it the second time.. i just found it has developed a "miss". not sure i want to know why. says it will be fixed by friday.. question is: how well? do i wanna find out???

at a price diff of $2k, i can buy an ECU and other stuff...
i'm getting bad vibes on the '94.

i found a company that does 4mm seals. sweet! if it's too expensive, i'll go with 3mm. i figure they have to do machining either way, right? may as well go with 4mm.

 

done that. all required recalls have been done on both, as well as the service related ones (on the '93. not sure of the '94).

the way the '94 is running right now (random boosting.. missing...) has me worried. i was so ready to buy it right away.

 

What company? Any linky?!!

 

Holy Schnikes batman! You need to do some research....stick with stock 2 or 3mm seals....

 

Yeah, search for the diff. between 2mm and 3mm... it should be more trouble than its worth, unless your running 80 pounds of boost

 

Bigger is not better, go with 2mm seals (good to about 20psi boost btw...). The larger the seal, the worse the sealing in general. If you want to spend money on not popping your motor (which I assume is the goal of 4mm seals), keep it cool and keep the boost down. You can make 300rwhp at 10psi easy, and if you feel its still not enough at that point, let us know and we'll be happy to spend your money

 

you should really be able to get that price down on the 93... all stock and 120k is going to equal alot of patience and tender loving care . On the bright side, alot of the high mileage parts will be replaced anyway once you start to mod it and you get to pick the mods you want.

 

i plan on having 400-450whp when i'm done. i'm coming from an integra that ran 12.79s and want this car to be fast too.
will 2mm seals work for that much power? i'm guessing 20psi should be good for about 315 at the wheels?
so maybe i need 3mm??

i'm having problems find ANY FD for much less than $11k. i found ONE for $10,500 at a dealer but they add tax, license, etc. this seems to be my best bet so far.
all other FDs i've found have been modded within an inch of their life.. truth is.. i have no idea what little "tricks" have been done to them.
the '93 i'm leaning towards seems like a fine car. i'll know tonight, maybe, when i go look at it. they guy "says" he is getting rid of it 'cause his wife was pissed at him for having four kids and buying a sports car. .. but we'll see. radiator, FMIC, etc are all in the works. i'm gonna cool it down 'fore i boost it up.

as for being a mechanic: i did all the engine/turbo work on my integra. well, me and my friends. we have NO isssues with labor. between all of us we have more turbo, blower, and motor installs then we care to think about..
TLC is expected.. though i'll most likely just send out for the rebuilt with street port.. now with 3mm seals??
thanks for all the help/advice guys. it is much needed and appreciated!

 

Bwahahaha, you need to do some research man. Slow down and spend some time reading.

You can get over 300 rwhp at 12 psi with just a few bolt-ons and an ecu. With that, you will be getting mid to high 12s on drag radials (and good driving skills of course).

Over 400 rwhp on these cars is insane....most guys making that much aren't getting full traction until the top of 3rd....

 

if this is true, then i will go for 11's haha. if i can get mid 12s with practice out of 300, then that would be great. and at 12psi? hmmm. so 18psi should be perfect! LOL

try driving a front wheel drive integra or civic with 400-450 at the wheels and THEN talk about traction! LOL
that's one reason i'm going back to rear wheel drive.

taking what you just said into consideration.. i suppose 350hp and 12.00-12.30 should be possible?

i've been dealing with modular powered mustangs and hondas for the past few years.. so this is all new. i mean it when i say "thanks" to all you guys for your input. hearing that i can run 12s with 300 h.p. and a few mods is music to my ears... that's why i was running the GS-R. i put about $3500 into that thing and ran 12s as well. all that with about 280-300 whp and a 2700lb car.
thanks again, guys! if anyone else has an input please don't hesitate to share. i'm soaking this up like a SPONGE!

 

Keep in mind RX-7s don't really like or need high boost. A single turbo at 15psi with good tuning can make 400+rwhp and you'll run 11s with that. No need for 3mm seals (although at this level you are getting into the range where they are recommended), really extreme ports, or any other exotic hardware. Just good tuning and bolt-ons.

 

Read this site for good info http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/buyaused.htm

I'd say buy the 94 assuming that you will need to rebuild the motor and turbos on both cars anyway. Lots of problems with the early 93's paint and interior trim peeling. Fixed at some point during the production year. 94 R2's are sweet cars.

Looking back at your post $13k does seem high. Good deal at $10-11 if the paint and interior are good.

 

pm'd u.

 

It's there, I installed it!!

 

The '94 was my car. I gave it up for payoff @ around 10k. Kaj, you gotta let 'em know (if you haven't already) that you have had contact from the person who traded it in and what they got for it. I would think that would help get the cost down a bit.

I never had a "miss" with that car...wonder what that is. It is nice when it boosts right though. I have to say that car almost left a bad taste in my mouth for the FDs though, after already reading about all the problems that you inherit. But they are really sweet cars if you get a good one and know a lot about 'em. Also, like Adam C said, I put a bit of money into it already and he put a lot of work into it. Around 5K's worth if you count it. Get the price down and I would think it would most definitely be worth it. Don't the '93's supposedly have more possible "issues"?

 

the guy is unwilling to come down on $13k despite all it's problems. "i've had 6 people per day come look at it". i reminded him: how many of those 6 people can AFFORD IT? also, i told him: if anyone is gonna pay $13k for a 10yr old car, they are gonna know what it is. they are also gonna know how it should run and will be as disappointed as i am. they are not gonna buy.
he still will not come down from $13k.
the '93 has good paint (a few, normal chips) and flawless interior.

i'm going to check out the '93 today. leaving in 15mins, in fact. when i get there, i will call on the '94 to see if it's done. if it boosted right and didn't miss, i'd take it. we'll see if he was able to get it repaired. so.. i'm thinking maybe $12k for the '94?