BUYING FD3S - Original or Rebuilt?
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BUYING FD3S - Original or Rebuilt?
Hi all,
I'm new to this forum...and hope to make a lot of Rotary friends along the way. I've been into 7's since 1998 and as of late...I've started to take interests (finally due to financial resasons) in finally sitting down and planning for one for purchase. So this leads to my question below. Any advice/info would be helpful! Thanks! Tim
What do you guys/ladies recommend; should I get an original or rebuilt engine?
I read/heard many people say go for the rebuilt if possible...saves time and money. Stock FD-3S's are generally easy to find too...opposed to the 93+Supras (friend has a Supra ^_^).
I'm new to this forum...and hope to make a lot of Rotary friends along the way. I've been into 7's since 1998 and as of late...I've started to take interests (finally due to financial resasons) in finally sitting down and planning for one for purchase. So this leads to my question below. Any advice/info would be helpful! Thanks! Tim
What do you guys/ladies recommend; should I get an original or rebuilt engine?
I read/heard many people say go for the rebuilt if possible...saves time and money. Stock FD-3S's are generally easy to find too...opposed to the 93+Supras (friend has a Supra ^_^).
#2
don't race, don't need to
Tough to say. I went with an original engined car and got 6000 miles out of it (bought it at 61,092 mi). Engine has failed O-rings, so will be replaced in the next week or so.
If the rebuild you find HAS PAPERWORK and the owner can tell you what he's done to it, or can back up his claims of repair/work with receipts, then you should be ok. If they just sas that "it's been rebuilt so it'll last another 50,000 miles", kick them REAL hard and then do the compression testing, followed by coolant filler neck bubble test, followed by looking for oil smoke and oil on the underside of the engine, and.... you get the picture.
I just say kick 'em 'cause they're probably trying to dump a problem child on you. Oh, wait, all used car owners are honest, right? They wouldn't lie to you. They wouldn't NOT disclose the amount of block weld or oil sealant or "fix it all in a can" they poured in to sell it, right?
right?
If the rebuild you find HAS PAPERWORK and the owner can tell you what he's done to it, or can back up his claims of repair/work with receipts, then you should be ok. If they just sas that "it's been rebuilt so it'll last another 50,000 miles", kick them REAL hard and then do the compression testing, followed by coolant filler neck bubble test, followed by looking for oil smoke and oil on the underside of the engine, and.... you get the picture.
I just say kick 'em 'cause they're probably trying to dump a problem child on you. Oh, wait, all used car owners are honest, right? They wouldn't lie to you. They wouldn't NOT disclose the amount of block weld or oil sealant or "fix it all in a can" they poured in to sell it, right?
right?
#3
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rebuilt motors are ok, but like stated above ask for references or paper work if they say owe well I did it myself be careful teh ywill go by 1015 miles and that is lucky!
good luck!
good luck!
#4
don't race, don't need to
HEY!! I'M doing it myself!! But MANY pictures will be taken, and ALL receipts are kept.
But... ummm... anyone want to buy a used RX-7 with a BRAND NEW ENGINE!!!!????
I'm kidding. I think.... sigh.
But... ummm... anyone want to buy a used RX-7 with a BRAND NEW ENGINE!!!!????
I'm kidding. I think.... sigh.
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Thanks everyone. I'll ask for some hard info/paperwork to show proof if I go towards the rebuilt engine/title route (which is what I'm leaning towards). Currently, I'm still doing some research and reading up on some buying FAQs (O-rings, apexi seals, white smoke, etc.) and taking recommendations from other Rotary fans such as you guys/ladies. I'll keep everyone posted on my project car!
Thanks again, Tim.
Thanks again, Tim.
#6
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Um, if you want original, I would definatly have it checked out by someone in your area who knows something about rotary.
Last thing you want to do is buy one and blow the engine at 57k like myself =/
Last thing you want to do is buy one and blow the engine at 57k like myself =/
#7
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Originally posted by Kiflin
Um, if you want original, I would definatly have it checked out by someone in your area who knows something about rotary.
Last thing you want to do is buy one and blow the engine at 57k like myself =/
Um, if you want original, I would definatly have it checked out by someone in your area who knows something about rotary.
Last thing you want to do is buy one and blow the engine at 57k like myself =/
Thanks a lot. Yeah, that'd be great if you/anyone can help me out w/ some dealers currently has one for sell. Actually, I've been actively looking around where I live and there is an RX-7 specialist repair/maintence shop downtown. When I drive pass it..I usually see the 1st and 2nd generations. Occassionally, I see 3rd gens. I'm thinking about stoppin' by soon asking them some questions and experiences in working w/ the 3rd Gens.
BTW, it must have been real bad news when your engine blew. How did you go along w/ the problem..rebuilt? Purchased new one? I read it's expected around the 60K mark on average.
Thanks,
Tim
Last edited by JedahZero; 04-22-03 at 08:48 PM.
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#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
I bought mine with orignial motor....If it's high mileage (I consider 70+ high) then I would seek out something with a rebuilt motor...preferably rebuilt by a reputable builder like Rx7.com, Pinaple Racing, Pettit, bla, bla, and you get it right? Otherwise, if you do get it with the original engie, get the compression checked before you buy...If your numbers are lower than 8s then factor the cost of a rebuild into the price of the car...
Good luck!
Good luck!
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