Burned Wire Near Turbos
#1
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Burned Wire Near Turbos
My brother and I put the car up on the lift to install the downpipe. While looking around we saw a wire that was right near the turbos and precat that was totally fried. I don't think it belongs there and may have fallen from somewhere. It goes from up behind the ABS down next to the turbos and it looks like it goes into the passenger wheel well. I didn't take a picture but I can get one maybe this week or next weekend when I go back to get the car. Any idea of what this is? We tucked it behind the AC lines to move it out of the way while doing the downpipe. We ended up not finishing because of time but I'd like to fix it before driving it again.
#5
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
As others have said, that is most likely the wire for the ABS right front wheel speed sensor. If your ABS system is still working (ABS light on the dash goes dark after all idiot lights illuminate for self test when you key on?), the wire itself is probably fine - the crispy & crumbly looking stuff you're seeing on that wire is the additional thermal insulation that came from the factory. You can protect that wire from further heat damage by wrapping it with some thermal insulation, similar to this stuff: https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...-and-Loop-Seam
The other thing you can do is try to tuck & clip it as far away from the turbo as you possibly can.
The other thing you can do is try to tuck & clip it as far away from the turbo as you possibly can.
#6
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My brother figured it was the ABS but I wanted to make sure. We tucked it away from the heat. I'll look into the thermal wrap for it. DP is ceramic coated inside and out from Pettit
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#10
rotorhead
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just a bare metal downpipe with no heat shield or coating or anything causes all sorts of these thermal issues like hot floor boards. It's one of the reasons I switched from the USDM pre cat downpipe to the JDM catless downpipe. It doesn't flow as well as the aftermarket units but it has OEM heat shields.
#11
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Does anybody else have a ceramic coated Pettit DP? I only ask because the coating seemed to be very thin. So thin that some of it came off during install when it would rub on the car to get the correct placement, also my underhood temps don't seem to be any different. There is no dramatic difference like everyone states. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems like it is a high temp paint and not actual ceramic coating.
#12
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
The heat coating I’m familiar with is hard, doesn’t chip easily and doesn’t rub off. Not sure what you got.
FWIW, DEI and others offer a high-temp ceramic sealant…paint. If prepped properly it sticks well. I’ve used it on the stock turbo heat shields and as a coating on my mild steel DP before header-wrapping it and then sealing the wrap with the same stuff. Kinda sounds like what your describing.
FWIW, DEI and others offer a high-temp ceramic sealant…paint. If prepped properly it sticks well. I’ve used it on the stock turbo heat shields and as a coating on my mild steel DP before header-wrapping it and then sealing the wrap with the same stuff. Kinda sounds like what your describing.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 07-22-21 at 11:52 AM.
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GoodfellaFD3S (07-22-21)
#14
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Thread Starter
The heat coating I’m familiar with is hard, doesn’t chip easily and doesn’t rub off. Not sure what you got.
FWIW, DEI and others offer a high-temp ceramic sealant…paint. If prepped properly it sticks well. I’ve used it on the stock turbo heat shields and as a coating on my mild steel DP before header-wrapping it and then sealing the wrap with the same stuff. Kinda sounds like what your describing.
FWIW, DEI and others offer a high-temp ceramic sealant…paint. If prepped properly it sticks well. I’ve used it on the stock turbo heat shields and as a coating on my mild steel DP before header-wrapping it and then sealing the wrap with the same stuff. Kinda sounds like what your describing.
#16
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Agree. Taking it off is a lot more work. It’s a little fiddly but you can wrap it on the car.
FWIW I never cared for those stainless zip-ties DEI sells. I just bought a couple good quality stainless hose clamps, folded the end of the wrap to a point, and with the flaps of the point against the DP went around once before anchoring the upstream side with the clamp. It gave me nice clean ends with no fraying.
Wear safety glasses and if your hands are sensitive and not calloused maybe some rubber gloves.
FWIW I never cared for those stainless zip-ties DEI sells. I just bought a couple good quality stainless hose clamps, folded the end of the wrap to a point, and with the flaps of the point against the DP went around once before anchoring the upstream side with the clamp. It gave me nice clean ends with no fraying.
Wear safety glasses and if your hands are sensitive and not calloused maybe some rubber gloves.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 07-22-21 at 04:43 PM.
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