To start off, I know this topic has been covered a few times and I have read as many threads as I could. However still unsure what to do next.

I pulled the EGI fuse, removed the 2 trailing spark plugs, poured a little oil in the housing and loosened the oil filter. I cranked the car 6 or 7 times for 10 seconds at a time and still no pressure. When I loosened the oil filter I got a huge puddle under my car. I'm assuming oil is circulating through the engine since it's reaching the pedestal. Why does my Guage still show no pressure?

Is there a way to test the guage/sender unit? Should I just start the car and see if it builds pressure? The engine was assembled with lots of assembly lube but I read cranking it too much will remove the lube.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

The stock oil pressure senders are notorious for plugging the small opening and reading low or no pressure. I have had this issue twice. Both times I cleaned mine with carb cleaner and compressed air and got good results (proper readings).

 

Honestly, there's no need. Fire the engine off and watch the oil pressure gauge to make sure it shoots up. If you have an OEM oiling system and you tightened everything correctly you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Instead concentrate on bleeding the air out of your coolant system and getting the proper idle sorted

P.S.-- I do make it a habit to crank with EGI out and a jumper on the battery (but all plugs in and um, oil filter quite tight) to build oil pressure, three or four times at 10 seconds a shot. Again, not necessary really. Not sure where you were reading about the other stuff.

 

Thanks I'm probably just going to start it up, but I'm going to do what you recommended before I start the car just incase it is blocked and I panic because it's reading 0 pressure while the car is running

 

Alright I will give it a shot this weekend, thanks for the advice, and I do have the proper coolant funnel which gives me one less thing to worry about haha.

One last thing should the pressure build up instantly or within 5 seconds or so?

Forums are great but sometimes the more you read the more confused and anxious you become lol

 

If you crank the engine w/o the EGI in place you should it build almost as fast as under normal starting, i.e. within a second or two. If not it's probably your oil pressure sender and/or the connection.
First starts usually result in a lot of smoke from assembly lube etc. Once started try to keep it going. I'd use a good set of used plugs and save the brand new set for after things have cleaned up.

 

You're cranking w/o the EGI fuse so that the oil pump can circulate oil everywhere. I'm not sure why you're trying to do this with the filter loose I'd guess that you're probably not seeing pressure in the system because you've opened up the system by partially removing the filter (seems like being confused about an inability to built boost pressure while intentionally removing clamps from your IC couplers..)

I wouldn't be too stressed about the assembly lube either. It's going to start burning off as soon as you fire the engine up. Just add some 2-stroke in there, crank it 5-6 times (at 10 seconds a crank) with the EGI out and the car being jumped, then fire it up as others have suggested.

I'd definitely let it idle for about an hour that first time as well (long enough to hit, and maintain, operating temperature) while checking for leaks and ensuring that it won't overheat under zero load.

Your heat cycles (full temp, full cold, 12-hours worth of a cycle) will go just about as far as mileage to ensure a good solid break in.

 

Thanks, I'm hoping that the pressure spikes when I start the car

 

At first I cranked it with the oil filter tightened, after no pressure from multiple cranks I read by loosening the filter you may see oil at the filter. By seeing oil there the bearings should also see oil right?

 

Based on this image, I'd say that the filter is one of the FIRST places to see oil as it travels through the system. So if you let it all dump out from there, then I'd guess you're not seeing it circulate properly.

 

It will probably take a good 20 seconds of cranking to build oil pressure. Remember, the whole oiling system is dry and empty, it's got to be filled up with oil again. A short 2-3 second crank, stopping, then another isn't going to do anything, you're going to need to crank on it for a good 10-20 seconds. Make sure the battery is healthy and maybe have a jump pack hooked up if you have a smaller than stock battery.

The starter can take it, don't worry about the starter.

In theory you don't NEED to do this but I think it's cheap insurance. Big thing for me is getting oil to the turbo's bearings so they're not spinning up dry. Also, it's a good way to make sure your oiling system is all good before you go for the actual start, if there is a problem you can stop and find it before the engine is full-on running.

Dale

 

Great pic, you are right just because I saw oil there doesn't mean it's okay.

 

Alright I'm going to give it one more shot before I attempt to start the motor. I've been cranking for about 10 seconds but I'll try for 20 seconds today. I would reaaally like it if I saw pressure before I started the motor so hopefully today I can see some

 

As mentioned, the starter is pretty robust and it might take a little more than 20 seconds of continuous cranking. Besides, the chances having REAL oil pressure problems are very low and we know oil is being pumped as far as the filter. The chances of having INDICATED oil pressure problems is common. Clean and tighten the spade connector at the sender. The pressure that the starter is going to generate on it's own is pretty low. That means a low signal which might not get thru a poor connection. Once the car (hopefully) starts you likely see pressure spike with rpm.

 

As Sgtblue suggested, I wouldn't be too concerned with the low indicated pressure just yet. That sensor is literally just connected to a single (if I remember correctly) wire that can ABSOLUTELY get brittle and fail. Hell, I've had to replace mine after some knucklehead previous owner (or maybe shop that I paid?) snapped the wire and "fixed" it by just twisting the wire together and putting some tape over it.

Don't stress too much over what's initially displayed on the dash. Just make sure everything is sealed up (whoever suggested you partially remove the filter needs to be fired! ), jump the battery to a running car, pull the EGI fuse and crank it 10-seconds at a time until you think its had enough. Once you think it's had enough 10 second cranks THEN go ahead and crank it 3-4 more times just to be safe. You will NOT hurt the engine by over priming the oiling system.


Be aware that all that cranking will cause draw on your battery though, I'd definitely hook up a jump box and/or a running car while you're doing it, and leave it hooked up (possibly both) when you put the EGI fuse back in and crank it for real. Realize that it may not fire up and purr immediately, you have to figure that your plugs may be fairly wet, you'll have lots of assembly lube and oil in there, etc., etc., etc.

 

Finally built pressure!! The Guage was reading 1.5 bar or about 22psi. I'm assuming this is as high as I am going to see from running just the starter motor. Not too sure if that is enough pressure but regardless thanks everyone for the help, I would have been lost other wise.

I had a leak from the oil cooler so I tightened the nuts and resolved the issue. I think it's safe to say the oil is running through the bearings now right lol?

 

22 on the starter is good. You should be in good shape now with everything having received some oil.

 

Yep. Just be ready for the battleship smoke-screen. If you have neighbors let them know so the fire department doesn't get called.

 

​​​​​​I have quite a few neighbors lol, I will let them know. Thanks again

 

Thanks Dave, I feel much better now knowimg I have Pressure

 

Pull EGI fuse, hold starter engaged for 15 seconds, let it rest 10 seconds, repeat twice more.

This is enough to build oil pressure on a new engine if nothing is wrong.

 

Per the factory service manual, raise the rpm to 3000 and you should have about 60 psi oil pressure.