Building oil pressure before starting
#1
Building oil pressure before starting
So I've been doing a lot of searching. Couldn't find much rotary specific, if I did it was mostly FC specific. I found a lot of info on SupraForums and HT.
There has been mixed answers but a lot actually lead to, "just start the car." But most topics usually are fresh complete rebuilds with assembly lube.
Anyways. Just finished my single turbo build; well enough for the initial start anyways. Its been about 1 year it has sat without oil.
I did not pull the engine apart or out, simply replaced parts.
Am I correct in thinking I should be pulling the EGI fuse and dry cranking the motor before actually starting it?
Does the motor even build oil pressure this way?
I have cranked it over for maybe 10 seconds now. Checked the filter and it's dry. Should I keep going until it finally builds pressure or start it up and squeeze my *** checks while I wait for response from the gauge?
Really wanted to check for line leaks before starting it.
Even worse it's on a rough base map on a newly aquired series 1 AEM so I can't even be sure it'll even idle.
Just looking for guidance from people with similar or previous experience.
Thanks.
There has been mixed answers but a lot actually lead to, "just start the car." But most topics usually are fresh complete rebuilds with assembly lube.
Anyways. Just finished my single turbo build; well enough for the initial start anyways. Its been about 1 year it has sat without oil.
I did not pull the engine apart or out, simply replaced parts.
Am I correct in thinking I should be pulling the EGI fuse and dry cranking the motor before actually starting it?
Does the motor even build oil pressure this way?
I have cranked it over for maybe 10 seconds now. Checked the filter and it's dry. Should I keep going until it finally builds pressure or start it up and squeeze my *** checks while I wait for response from the gauge?
Really wanted to check for line leaks before starting it.
Even worse it's on a rough base map on a newly aquired series 1 AEM so I can't even be sure it'll even idle.
Just looking for guidance from people with similar or previous experience.
Thanks.
#2
FD Daily
iTrader: (26)
Pull the spark plugs so you dont heat up the starter and stress the battery as much. You should be able to create at least 20psi of oil pressure this way.
The important part is being sure no fuel is being injected while priming...you can pull egi fuse or unplug the crank position sensors or unplug the fuel pump.
The important part is being sure no fuel is being injected while priming...you can pull egi fuse or unplug the crank position sensors or unplug the fuel pump.
#3
BadAss DoItYourselfer
iTrader: (9)
With some aftermarket ecu's such as the haltech,(not sure if thPFC has this function) there is a proceedure which cuts fuel to the engine while cranking in order to de-flood the engine. This is activated be giving 100% throttle while cranking. This function can also be used to build oil pressure before the engine actually fires.
#5
Pull the spark plugs so you dont heat up the starter and stress the battery as much. You should be able to create at least 20psi of oil pressure this way.
The important part is being sure no fuel is being injected while priming...you can pull egi fuse or unplug the crank position sensors or unplug the fuel pump.
The important part is being sure no fuel is being injected while priming...you can pull egi fuse or unplug the crank position sensors or unplug the fuel pump.
With some aftermarket ecu's such as the haltech,(not sure if thPFC has this function) there is a proceedure which cuts fuel to the engine while cranking in order to de-flood the engine. This is activated be giving 100% throttle while cranking. This function can also be used to build oil pressure before the engine actually fires.
Did exactly this and it worked! Thanks guys!
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stickmantijuana
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08-18-15 02:46 PM