3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Broken AST at 98,000 Miles

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-30-09, 06:54 AM
  #26  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
JM1FD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Mazda sold approx 13,000 FDs here in the U.S., not tens of thousands.
I'm aware of how many RX-7s came to the USA.

What you're implying is that Mazda only put ASTs on cars bound for the US market. I'm thinking they put them on every RX-7 ever built....
Old 01-30-09, 08:17 AM
  #27  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (83)
 
Supernaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 5,859
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
All this arguiing us useless. For around the price of a new plastic AST you can get an aluminum one. Why not do it?
Old 01-30-09, 08:31 AM
  #28  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,027
Received 876 Likes on 617 Posts
Originally Posted by Supernaut
Wow at that price, I really dont understand why you don't go aftermarket.
Not sure what exactly is included in the "kit", but as for the OEM turbo coolant hoses, they are pre-formed to fit. Even then, they're a minor PITA to replace with the motor in the car.
Old 01-30-09, 09:22 AM
  #29  
Full Member

iTrader: (3)
 
wickedywick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: RVA
Posts: 244
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Supernaut
All this arguiing us useless. For around the price of a new plastic AST you can get an aluminum one. Why not do it?
Maybe he just wants to replace things as he goes along and keep everything under the hood as OEM as he can.....you can look at like this too, why spend 100.00 or so on a aluminum one when you can just get rid of the AST all together
Old 01-30-09, 09:34 AM
  #30  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (2)
 
Rx72Heaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Supernaut
All this arguiing us useless. For around the price of a new plastic AST you can get an aluminum one. Why not do it?
Exactly. Its needed. Anyone who buys a Plastic AST new, to replace a Broken one, needs to check their priorities. If keeping their 7 running is one, then a new aftermarket AST is in need.
Old 01-30-09, 09:42 AM
  #31  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (83)
 
Supernaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 5,859
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
Well I have an AST in place so I dont have to worry as much about bubbles. Trust me, if I could I would be rid of it. I want to keep my car as STOCK as possible but I wont forego reliability. The only reason I can see for keeping things stock is for resale value and if thats the case, you can just replace the aftermarket part for the OEM one before you sell.
Old 01-30-09, 10:31 AM
  #32  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (2)
 
Rx72Heaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well any informed potential purchaser, would wonder why you didn't replace the AST. And second guess your knowledge and judgment in the FD and rotaries. At least i would.
Old 01-30-09, 10:44 AM
  #33  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,027
Received 876 Likes on 617 Posts
If a more novice owner had started this thread, all these comments about a metal AST might be warranted. But the OP is a long-time, experienced owner whose car is probably better taken care of than the majority. I'd venture to guess he knows the risks. While I might not agree with his choice, he has his reasons... and doesn't need the lecture. My .02.
Old 01-30-09, 11:15 AM
  #34  
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

iTrader: (14)
 
moconnor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,660
Received 82 Likes on 49 Posts
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
If a more novice owner had started this thread, all these comments about a metal AST might be warranted. But the OP is a long-time, experienced owner whose car is probably better taken care of than the majority. I'd venture to guess he knows the risks. While I might not agree with his choice, he has his reasons... and doesn't need the lecture. My .02.
Yes - but novice users may get the sense that there is some close level of debate here and that there are some valid reasons for keeping the plastic AST.
Old 01-30-09, 11:27 AM
  #35  
Original Gangster/Rotary!


iTrader: (213)
 
GoodfellaFD3S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Posts: 30,529
Received 539 Likes on 326 Posts
Bubbles? I've been running without an AST for years with no issues. We also delete them on customer's cars if that is what they want, and we still warranty the motor.
Old 01-30-09, 11:46 AM
  #36  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,027
Received 876 Likes on 617 Posts
Originally Posted by moconnor
Yes - but novice users may get the sense that there is some close level of debate here and that there are some valid reasons for keeping the plastic AST.
Not if they start with reading stickys and searching like they should. Besides, there are VERY FEW things are absolute/universal about these cars, because each owner brings a different set of priorities and uses. No accounting for stupidity if they make decisions on any of them after reading one thread.
Old 01-30-09, 11:49 AM
  #37  
Recovering Miataholic

Thread Starter
 
wstrohm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fountain Valley, CA
Posts: 1,533
Received 38 Likes on 26 Posts
If your temp gauge moves AT all, your engine is already dun-fer
This has happened twice during this car's lifetime, and it ain't dun-fer yet. Our rule is to pull it over and park it if temp goes up.
I'd venture to guess he knows the risks.
Thank you; I think I do. I lobbied for an aluminum AST to my wife (it's her car), but failed to convince her. She wants it as OEM as possible, and it's really her choice. I was lucky she accepted a Bonez downpipe and Viton hoses! Anyway, it was not possible to convince her that something which lasted 98K miles is an inherently defective item.
Old 01-30-09, 12:47 PM
  #38  
94 Single Turbo FD

 
Smitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i think the chance of losing an engine to a broken ast are pretty slim. its gonna crack and leak, not explode imediately draining your coolant system and overheating the engine.
Old 01-30-09, 01:14 PM
  #39  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (83)
 
Supernaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 5,859
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Bubbles? I've been running without an AST for years with no issues. We also delete them on customer's cars if that is what they want, and we still warranty the motor.
Come now, you've met me in person. You know how poor my car skills are and how lazy I am. For those that dont know, Im very lazy, and know nothing about cars except to let other people fix mine.
Old 01-30-09, 01:25 PM
  #40  
Don't worry be happy...

iTrader: (1)
 
Montego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,851
Received 792 Likes on 467 Posts
I PREFER THE OEM AST VS AFTERMARKET

Originally Posted by Rx72Heaven
Exactly. Its needed. Anyone who buys a Plastic AST new, to replace a Broken one, needs to check their priorities. If keeping their 7 running is one, then a new aftermarket AST is in need.
Not if you understand why the plastic one broke. Was it age or was the hose applying stress on the nipple? Two easily solved problems. Always make sure the AST is black (not green) and that the hoses are connected straight into the nipple(s), meaning not coming in at an angle thus creating stress on the connection.

Originally Posted by moconnor
Yes - but novice users may get the sense that there is some close level of debate here and that there are some valid reasons for keeping the plastic AST.
FYI most of people's "leaking coolant out of the over flow tank problem" is due to leaky aftermarket ASTs. Not a bad radiator cap, which is a band aid. The quality control just isn't there IMO that is why some get lucky and get good ASTs and some don't.


so to both of you: all I'm saying is that there are reasons why it isn't a bad idea to stick OEM.

Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Bubbles? I've been running without an AST for years with no issues. We also delete them on customer's cars if that is what they want, and we still warranty the motor.
+1 I'm currently taking steps to remove mine. Tired of dealing with the subpar quality aftermarket AST's, and always watching the OEM one. Burp the system correctly and don't look back.

M-

Last edited by Montego; 01-30-09 at 01:30 PM.
Old 01-30-09, 01:32 PM
  #41  
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

iTrader: (14)
 
moconnor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,660
Received 82 Likes on 49 Posts
Originally Posted by wstrohm
Anyway, it was not possible to convince her that something which lasted 98K miles is an inherently defective item.
So, if I told her that I had a relative who smoked 2 packets of cigarettes per day and lived into their 90s would she conclude that smoking was not dangerous? Making conclusions based on outliers is not a good idea.

It is pretty common, for example, for people on this board with 100k mile+ original engines to attribute its longevity to their superior maintenance skills that - whereas it should be pretty clear that they got lucky.
Old 01-30-09, 02:05 PM
  #42  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (2)
 
Rx72Heaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Smitter
i think the chance of losing an engine to a broken ast are pretty slim. its gonna crack and leak, not explode imediately draining your coolant system and overheating the engine.
I agree, but some people dont watch their gauges carefully, and might not notice your engine overheating. i would suspect some one who buys a OEM AST, that are prone to cracking and leaking, might be one to not to watch their gauges carefully.

Not saying the OP dosent know anything, just saying, that the majority of FD owners, know the risks of owning a rotary, and why put it in more jeopardy then you need to?
Old 01-30-09, 02:29 PM
  #43  
94 Single Turbo FD

 
Smitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Rx72Heaven
I agree, but some people dont watch their gauges carefully, and might not notice your engine overheating. i would suspect some one who buys a OEM AST, that are prone to cracking and leaking, might be one to not to watch their gauges carefully.

Not saying the OP dosent know anything, just saying, that the majority of FD owners, know the risks of owning a rotary, and why put it in more jeopardy then you need to?
The low coolant alarm would sound long before enough coolant has been lost to overheat the engine, steam and a burning coolant smell would also likely be present. not to mention there would be a pool of coolant underneath the car while parked.
Old 01-30-09, 02:42 PM
  #44  
Full Member

iTrader: (3)
 
wickedywick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: RVA
Posts: 244
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
ok i think we all get the point
Old 01-30-09, 02:46 PM
  #45  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (2)
 
Rx72Heaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Smitter
The low coolant alarm would sound long before enough coolant has been lost to overheat the engine, steam and a burning coolant smell would also likely be present. not to mention there would be a pool of coolant underneath the car while parked.
I agree, but we have all heard those stories, about "Coolant light was on, but i thought i would just drive it home". Im just saying,m taking precautions isnt a bad thing, and how hard is it to dish our 20 moe dollars to limit the things that could go wrong )Stock AST to Aftermarket one is $20.
Old 01-30-09, 09:35 PM
  #46  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
GARCO MOTORWORKS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: next to the polishing wheel!!!
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Goodfellafd3s ,good point . I deleat them on customers cars with no problems reported .

Last edited by GARCO MOTORWORKS; 01-30-09 at 09:39 PM. Reason: Add a statment
Old 01-31-09, 08:06 PM
  #47  
Recovering Miataholic

Thread Starter
 
wstrohm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fountain Valley, CA
Posts: 1,533
Received 38 Likes on 26 Posts
Installed the new AST today. It is a N3A1-15-35XB, which looks identical except for the printed numbers on the side to the -35XA that broke. Color is maybe a little blacker, but not much. The new unit went in with no trouble at all. Refilling the coolant is time-consuming; don't know when all the air will finally be out of the system. If/when this one breaks I will offer to all who recommended the aluminum aftermarket units.
Old 02-01-09, 01:20 PM
  #48  
needs more track time

iTrader: (16)
 
gracer7-rx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bay Area CA
Posts: 9,204
Received 513 Likes on 352 Posts
It should last a while. Other than temps, the AST is not a highly stressed part. It just sees a lot of temp changes and pressure from the coolant system being pressurized while running.

Automakers have been steadily making as many parts out of plastic as they can. If you think the Mazda AST was a bad decision, think about the fact that BMW makes their waterpumps out of plastic. They usually break at 50k miles.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sYnth.
Build Threads
0
08-19-15 06:27 PM



Quick Reply: Broken AST at 98,000 Miles



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:16 PM.