The car had original vacuum lines and most of them were dry hard and some cracked.

unfortunately when I pulled on one of the line the nipple complete broke off from one of the sensors! It’s the one right under the UIM has two nipples and lines and two sensors connected. Can this be replaced decently inexpensive? I don’t think I can fix this or delete this part right? 😑😫

This is the nipple that broke off.. And the hose w the broken piece 😑😫

Do u guys know what that one empty vacuum port without the hose is connected to? It was open like that..

 

Looks like you broke the nipple on the boost controller solenoid. The open hard pipe I believe is only for automatic transmission use.

 

You'll need to replace the solenoid. Best way to get the hose off w/o breaking is to slit the hose lengthwise.

 

Yep, that's the boost control solenoid. They come as a pair. Should be pretty easy/cheap to get used, lots of guys remove those.

Pro tip for removing baked vacuum lines - get a candle lighter, the long ones that you light candles at a birthday party with. Use the flame to heat up the end of the hose where it connects to the nipple and it will come off much easier. Some you can (as stated) use an X-Acto knife to slit, I would do that after heating it up.

Also, if the hose is in position and it's fine, LEAVE IT. It's VERY easy to break the nipples off. A solid hose isn't leaking or causing any problems, just leave it be.

Dale

 

Ah ok thanks! The open metal port is just left open then? It’s for auto?

Where’s a good source for this boost solenoid? eBay doesn’t seem to have it.. they have one I’m not sure if it’s the right part but it’s n3f1-18-211 and it’s over $400 shipped 😳😳
can I delete this all together? Is it just for the stock twins and can I replace it with another after market boost controller?

thanks guys for the tips on taking off hoses will def try that

 

You broke a nipple off a very important OEM sequential twin turbo solenoid.
You need to use the FAQ section of the 3rd gen forum for the [vacuum hose diagram] / [boost controller] in order to cheaply replace it with aftermarket components.
If you have to dig in further under the intake manifold, you're gonna spend $$$ regardless.
OEM Mazda parts is the way, especially with sequential twins.

 

Ok sucks but yeah took off the uim finally! But yes looks like a few more plastic nipples broke off! Without even pulling on anything.. it’s the three vacuum lines closest to the throttle body and by the oil filler.
to get rid of the “rats nest” you have to go single right? I mean to keep the stock twins you need to keep all those vacuum lines in tact in order?


Is this the correct way to have the filter facing??? Isn’t the arrow suppose to be pointing Up to the solenoid?





New vacuum lines!

 

The filter for the MAP sensor is installed properly. That's fine. I would replace those lines with silicone as that's a key sensor - if that pops off, the car will run VERY bad.

I have some spare boost control solenoids, I'll PM you about it.

Just leave the rat's nest as-is as much as possible for now. If you try and mess around with it or remove/simplify it it's an easy way to end up with tons of funky problems. You're still relatively new to the car, just keep it simple for now. Trying to simplify it or something won't get you anything.

Dale

 

If you do end up needing to pull the rats nest out for something else, or you just decide to replace all the lines:

1. Print out a color coded stock vacuum routing chart
2. Any time you disconnect a line first find it on the chart
3. Label it very clearly. I put a tag on each one using masking tape and wrote a number on the tag that was the order I took the line off. I also labelled the line on the chart with this number
4. Take several pictures that clearly show your tag, the line, and where it connects to things.
Optional. I used many small color coded zip ties that I would attach to each nipple the line was on. You don't have enough colors for the number of lines on the nest, but you should have enough that combined with your pictures and line tags to leave a very clear backup trail of which nipples the lines run between. Plus the bright colors will stand out and keep you from forgetting to connect some of the weirder lines as you re-assemble.
5. Rinse and repeat

A little tedious, but if you do that you shouldn't make any mistakes and putting things back together should be fairly simple. I pulled mine and did a hose job + new solenoids fairly soon after getting my RX7 and got everything right the first time. If I could do it, I think probably anyone can if they do something similar to above and just have a lot of patience and take their time.

 

If you're in it for a penny.... I recommend checking all your solenoids and actuators (both cold and more importantly hot). Bet some are toast given the condition of what i'm seeing, esp if you were having some driveability issues

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-stuff-802060/

And get Dale's viton check valves

 

Ok sounds good guys thanks so much for the useful tips and directions! I will probably do just that. Leave the ears nest alone as much as possible. If I could maybe try checking the solenoids and vacuum lines per that test.
seems like changing the coil wires is definitely easy w it all off now?
good to know the map sensor filter was pointed the right way.. that’s how I will point dales check valves also.
More than likely the lines, check valves and solenoids have never been replaced or changed.
sjould do that now and have patience.

the good news is the compression read 107-115 in both rotors. And not smoking up on start up so hopefully no rebuild necessary (that the prev owner said it might be a possibility?)

 

I don't know if I'd go full ham with checking all the solenoids and everything at this point. Replace the damaged vacuum lines, install the new check valves, and get it going.

Dale

 

Let the fun begin. Dale - I think we’ve read everything you’ve ever posted on this rat nest. Wish these two first time rotary owners well!

Looking for leaking fuel injectors and FPD. along the way 🤞 .

 

nice! Where did you get that vacuum diagram? is the r1 and touring the same pretty much?
that diagram still looks insane to even look at lol

 

So I probably started off on the wrong foot. I didn’t have a vacuum diagram and kind of missed /forgot A few of the vacuum line placements.
Do you guys know or remember if off of the UIM near the throttle body there are those few ports. Do they all have check valves? Here are a few pics and some of them you can see have cracked plastic nipple pieces in them 😬☹️
As dale says I am gonna leave the rats nest alone if it Still looks In place...


Is this correct coming off the ports?

The one vacuum port that is off..? Goes to?

What does this sensor (w the missing wires) do? Idle control valve? The car def had idle problems.. and the wires were complete off as you’ll see in the other pic! Does it matter which wire goes to which? Polarity?

Here are the two wires that must have come loose and was disconnected from that white plug.. does it matter the polarity how I put them back in the white plug?

 

Ok I believe I found the vacuum diagram To follow? This should help a bit To trace back 😬😅

 

It's honestly not too bad once you dig in, it'll start making sense as you go

The only difficult part is leaning over the engine bay. I had the luxury of doing it on a table and then on the engine stand during a rebuild.


It may look like a mess, but it will make sense!


Just take your time and label what you can, if you do a good job with good quality silicone hose, viton check valves and 75+ small cable ties, you shouldn't ever need to touch it again.

Just make sure to blow into the check valve ends to make sure you're installing them the right way.

 

At the top of the forum is the sticky with the vacuum diagrams. Save that file to a USB thumb drive, take it to Kinko's, have them print it in color on an 11x17 sheet and laminate it. Should only cost a few bucks.

At that size and with the lamination to protect it it makes it MUCH easier to track down which line goes where. Just step through each one and you'll be fine.

Dale

 

How important is that filter going to the map sensor?

 

I'm not sure what would happen if it's not there. I think it's mainly to smooth the signal the MAP sensor gets.

Dale

 

Hmmm, I've been running without one since I got the car....now with everything new I am trying to make damn sure it is all good. Sorry not trying to hijack the thread.

 

Dale you are correct. I just got off the phone with a "guru" (guru other than you) and he said it is not a filter, it acts like a damper smoothing out the signal.

 

Wires came off this white clip (idle control valve?)

The two wires I would guess that came off the idle control valve white clip? Does it matter which wire goes in which side? On that white clip

This is a closed up pic of the broken plastic nipple off of this black solenoid of some sort?

So I discovered an additional cracked nippled and the bottom one is in the rats nest... and the top one is from the black solenoid. Is this salvageable?? Thanks guys

 

No need for panic mate, it should be all ok.

The wires look like they've just come out of the white plug, disconnect it and press them back in.

Which side does matter, download the 1993 wiring diagram and look over pages Z-28 to Z-32

Judging by the pictures, you're pretty much already on the way disconnecting the hard line rack, look for any lines connected to the Lower Intake Manifold (LIM) and remove them, unbolt the coil rack, disconnect the solenoids from the engine harness and 2 more bolts will have it out.

No need to worry about some of the solenoid rear nipples being broken, not all of them are used (Only 2 if I remember rightly). If it's not required on the diagram, you can use a soldering iron or heat gun to close it off.

Here's a picture of my EGR solenoid (D on the vaccum diagram), the front top broke off but the rear nipple isn't required. (It's out because I don't have an EGR anyway).

 

The ISC's wires actually don't matter which one goes to which hole. I would just see which way the wiring wants to lay and plug it in like that. Remove the white shell from the ISC, pop in the two terminals (they only go in 1 way) and you're good.

Looking at the vacuum diagram, the 2 solenoids that are broken are G and H - one is for the double throttle, one is for charge control. For now I'd replace both with unbroken ones. Long term you don't really need double throttle but just leave it in the system.

I disagree with Axton, you aren't anywhere close to removing the rack. Replace the broken solenoids, get new vacuum lines on where they need to be, and get things buttoned back up. Removing the whole rack involves all the electrical connectors, the fuel rail, coolant lines, fuel lines....it's a mess and there's LOTS of things that can go wrong.

Dale