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Brand new rebuild - BLOWN? HELP!

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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 10:23 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Wompa164
Hey guys,

I'm hoping it might be a stuck injector (or injectors). The car has 104,xxx miles and I'm not sure the primary injectors have ever been cleaned or replaced, so we'll see in a few days.

The car also starts perfectly, warm or cold. I noticed the threads of my plugs on one of my rotors were thinly coated in oil when I pulled them out. Could that be because the OMP is injecting oil which is not getting combusted (no fuel) and just sloshing around inside the housing?

Whatcha guys think?
Wait, so you had an engine job done and they failed to recommend injector cleaning/new injectors on a car with 104,000 miles on the clock? I'd be concerned about what else they might have missed, that one is a no-brainer with these cars......
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:33 AM
  #27  
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The injectors were never cleaned by me and I didn't see it on the spread sheet that the previous owner gave me.

If you kept the 1300's, they were brand new 850's bored out to 1300. I didn't want to chance old 850's since all the so called horror stories of 1300's blowing engines. I don't believe that's the cause but better to be safe than sorry!
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 11:55 AM
  #28  
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Injectors are a HUGE priority. My car has 102k on the clock and the injectors appear to have not been a cause of the failure at all, but I am still going to service/replace them. other things: Spark plugs and wires. Would you replace an engine without doing such minor things to ensure proper operation? What if your last engine failure was contributed to by a drippipng injector? You would be subjecting the new engine to the exact same conditions as before. Go through and spend the extra money to have a reliable engine bay.

Reliability takes the whole engine bay, not just the engine.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 03:32 PM
  #29  
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I know it is off topic but things I replaced when putting a USED engine in my car:
Cleaned Injectors
New L1/2Coil Low Mileage T1/2 coils (16km)
New wiring harness
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug wires
Fuel Pump
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:23 PM
  #30  
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One thing not mentioned is to check for codes, the CE light does not have to be lit up in order to store a malfunction. Check for any codes, then just for the hell of it, reset the ECU and eliminate that step. Compression check follows that.


good luck
tom
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 12:31 AM
  #31  
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Bad news.

Did a compression test tonight - front rotor checked out fine. Rear rotor showed only 2 of 3 needle bounces :\

This ******* sucks. I guess I'll be calling my engine builder tomorrow to ask what the hell is up.

The weird thing is that sometimes the car randomly runs pretty smooth - you'd hardly know anything is wrong. I'm praying at this point that it's a stuck/sticky seal and that I didn't chuck a seal through my BRAND NEW GT35r.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 08:08 AM
  #32  
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Ouch!

Sorry to hear that. Still have my fingers crossed for you!

Dave
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #33  
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Thumbs up what he said!

If you don't do most of these things, it can get VERY EXPENSIVE.

Originally Posted by dradon03
I know it is off topic but things I replaced when putting a USED engine in my car:
Cleaned Injectors
New L1/2Coil Low Mileage T1/2 coils (16km)
New wiring harness
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug wires
Fuel Pump
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:00 AM
  #34  
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^

That's supposed to mean I am doing something right or doing everything wrong?
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:56 AM
  #35  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by dradon03
^

That's supposed to mean I am doing something right or doing everything wrong?
He's agreeing with you
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 01:08 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Wompa164
Bad news.

Did a compression test tonight - front rotor checked out fine. Rear rotor showed only 2 of 3 needle bounces :\

This ******* sucks. I guess I'll be calling my engine builder tomorrow to ask what the hell is up.

The weird thing is that sometimes the car randomly runs pretty smooth - you'd hardly know anything is wrong. I'm praying at this point that it's a stuck/sticky seal and that I didn't chuck a seal through my BRAND NEW GT35r.

Sorry to hear of the bad luck. I hope he stands behind the build. Good luck!
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 01:13 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Wompa164
Bad news.

Did a compression test tonight - front rotor checked out fine. Rear rotor showed only 2 of 3 needle bounces :\

This ******* sucks. I guess I'll be calling my engine builder tomorrow to ask what the hell is up.

The weird thing is that sometimes the car randomly runs pretty smooth - you'd hardly know anything is wrong. I'm praying at this point that it's a stuck/sticky seal and that I didn't chuck a seal through my BRAND NEW GT35r.
Sounds like it may be a stuck side seal. Run some water or mmo through the small nipple on the back passenger side of the UIM while you rev the car to 3kish rpm to suck it all in.
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Old May 2, 2007 | 07:54 AM
  #38  
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Wompa, so based on your post in the parts fs section Marvelspeed screwed you? Wish you would have went to Gotham
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Old May 2, 2007 | 08:30 AM
  #39  
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keep us posted as to the actual problem and what they are going to do about it.
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Old May 2, 2007 | 06:18 PM
  #40  
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That's too bad. Don built my motor and it has been pretty solid. I used to recklessly run about 19-20psi on it too when it was an auto. Sometimes it would spike between shifts to 26-28 psi. I developed some of the symptoms you are describing more than a year ago, after showing off for a friend. On the plus side he now has a lifelong desire for an FD. On the minus I lost some vac, and it lopes at idle like it has a huge streetport. When I had the 5 speed swap I took it to Gotham. I asked Steve about it. Basically he said as long as the car is running I wouldn't worry about it. You might as well drive it until it quits (my paraphrasing). I know I will need a rebuild soon, but it just won't die. I beat on it pretty hard too. For that reason I was thinking of going back to Don, but your story gives me pause. What did he say?
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Old May 24, 2007 | 10:34 PM
  #41  
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+1 on getting screwed, he overported my motor and it was chipping side seals. I'm working on rebuild #3, and of course am getting the irons ported again by BDC this time around. Did you ever get in touch with him?
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Old May 26, 2007 | 12:14 AM
  #42  
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Sounds like there should be some posts in the 'bad guy' section, otherwise people will keep going to him.....
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #43  
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You know, Don has always had a warranty on his motors...I had one on mine, no extra fee. He wouldn't help you out? I am really finding this hard to believe.
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 12:06 PM
  #44  
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Screw that ,i'd be taking someone to court over something like this. People think they can just **** whoever they want and get away with it and it makes me sick the thousands of dollars that people steal or rip off from each other all the time from bum parts, shotty work, or just flat out conned someone out of their hard earned money.

Sorry, I ******* hate people who rip others off deliberately.
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 12:27 PM
  #45  
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My theory is the motor was overported slightly, yielding a resut of part of one side seal breaking off.

B
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:41 AM
  #46  
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Yep, you nailed it.

My car is at Gotham right now. Don did a terrible job of porting the motor, which is ironic considering he used to be famous for his porting work.

The irons were overported and the ports seemed very rough along the edges. One of the side seals on my rear rotor was scraped away (a ton of shavings were found in my wastegate) and the seal completely snapped in half.

Don has avoided all of my calls after the incident and I haven't seen him since he built my motor. I've left him voicemails on his home number and he hasn't returned any calls, and has since closed down the shop.

Basically, Don fucked me. I've been a very loyal customer of his for 3+ years and I always had a great working relationship with him, but he really screwed me over bad this time.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:44 AM
  #47  
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jeez, that sucks man, at least you're in good hands now with gotham.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 07:09 AM
  #48  
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damn, sorry to hear about this. You really hate so see this kind of thing happen but it does nothing but good things for these builders out her like bdc with great reputation. Just weeding out the bad ones, thats all. One day we won't have to worry about htis kind of thing happening.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 07:36 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by hondahater
One day we won't have to worry about htis kind of thing happening.
You've got to be kidding! It's 2007, how long do you think it will take?
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 08:44 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Wompa164

The irons were overported and the ports seemed very rough along the edges. One of the side seals on my rear rotor was scraped away (a ton of shavings were found in my wastegate) and the seal completely snapped in half.


Well unfortunatly this is the risk that we take when ameatures build engines and port them uneccessarily. Your stock ports flow more than enough to handle the hp potential of a Gt-35 turbo. People need to realistically understand what hp goals they want to accomplish during a rebuild. The rew engine has stock porting that's plenty large enough to meet most peoples hp goals. Had I done the engine, I would have recommended just a port polish and port match of the lim. That would have been plenty or that turbo.
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