we replaced the pads on both sides of the front...

-old pads off, pushed the calipers back in with a piece of wood and c clamps
-new pads on after quick clean with brake kleen on the pads and rotors
-caliper back on
-pulled the caliper pins, cleaned with brake kleen and then put a bit of never seize on them, put them back in

did that on both sides

went to bleed the brakes, my buddy accidentally left the cap off the master cylinder, so i filled the master cylinder up with clean fluid and put the cap back on

got some hose,
cracked the bleeder on the left side of the car(master cylinder is on the right, its right hand drive),
filled a bottle half full of clean fluid and submerged the hose in it

down... release... tighten bleeder... crack bleeder... down... release... tighten bleeder, repeat.

nothing... no fluid coming out

master cylinder level was lowering

and

small amount fluid coming out OPPOSITE side...

but not out the bleeder... like... out the caliper

can anyone please explain why? and this didnt happen before we worked on the brakes... the car drove fine and the brakes were fine.

 

Sounds like a blown seal in the caliper. You're very fortunate to discover it this way.

You can rebuild the caliper or buy a reman'd one.

Check your brake hoses for a leak too.

Dave

 

is having 2 piece calipers a mazda thing?

this is my friends car... i've only ever seen calipers that were one piece...

 

They're made that way for manufacturing purposes to allow for all the features to be machined.

I had a heck of a time bleeding my brakes and clutch last year. My car had been sitting for years. Even the rebuilt master gave me a hard time. If you do end up buying a rebuilt one, make sure you bench bleed it first. Pull the ABS units lines off and check for crud. As the seals in my master had deteriorated, there was a lot of crap in the ABS unit also. Work your way down to each wheel.

 

Fail.

You must screw the piston back into the caliper bore using a special tool. By forcing it with clamps you f'd it up. The proper procedure is described in the service manual.

 

That's for the rear. He did the fronts:

 

you would only need the special tool to screw in the rears. The fronts (at least thats what he said he was doing), once you open the bleed nut can be pushed back in by hand most of the time.

also - you should use brake grease not anti sieze on brake parts, and only on parts that are outlined in the fsm.

 

what would be the difference in using brake grease to never seize, i only used it on the slider pins.. if that helps my case at all

 

Permatex Anti-Seize (Part No. 133K) states on its container:

"Resists temperatures up to 2000°F"
"Use Permatex Anti-Seize on:
Brake Lube assembly & Anchor Pins"
(and a bunch of other stuff)

It also says:

"Not for use in lubrication of bearings, crankcases, or gearboxes."

It worked great on my 1990 Miata's rear brake slider pins (for over 15 years).

 

I was quoting from the Mazda Service manual, it says to use the SST (tool) on both front and rear. Caveat: I don't have Mazda brake calipers on my car, I never did a pad replacement with the stock calipers so I'll defer to those who have.

OP: did you at least open the bleed valve before compressing the pistons?

 

^^so if you dont have this tool then how do you screw in the piston?

 

You can buy one of these at just about any auto parts store:



instructions here:

http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/unde...ls/AMR450L.htm

 

You likely had tired seals on the front calipers, and pushing the calipers back in was the last straw on the seals. The seal kit I don't believe is too pricey, and it's not too bad to rebuild the calipers.

DO NOT take the bolts out that hold the 2 halves of the front calipers together! If you do, they will NEVER seal again. Remove the pistons, clean everything up, install new seals, put back together, and be done with it.

Dale