bov seep??
03-01-06, 09:24 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Stix37867
Have you either of you guys actually tested the stock BOV's. It's common sense that they open when it gets vaccum. But when i tested it with a pressure tester, as soon as the tester hit 8 or more psi, it was open. If you can try it, i suggest you do. I'd say Mazda made it like that as a secondary precaution like a pop off valve.
Edit: As for my statement about it only opening at 8psi, i figured it was implied that everyone nows it opens when it sees vacuum.
Edit: As for my statement about it only opening at 8psi, i figured it was implied that everyone nows it opens when it sees vacuum.
03-01-06, 10:39 PM
#28
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how can i test the system for a bad bov? or boost leaks? would the old soap and water trick work. i plan on replacing the vac lines to the bovs 'cause they're hard and appear to be brittle. the car sat for a while before i bought it so i'm sure that i'll need to replace all the vac lines in the near furture. i'm sure that will be fun. i'll get my boost gauge installed within the next few days. i'm new to the turbo scene and i gues i picked the most difficult car to learn on. i'm greatful that you guys know so much, thanks.
03-01-06, 10:59 PM
#29
Originally Posted by neopj3
how can i test the system for a bad bov? or boost leaks?
03-01-06, 11:02 PM
#30
Originally Posted by JDawG707
ehh okay ill post some pics of my car.....i just want to kno what i should do for my CRV that MOOO's lol
some of u guys probably seen these B4
some of u guys probably seen these B4
Last edited by Bad_Karma7; 03-01-06 at 11:05 PM.
03-01-06, 11:07 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
The "Moo-ing" is most likely your air pump, use search for that fix. And get an air duct on that intercooler and a filter to the air pump! Some people's kids I tell ya.
also for the Mooing, it only happens until i step on the gas for boost or stay in low rpm's as 1k-2k or really high rpm's 4.5-7k....so not sure if its the airpump or the CRV....and i have a type-S BOV where the ABV was so its not that
Last edited by JDawG707; 03-01-06 at 11:13 PM.
03-01-06, 11:22 PM
#32
Oh, yeah air duct does a lot. Do you have an aftermarket ECU, are you keeping an eye on the Air temp reading? You should see a difference with and without air duct. Keeping charged air temp as low as possible will help prevent detonation not to mention a good boost in power.
My money's on the air pump, it engages in low rpms to I believe the 3K rpm range. If you have CRV vented to atmosphere, you should hear hissing/leaking sound until you hit higher RPMs in which the CRV shuts and allows second turbos to add boost.
My money's on the air pump, it engages in low rpms to I believe the 3K rpm range. If you have CRV vented to atmosphere, you should hear hissing/leaking sound until you hit higher RPMs in which the CRV shuts and allows second turbos to add boost.
03-01-06, 11:25 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
Oh, yeah air duct does a lot. Do you have an aftermarket ECU, are you keeping an eye on the Air temp reading? You should see a difference with and without air duct. Keeping charged air temp as low as possible will help prevent detonation not to mention a good boost in power.
My money's on the air pump, it engages in low rpms to I believe the 3K rpm range. If you have CRV vented to atmosphere, you should hear hissing/leaking sound until you hit higher RPMs in which the CRV shuts and allows second turbos to add boost.
My money's on the air pump, it engages in low rpms to I believe the 3K rpm range. If you have CRV vented to atmosphere, you should hear hissing/leaking sound until you hit higher RPMs in which the CRV shuts and allows second turbos to add boost.
03-01-06, 11:28 PM
#34
Originally Posted by JDawG707
damn so i got both makn annoying noise lol.....but yeah stock ecu and i do look at the temp gauge...it stays in middle even after pushing it for a lil bit....but i got primary boost problems tryn to get that fixed...primary boost is only 6lb's
03-01-06, 11:35 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
I'm confused, if you have stock ECU, what temp guage are you looking at? Did you test if your secondaries are coming online? If I remember correctly, you need the primaries to at least create 8lbs of boost to get your secondaries online.
03-01-06, 11:36 PM
#36
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You need an aftermarket temp gauge, or linearize the stock one.
The first thing is to worry about the primary turbo. Until that one is working properly, forget about the second one.
Read this
The first thing is to worry about the primary turbo. Until that one is working properly, forget about the second one.
Read this
Last edited by quicksilver_rx7; 03-01-06 at 11:40 PM.
03-01-06, 11:40 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by quicksilver_rx7
You need an aftermarket temp gauge, or linearize the stock one.
The first thing is to worry about the primary turbo. Until that one is working properly, forget about the second one.
The first thing is to worry about the primary turbo. Until that one is working properly, forget about the second one.
03-01-06, 11:43 PM
#38
Originally Posted by JDawG707
stock ECU....temp gauge thats stock with the car LOL by the RPM gauge....nope im pushing 6LB's then drops to 5 during the switching of the two turbo's then jumps to 9-10LB's when the sendary kcicks in...checked vacume hoses(most of them)and couplers
Read the article that quicksilver_rx7 is pointing you to.
Last edited by Bad_Karma7; 03-01-06 at 11:46 PM.
03-01-06, 11:47 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
Temp that I was referring to is the Air intake temp. If you had a PFC it would tell you what the air temp is in your intake manifold. The temp guage that you're looking at is for the coolant.
Read the article that quicksilver_rx7 is pointing you to.
Read the article that quicksilver_rx7 is pointing you to.
03-01-06, 11:55 PM
#40
Originally Posted by JDawG707
o D= dont ahvn anything special....im tryn to save up moeny but it iwll take about 2months to get 1g....so im kind've behind....i need the 1g for a PFC so i guess ill just get someoen to help me out with my boost problems and then get the PFC and do the rest l8r
03-02-06, 12:01 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
PFC and commanders are selling used and new for around $600-$700. In the mean time, get a duct on that intercooler.
03-02-06, 12:18 AM
#42
Originally Posted by JDawG707
ill do it first thing tomorro morning....also tho...were can i get new PFC for 600-700? i ma need someone to hold it for me and il lbuy it off of them...it comes w/ base map too right? i was that extra 50HP base map =D
Here's a site where you can pick a new unit with commander for cheap. It's from Japan, but some people on this site have purchased there and had no problems. Get the standard PFC not the AP engineering one, it's going for 690 + shipping. Go here ---> http://www.jappartsspecialist.com/Electronic.htm
03-02-06, 04:15 PM
#43
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Well..... i figured out what i think happened and it WAS the y-pipe to the intercooler cuppler that blew off. it was so loose that i didn't have to loosen the clamps! but in order to inspect it completly, i took of the piping and the strut bar off, only to find that this little white "check valve" looking thing that broke off at the valve and that the vac line to it was dried out and cracked. it looks like it (the broken section) went in to a little plastic box near the throttle body. is this the pvc valve? i replaced the line and zip tied it back on. I am now convinced that I will replace all the vac lines soon. thanks for your help and insite.
03-02-06, 04:22 PM
#44
I can't tell which check valve/line you're talking about.
Using this diagram: http://www.davidgeesaman.com/rx7/93v...lor.edited.jpg, can you point out which line or valve it is?
......Unless, you have an automatic. Then this diagram doesn't show a couple things, you'll need this one instead: http://www.rx7guru.com/images/rx7vac...se_diagram.jpg
FWIW, only two check valves in that diagram work for the turbos: the black/green ones. The others are for various emissions stuff. But keep in mind people switch these valves around, so the colors of the valves may be different on your car.
Using this diagram: http://www.davidgeesaman.com/rx7/93v...lor.edited.jpg, can you point out which line or valve it is?
......Unless, you have an automatic. Then this diagram doesn't show a couple things, you'll need this one instead: http://www.rx7guru.com/images/rx7vac...se_diagram.jpg
FWIW, only two check valves in that diagram work for the turbos: the black/green ones. The others are for various emissions stuff. But keep in mind people switch these valves around, so the colors of the valves may be different on your car.
Last edited by dgeesaman; 03-02-06 at 04:32 PM.
03-02-06, 07:10 PM
#45
Only thing I can assume "little plastic box" is your pressure chamber. The vacuum chamber is lower and deeper in engine, didn't sound like you dug that far. That would be a huge factor in your boost issue. People have eliminated that pressure chamber when they go non-sequential.
03-02-06, 07:42 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by Stix37867
All the BOV knows to do is to start venting at 8psi. It shouldn't vent any other time.
What are you talking about ????? The BOV (CRV) only vents under vacuum. The (CCV) vents up to aprox 4500 rpm.
03-02-06, 08:58 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by JDawG707
is there anyway i can just plug up teh CRV? i have the same noise and its hella nnoying, ive somewhat learned how to drive with it(blast the music helal loud)
If you want to cut down on the venting noise you can place filters on the end of the hose comming out of the CRV and the CCV, it can still be heard without a radio playing but is much less noticable.
03-03-06, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
PFC and commanders are selling used and new for around $600-$700. In the mean time, get a duct on that intercooler.
03-03-06, 09:54 PM
#49
Originally Posted by JDawG707
i put back on my cooler duct, when i had the boost problem it was primary 6lbs, since then its at 8Lb's now, what else do u guys bleieve i have to do to get all 10lb's.
Last edited by Bad_Karma7; 03-03-06 at 10:00 PM.
03-03-06, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
Good to hear, the engine you saved may be your own. Did you read the trouble shooting guide? READ this article you'll learn a lot! http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm Oh, highly recommend getting a mytivac tester...worth it's weight in gold. Pretty soon we'll recoin that phrase "worth it's weight in rx7 parts"
also ive read alot about the boost stuff, ive tryed to figure it out but so far nothing, and i dont really have the tools to test vacume....
Last edited by JDawG707; 03-04-06 at 12:16 AM.