hey guys i need a little help on this annoying problem i got with my 93
sorry for the length lol

the car starts fine, theres little to no smoke, the car idles fine and everythng seems to be good.

After the car is warmed up and i drive the car, everything is good untill i get my rpms up and with the boost guage climing from negitive to 0, the car wants to chugg and spit. its almost like its cutting fuel once i show any sign of boost. now sumtimes the car runs fine good boost then after a while it will act up again. For example, today, i start the car warm it up take off and the car is boosting normal no problems, i drive maybe a mile down the road drop my girl off go to takeoff and once i hit about 4000-5000 rpm the car car chugs and farts. it drives fine when being easy on the throttle and the engine itself is fine just sumtimes when i give good throttle it has this issue ...... sometimes lol


I have a apex'i s-afc, hks evc boost controller, hks ssq blow off valve and intake

I read a minute ago that it could be that i have my boost set too low, i just took it out of three mouths storage so i wanted to keep the boost low for now. the problem sometimes lol happend last year but i thought is waz my battery cable i needed to replace it last year could it be a loose possitive battery cable ??

 

If anyone one has any opinions or where i can start checking it would be awsome just need some insight thanks

 

Mine was doing the same till I changed the spark plugs. Check those and see.

 

I was going to say fuel cut from your computer, but your apexi unit would illiminate that. Do you have a DP or the original stock down pipe? I only ask because if it was clogged you could have back pressure problems, but i doubt thats the issue. Check the basics first, plugs, wires, spark from your coils. Map sensor connection, any loose hose on the hot/cold side piping. Stuff like that. let us know what you find, or dont find. Everything with this car is a process fo elimination.

 

limpp modeee? turn the boost controller off and see what happens but if you have a stock ecu it might be going into limp mode.

 

ditch the damn safc and get a PFC

 

i will check all of that tommorow. I have new plugs but never changed the wires so i will check and change them. is there a spicific ignition/spark plug wire that i need?? the down pipe i think is original i do have a jasper exaust system but it was on the car when i imported it i will keep you guys up to date and i greatly appretiate any and all ideas thanks

 

Its the SAFC
Remember that the fd works with map and if you interface the map signal for more fuel you will get the car to the limp mode.
The S AFC works well for cars with MAF not MAP.
Buy a AEM or Haltech or something like that or send the ECU to Pettitracing and ask them to make an upgrade , uninstall the SAFC.

 

ive had the car for three years and the thing worked awsome so i dought its the safc. Its been in the car for about 8 years now with no problems. i drove the car today it happend once in the morning but the rest of the day there was no problems so maybe its just working out the bugs from having sitting for a couple months, the wires are tight and i have good ignition to the plugs so no problems there. its like somthing isint letting enough fule or air in the system when i let it go, so it boggs out. maybe electrical, my search is ongoing. keep the ideas comming. i might just bring her to mazdee's and have it checked out. another question is how do i turn my evc system off, theres a power button but it doesent shut off. if you cant tell i'm still learning how complicated this engine is and am slowly learniing how the b13 works.

 

ditch it anyways and remove one potential issue from the equation

 

drove the car all day no problems....wird

 

bov sticking open maybe....

 

the problem was that i was running not enougt boost, i turned down last year when i put her away, I finally checked my boost controller setting and guess what i was down at 2psi lol dumb *** all is perfect now thaks for your help and ideas i appreiciate

 

You wont be able to run 2 psi...
minimum is 7 psi as that is wastegate spring opening pressure.
cant go lower than that.

There is something else causing the problem.

 

well whatever it was its all good for now i put 1000 km and there hasent been any issues, i cant fix whats not broken right. my boost controller was set for 20 kps so once i turned it up, the issue dissapeared and the car boosts fine, so thats y i figuered it was set to low and it was confusing something in the car soo. If it happens again, its time to look into the issue a little further but for now its running perfect. i'll keep you guys posted if anything acts up. Im still learning and i keep reading older posts of simulor problems, and thanks for the insight