My Primary turbo quite working, after i tried to "attempt" to remove the air pump. I realized that the Napa belt wasn't going to work. I put it all back together and no boost. I check my work a few times. And Did some of the tests posted in the threads.
I could see my primary spooling freely, but its just not boosting under load. Please Someone give me an idea of what to do..
thanks
suleiman

BTW: i posted the same thing two days ago and got nothing at all.

 

GIVE MORE INFORMATION.
what "tests" you do?
what are you talking about your tryed to remove the Air pump, and the napa belt did not work?

 

I was trying to eliminate the air pump. I ordered a belt from napa and when it came the size wouldn't have worked. So i put everything back together and no boost.

1- I removed all the piping and hoses that were involved and checked to make sure they weren't cracked or loose. (still no boost)

2- I went a little further and removed everything even the Y pipe and nothing.

3- I did the test from (auto sport race tech) for the charge control solenoid. And The rod moved accordingly.

4- I even took the primary turbines cover and watched it spin freely when starting the car. And increasing in speed when revving.

Thats where I am at right now. Also both turbines spin freely by hand.

Any ideas.

 

My primary turbo was not working a few weeks ago when I decided to hook back up my sequential system. I followed the same info from auto sport race tech. My problem was my precontrol solenoid, it wasn't clicking. So I replaced it.

I also tested my precontrol actuator and my charge control valve, (brown BOV) for proper operation.

 

You see i don't have the correct tools to test for the BOV nor do i know of anyone around that has one. Is there another way to see if its working.

And also I didn't understand how to test for the actuators either. Would i have to re move the whole turbo system or could i just get to it from the top of the car with the removal of the correct parts.

thanks

 

You need a MityVac. They're about $35 to $50 dollars(supply vacuum readings), $75 for the silverline model (boost and vac readings). You can use the vac models you just have to switch the vac lines around. Most Auto parts stores sell them, Sometimes in a brake bleed kit (Autozone).

If you remove the Air pump, intake box and the cross over pipe you should be able to reach the actuator and vacuum lines. The precontrol and turbo control Solenoids are bolted to the front of the UIM. The FSM tells you how to test them as well as the CRV. ( I called it a CCV before.)

You will need to apply voltage to the solenoids to test them. There's a really handy tool that connects to the cars battery via alligator clips, and has a ground clip and a probe that you switch on to apply voltage.

 

thanks for the info i think i will try the testing the solenoid, Im going to try and see if i know someone that might have the tool your talking about for applying voltage to the soleniod...

thanks a mil

 

You can use a 9v battery to test the solenoids. No need to fiddle with a high-amp source like the car battery.

Dave