Boost Management / ECU Question? - 16PSI Stock Twins 4x 850cc Injectors
#27
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
Can you get away with using Water Injection per your auto-x regulations?
If so I would def look into that. I'd also think about adding a FPR, Twin Power, and Boost Controller.
I'm currently running a similar set-up to what you listed, pushing 1.1bar (16psi) at my higher setting with 850/850 injectors. Granted, I've got a FPR and have set the pressure up 10psi from stock. I'll see max of about 73%-75% IDC when I'm high in the RPM range @ 16psi. I don't remember exactly what AFR I'm running with this IDC, I've got the innovative LC-1, but was a retard and fucked up the Lambda sensor before getting everything associated with it wired in, so my current readings are all over the place (must replace that!). I know that I am running safe AFR's though, not leaning out or anything like that.
I would be leery of additional heat though... I'll regularly see temps at 40* celcius with a SMIC when I'm running 16psi. I've only really got on it once when I was running a pretty well modified Evo. My intake temps with the GReddy SMIC and modified stock IC Ducting hit 79* before we stopped playing. NOT COOL!
I don't claim to know more than anybody else on the forum. The guy that does my tuning for me is one of the best in my country, and water injection came highly recommended from him (got it, installing it and having my PFC re-tuned for it on the 10th, hopefully I'll pull a bit more power than I am now 325rwhp + 15-18% to compare with average US numbers).
If so I would def look into that. I'd also think about adding a FPR, Twin Power, and Boost Controller.
I'm currently running a similar set-up to what you listed, pushing 1.1bar (16psi) at my higher setting with 850/850 injectors. Granted, I've got a FPR and have set the pressure up 10psi from stock. I'll see max of about 73%-75% IDC when I'm high in the RPM range @ 16psi. I don't remember exactly what AFR I'm running with this IDC, I've got the innovative LC-1, but was a retard and fucked up the Lambda sensor before getting everything associated with it wired in, so my current readings are all over the place (must replace that!). I know that I am running safe AFR's though, not leaning out or anything like that.
I would be leery of additional heat though... I'll regularly see temps at 40* celcius with a SMIC when I'm running 16psi. I've only really got on it once when I was running a pretty well modified Evo. My intake temps with the GReddy SMIC and modified stock IC Ducting hit 79* before we stopped playing. NOT COOL!
I don't claim to know more than anybody else on the forum. The guy that does my tuning for me is one of the best in my country, and water injection came highly recommended from him (got it, installing it and having my PFC re-tuned for it on the 10th, hopefully I'll pull a bit more power than I am now 325rwhp + 15-18% to compare with average US numbers).
Last edited by fendamonky; 06-30-08 at 08:03 PM. Reason: added AFR bit
#28
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Can you get away with using Water Injection per your auto-x regulations?
If so I would def look into that. I'd also think about adding a FPR, Twin Power, and Boost Controller.
I'm currently running a similar set-up to what you listed, pushing 1.1bar (16psi) at my higher setting with 850/850 injectors. Granted, I've got a FPR and have set the pressure up 10psi from stock. I'll see max of about 73%-75% IDC when I'm high in the RPM range @ 16psi. I don't remember exactly what AFR I'm running with this IDC, I've got the innovative LC-1, but was a retard and fucked up the Lambda sensor before getting everything associated with it wired in, so my current readings are all over the place (must replace that!). I know that I am running safe AFR's though, not leaning out or anything like that.
I would be leery of additional heat though... I'll regularly see temps at 40* celcius with a SMIC when I'm running 16psi. I've only really got on it once when I was running a pretty well modified Evo. My intake temps with the GReddy SMIC and modified stock IC Ducting hit 79* before we stopped playing. NOT COOL!
I don't claim to know more than anybody else on the forum. The guy that does my tuning for me is one of the best in my country, and water injection came highly recommended from him (got it, installing it and having my PFC re-tuned for it on the 10th, hopefully I'll pull a bit more power than I am now 325rwhp + 15-18% to compare with average US numbers).
If so I would def look into that. I'd also think about adding a FPR, Twin Power, and Boost Controller.
I'm currently running a similar set-up to what you listed, pushing 1.1bar (16psi) at my higher setting with 850/850 injectors. Granted, I've got a FPR and have set the pressure up 10psi from stock. I'll see max of about 73%-75% IDC when I'm high in the RPM range @ 16psi. I don't remember exactly what AFR I'm running with this IDC, I've got the innovative LC-1, but was a retard and fucked up the Lambda sensor before getting everything associated with it wired in, so my current readings are all over the place (must replace that!). I know that I am running safe AFR's though, not leaning out or anything like that.
I would be leery of additional heat though... I'll regularly see temps at 40* celcius with a SMIC when I'm running 16psi. I've only really got on it once when I was running a pretty well modified Evo. My intake temps with the GReddy SMIC and modified stock IC Ducting hit 79* before we stopped playing. NOT COOL!
I don't claim to know more than anybody else on the forum. The guy that does my tuning for me is one of the best in my country, and water injection came highly recommended from him (got it, installing it and having my PFC re-tuned for it on the 10th, hopefully I'll pull a bit more power than I am now 325rwhp + 15-18% to compare with average US numbers).
40 degrees isnt bad at all in the summer. in fact thats pretty normal i think
def keep us up on how the water injection does and if there is a hp improvement.
#29
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
Yeah, the 40 deg is with regular driving though, I should have clarified that in my first post =\ When I put my foot down solidly the temp climbs fairly quickly, I tend to keep to my lower setting of .85 bar as a result. I really only hit up 1.1 if I wanna mess with somebody ^_^ Also gotta keep in mind that I'm in the UK and ambient temps around here are much more gentle.
Will certainly post an update on the results of the water injection though.
I know that a buddy of mine (m4drx on MRC and FDUK) who is currently running the same kit (Aquamist 1s) can put his foot down and go from 50*+ to mid/low 30's in about 20-30 seconds while using the stock IC. I think he's only at 13 or 14psi though. I can't remember exactly what he's running unfortunately =\
Will certainly post an update on the results of the water injection though.
I know that a buddy of mine (m4drx on MRC and FDUK) who is currently running the same kit (Aquamist 1s) can put his foot down and go from 50*+ to mid/low 30's in about 20-30 seconds while using the stock IC. I think he's only at 13 or 14psi though. I can't remember exactly what he's running unfortunately =\
Last edited by fendamonky; 06-30-08 at 08:49 PM.
#30
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Secondly, the PFC can be used to control boost, but based on my limited understanding, I wouldn't trust it to do it at those boost levels. I'd suggest an EBC to control the boost and then you could have two boost settings, one maxing out at 14 and another maxing out at 16. Frankly, if the idea is to save wear and tear on the turbo's, I'd consider having one setting with the max boost at 10-12 to use for street, then another setting for 16 to use for autocross. Again, someone please correct me if I'm missing something here.
#31
Rotary for life!
If I could ask a question.... My understanding is that the PFC maps fuel using rpm and boost as the two data points for the coordinates, ie boost is on the y axis and rpm is on the x axis of the grid. IIRC, the base map has boost going up to 18-20 psi. So given my limited understanding, it seems to me as if you only need one fuel and timing map, whether you want to run 14 max psi or 16 max psi. Am I wrong?
Secondly, the PFC can be used to control boost, but based on my limited understanding, I wouldn't trust it to do it at those boost levels. I'd suggest an EBC to control the boost and then you could have two boost settings, one maxing out at 14 and another maxing out at 16. Frankly, if the idea is to save wear and tear on the turbo's, I'd consider having one setting with the max boost at 10-12 to use for street, then another setting for 16 to use for autocross. Again, someone please correct me if I'm missing something here.
Secondly, the PFC can be used to control boost, but based on my limited understanding, I wouldn't trust it to do it at those boost levels. I'd suggest an EBC to control the boost and then you could have two boost settings, one maxing out at 14 and another maxing out at 16. Frankly, if the idea is to save wear and tear on the turbo's, I'd consider having one setting with the max boost at 10-12 to use for street, then another setting for 16 to use for autocross. Again, someone please correct me if I'm missing something here.
Dennis,
#33
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Just do a search in the Power FC forum, I'm not pulling this out of my ***. If you want the car to run decently you can go ahead and throw the PFC basemap out the window if you go 850 primaries. I'm sure KDR can tune it, but they will run into the same limitations that everyone else does, namely that the PFC will not respond when you try to lean out the idle beyond a certain point.
Not really. Some of us can't get rid of our ACV due to emissions and so have to resort to 850cc in primary.
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