3rd Gen Jeremy

This is really the same problem that I've asked about before but with more information. I'm getting boost at 3000 rpm but it's only a maximum of 2-3 psi. I know it's somewhere in the intake between the elbow and the lower intake plenum. I've recently had the intake plenum off and I replaced the intake plenum gasket but used the old gasket and O-ring for the throttle body. When I was torquing the plenum bolts, I broke the center bolt that goes through the plenum. I found a replacement at Advanced Auto Parts but I'm timid about torquing everything down for fear of breaking another one. I fear that my problem stems from that.

I'm going to pull it back off and replace the throttle body gasket and O-ring. Are there any suggestions as to how I should put it back together and make sure that I don't have any leaks, besides torqueing everything down to spec, I know I should have done that. Is there some kind of gasket sealer that I could safely use on the intake gaskets?

Also, what is the hose that connects to the throttle body elbow? How likely is it that my leak is coming from there?

By the way, I know it's upstream of the intercooler because I pressure tested all of my hoses including the intercooler and they all hold 15 psi all night.

I know theses are stupid questions but I want to make sure I get it right this time.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Have you verified that the other components of the turbo system are working properly (Turbo control, Charge control, charge relief, etc)?

3rd Gen Jeremy

Haven't checked any of the solenoids, I'm going to check them when I get the plenum off. I'm checked the charge control actuator and it's working, the charge relief valves are both tested with a Mity Vac and are working properly. The turbos are brand new Efini twins and I can hear them spooling up well. I can't look at the waste gate operation because I don't have a camera.

DrunkenBowler

Check all couplers. Especially around the y-pipe (this may have cracked). Make sure all hose clamps are tight. If you have a boost controller, make sure the line is not pitched somewhere (ask me how I know). If it's a major leak, you should be able to hear the boost leaking (sounds like nails on a chalkboard).

3rd Gen Jeremy

Yeah I got all those check out. I did have problems there because I didn't have my clamps tight enough. I built a device that lets me pressure test the whole system. It's pretty cool if you want to know about it (used spare plumbing supplies). Anyway, I know that the leak has moved upstream, has anyone experienced a problem with leaks between the elbow and the lower plenum?

Like I said before, after I broke that bolt, I didn't torque anything else to spec, I basically hand tightened them very gingerly because I didn't want to break another bolt.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Have you worked through this site?

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

3rd Gen Jeremy

Everything except the wastegate and precontrol actuators. I don't have anyway to verify that those are working or not.

I'm pretty sure that it's just a leak upstream because everything seems to be working correctly. I'm even getting the secondary turbo kicking on at 4500 but I never get over 2 psi.

Also, it seems like I can hear some kind of leak under boost.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Could your double throttle have a problem?

There aren't many places that a leak between the elbow and LIM will cause a problem. I would suspect loose vacuum hose, broken solenoid nipple, etc instead.

Dave

3rd Gen Jeremy

I disabled it and still had the same problem. I'm fairly certain the double throttle works properly.

What does the hose that attaches to the elbow do? That's the first place I want to look.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

It's worth a check: and it only takes a minute to verify.

tphan

The Charge Control Actuator rod...is it in or out when car in idle?

Dont bother to ts secondary turbo until you're sure primary is working like it should.

3rd Gen Jeremy

When at idle, the rod is pulled in. That was one of the first things that I checked. I thought that was my problem originally.

3rd Gen Jeremy

Do I need to remove the heat shield? Either way, I'm gonna have to put it up on jacks so I guess it doesn't matter.

If I need to adjust it, what should I be looking for or setting it to? They're brand new Efini turbos with new actuators and whatnot. If that is the problem, I probably have to adjust the rod setting. How should I adjust it?

Is there a way that I can test to make sure that it is in fact operating properly short of strapping a camera to the underside of the car?

Thanks,
Jeremy

Montego

iTrader: (1)

As long as you can fit your head under the car that is all that you have to do.

are you still referring to me? There's nothing to adjust, either the linkage is attached or it's not. Like I said wiggle it to make sure that it is attached because in the rest position it *really* looks like they are.

3rd Gen Jeremy

I was referring to you. If the rod is disconnected, should I hold the door closed and re-attach? Also, what affect could the Pre-Control not functioning properly have on things?

Thanks for your responses.
Jeremy

Montego

iTrader: (1)

I am a little lost here. What door?

Get under the car look at the area that I told you. I guarantee that once you actually see it it will make sense. It's a pretty simple application: rod goes into linkage, c-clip holds linkage and rod together.

If the C clip did indeed come off then get a new one and clip it, back together. It's like a $0.05 clip but it will cost you over 100HP if it falls off lol.

I don't know what the long term effects are if the clip falls off, I just know (because it's happened twice now) that you will only boost around 3 psi and that sucks.

3rd Gen Jeremy

The c - clip was on there and the actuator rod was secure. It seems that you were right about the door though. The turbo control is fused shut. It looks like somebody welded it shut!!!! WTF why would they do that? I disconnected the actuator rod to see if the arm would move but it won't.

I'll upload the pictures to my server.

Has anybody ever seen or heard of this happening?

Just so you know, the previous turbos were completely blown. Is it possible that it fused itself?

3rd Gen Jeremy

Here are the pics I promised. this is weird!!!

Could it have done that itself???!!!!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Actually, I suspect that the TC door is welded open, not shut. This would be a nonsequential mod - but the fact that the TCA is still there suggests that someone installed non-sequential turbos on a car with all the other sequential parts intact.

If you finish the nonsequential mod I'm guessing that you'll get full boost all the way thru (nonsequential full boost that is). Or, swap for a set of sequential turbos and get sequential operation again.

Dave

3rd Gen Jeremy

Actually, I have a new set of Efini twins that are sequential. I couldn't figure out why I was only getting 3 psi out of them. When I investigated the TCV, I found out that it was not a sequential manifold. However, everything else was wired for sequential operation. That doesn't make sense to me. Unless maybe the guy who rebuild the engine put the wrong manifold back on the car. That's the only thing that I can think might have happend. It was rebuild about 5000 miles ago before I bought the car.

Anybody want to swap manifolds? If your going non-sequential, this could be the way to do it a little cheaper.

Thanks,
Jeremy