twin7r1

iTrader: (1)

Hey everybody,
Is there a such thing as a boost leak kit that would work on sequential twins? I heard about this from a friend with a turbo dsm. They use them all the time to easily find where their leak is.

It's supposed to plug up the turbo inlet and preasurize the system with something like a bike pump. This way you can preasurize everthing with the engine off to try to find the leak.

My problem is that with the 99 twins, and boost controlled by the PFC I was tuned to run about .83 to .89 bar. Recetly i can't boost past .79 bar being the max -- most of the time its .69 bar. im not sure what this is due to but i have to find the problem

Thanks for any help

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

My buddy Jimmy makes one -

http://www.fighters-garage.com/evo.html

Scroll down about halfway. I've been meaning to get one and document it's use on an FD. It's a good way to test for leaks.

Dale

twin7r1

iTrader: (1)

What size should i order to accomidate the twins,

- and will this work if i just put it on the 1st turbo?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I believe the primary inlet duct is 2.5", but I'd get some measuring tape first and double-check yourself. Should work on the first turbo, might have to open the butterfly valve in the Y pipe to let air flow back to the secondary turbo itself, but that would just check for leaks in that short piece of pipe.

I'm gonna run over to his shop this afternoon and discuss this more with him. I'd like to do a writeup on boost pressure testing for the FD - this is one thing that more people should do.

Dale

twin7r1

iTrader: (1)

cool thanks I think i will try to pick up one of these soon

fsae_alum

Just make your own for under $5.

I used one on my SR20DET in the past. Worked great. It's real easy to make your own. Just measure the inlet pipe ID and then go down to Home Depot / Lowes / Menards and buy two PVC pipe caps that have an OD that matches your intake pipe ID. Then buy two wheel valve stems. Drill a hole in the end of each cap that the valve stem will mount into (with the stem poking out the end of the cap). Take the finished product and put it into the intake pipe and tighten around the outside of the hose to seal it up. Do the same thing to the other intake pipe. Take an air comperssor and pressurize it (not too high maybe 16 psi) and listen for leaks. Need to do it with an air compressor or else you'll be there all day with a bike pump. Don't know about a rotary engine but on a piston engine you pretty much have to use a compressor as doing it with a bike pump lets the air escape out the valves faster than you can pump (unless the cams or rockers are out).