boost controller
midpipe
probably more injectors
850s in the primarieswould be the easiest and cheapest for you
the 1300s alone will get you to 415rw with dangerously high injector duty cycle.

depends how much power you are looking to make

 

Yea Neal....you need to drop that stupid cat and get a MP. And I'm sure w/ some helpful hints from Brian (Wargasm), you can find a way to tune your FD right before emissions to pass (more) easily. The trick of course would be to get your state inspection SEPARATE from your emissions inspection, because if you do both at the same time, they often raise the car and check for a cat... If that's a no-go, just keep your cat handy, and put it on for emissions, then take it off again.

Oh and bout the injectors...told ya so

 

Im looking for 380-400 reliable power. I have a profec b spec2 boost controller right now. This will be my first tune after breaking the car in so it will be a conservative one.


ramy- my state inspection is next month and I dont have emissions for over a year.

 

I have 550/1300's and a walbro. At 15psi I was seeing 80% duty cycles.

 

IIRC, 80% is the "magic #" ppl try to stay under. And seeing that Neal will DEF. be running higher than 15 psi (or I'll straight up TAKE the BNRs from him lol) he'll need larger injectors...

 

when did you become my "big brother" ramy? go drive your own damn car lol

Like I said this will be my initial tune. I am going to have it tuned at 15psi on race gas and hoping that I will have a WI kit by then. I want to have a nice broad power curve and then build on that later. I am with agent on this one, slow and steady saves the motor.

 

Neal, I never said up the boost here and now. We just talked about this like 2 days ago. The point is that in the short long term (if that makes sense), you WILL be upping the boost past 15psi. IMO, I just think it's pointless/a waste of money and labor charges to go ahead and get 1300s, then a lil later have to buy a new rail and get 1600s. Giving yourself more than enough room to expand doesn't mean you HAVE to expand now. It just means you'll never fall into a dangerous situation anytime soon (or later, for that matter). That's why I think it's a no-brainer to upgrade w/ tomarrow in mind, not today.

 

so in the future I upgrade my car......I dont have the experience that alot of the guys on this forum have and I really dont feel like getting a crash couse on it. Id rather go at my own pace and have fun learning how to get the most out of it. I might not be running the BNR's for all they are worth in the beginning but that doesnt change the fact that the potential is still there if I choose to utilize it in the future. Im going to have the 7 for a good while and dont feel the need to shoot my wad on the first go around.

 

I guess we just look at things differently. I'd rather drop a large chunk now, knowing it'll save me $$ in the long run, since I'll have to go back in and change/upgrade things - esp. when I'm not doing the labor myself.

 

15psi on racegas?
if you make 400rwhp youll be in the low 90% duty cycle area

adding stock secondaries for the primaries will get you all squared away for what you want to do. 1600s is a big deal because you need new fuel lines rail and fuel pressure regulator and a place to put it. It doesnt sound like you are near hardcore enough for that!

I also dont understand people that would spend so much money and then run 15psi max on those turbos when it can be done on stock ones. What I would do if I were you is max them out on the dyno have the car tuned and then turn the boost down to the lowest setting you can for daily driving ~12ish. This way you have the power there if you ever want it. thats what I do...run 12psi daily driving and 22psi is my max on racegas anything over 17+ gets racegas

 

I understand what you are saying. So my question to any with experience is. With my fuel mods (1300 secondaries and supra pump) and a new stock motor, what should I tune it for. I dont mind being a little conservative this time around and getting it tuned for higher boost later.

so what kind of power would i be looking at for 85% duty?

 

It's hard to say but its somewhere near 390ish rw that you'll be at a fine inj duty cycle

The primary rail inj upgrade is really cheap. Find some low mile stock secondary injectors and send them to RC for cleaning and balancing. Then you can send your primary rail or a spare to garfinkle for milling for 5 dollars and the injectors will come back clean with new o rings and you can just drop them right in...about 200 bucks and this should allow you to do any type of boost on those turbos and there really wont have to be a next time for upgrading etc unless you go single turbo which I see no reason to : )

 

na, I specifically wanted to stay with twins...thanks for the info on the injectors though.

 

That's good advice. If I ever want more injectors, I'm going to get 850's up front. This way it still keeps the fuel system simple.

 

Becareful with the 1300 secondary injectors.

There is a thread floating around, Stating that 1300injectors were
failure prone, causing alot of engine failures..

Just a FYI.

Rammy is right. you should go ahead, leave the primaries alone and just
get 1600 secondaries and forget about it

 

We have 7 sets of 1300 cc injectors done by RC engineering and have yet to see one failure.

 

so if i want to achieve 15 psi safely.. all i need to do is get the bored out 850' s from RC ? (1300's).... I was planning on going w/ w/ 1600's new rail fpr etc. etc. to achieve that goal safely.. If so. Don't you think it is a good idea to add a fpr anyway at this point? Thanks for your comments.Garret

 

I've run RC 1300 secondaries for a while... no issues.

Mr rx-7 tt:
Do you have sequential system problems running the twins on higher boost?

 

Yes, 1300s will result in a safe duty cycle at those boost levels on stock turbos. Why do you think you need an aftermarket FPR, the stock one is just fine. The only true reason to get an aftermarket FPR is when going with 1600s, since you'll be removing the stock FPR in that case.

 

I've had no issues with my 1300's. I spent the extra cash to buy the new 1300's though. (New 850's bored to 1300's I believe) For what I have in my injectors, I probably could have gotten 1600's, the rail, and the regulator but I wanted to keep mine as simple as possible.

 

<Why do you think you need an aftermarket FPR, the stock one is just fine>
Sorry i meant splice a guage into the regulator to monitor pressure..Thanks Garret

 

mine are also brand new 850s. RC does not use used 850s anymore (just speculation but that might be a reason for the failures).

 

i gotcha.anyway sorry about changing thread subject.. these preliminary #'s on the bnr's are quite interesting thus far...

 

None, runs like a champ no traction in first or second and lays rubber when I shift into 3rd...

 

lol i thought i would bring this thread back from the grave and see if i could get some info from you people if many of you still actively read/post in this particular area.
I have These reliability mods:

Walbro 255 pump
XS FPR
550/1600
ss fuel lines
kg parts secondary rail
pettit 3" DP
petit 3" MP
Apexi N1 exhaust
Fluidyne racing radiator
Greddy large SMIC
Trust Arynix intake
greddy elbow
all aluminum piping (all the IC piping/ efini y pipe, crossover pipe etc)
aluminum AST
RP streetported motor
brand spankin new efini twins
probably some stuff i missed

now that being said here is my dilema: Im power hungry...

Chris at RP tuned my car. he said it was a conservative tune and it turned out 338 rwhp @ .9bar(13.2 psi) I want to get more out of it without going to race gas. The lot of you seem to have a lot of experience with this stuff. how much higher can i safely go without worrying about popping my motor and how much less conservative can i get with the timing without worrying about popping my motor? id really like to go with more hp without having to respend a lot of money on a new motor thanks for any input guys -skylar