BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

So if I had a blown apex seal, I would only have 4 good puffs and two bad ones, correct?

Listen to the video... there are 5 distinct puffs and one half assed one.

What do you think it is?.. side seal? cracked Apex seal off to the side (the visible portions through the exhaust port all look in great shape)

Anyways... need some input.

http://s468.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=DSCN1893.flv

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

bump

NCMontegott

iTrader: (5)

why don't you do a leak down test on each face of the rotor that would give you a very good idea of what is working correctly and what is not.

Adam

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Can't get the link to work. But do a test, should be simple to diagnose from there.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

i've done a leak down on a piston engine, but how do you do it on a rotary?

NCMontegott

iTrader: (5)

Do it the same way you do it with a piston engine, excpt you need to make sure you are at bdc with every face of the rotor and be sure to put a large racthet or breaker bar on the eccentric shaft to prevent the engine from turning over then presto check for a leak or lack of a leak.

Adam

killahrx7

i say if the engine doesn't sound right and nothing changed with tuning it, it's hurt. pull it and prepare to spend some money.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

well i decided to just rip it apart and see the damage. I may rebuilt it or part it out..

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

vacuum at idle, and what idle rpm?

does the boost gauge needle fluctuate rhythmically at a constant idle?

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

dont know didn't have a boost gauge. the engine is out BTW.

ANYWAYS...

just pulled off the rear iron this evening. so far things look really good. the housing looks immaculate... and I mean SUPER clean. all of the o-rings came out very easy and were very pliable.

My guess is this thing was rebuilt not too long ago.

A lot of the parts will be able to be reused.

Anyways... will update a few pics in a sec.



Can someone guide me to some kind of "list" that says what things need to be replaced and what can be reused? Also, where is the best place to buy the 0-ring kits from. I am going to replace the Apex seals/springs (mazda OEM), corner seals/springs and side seals/springs... also most likely the oil control rings and obviously the large o-rings that seal the housings. Anything else I am missing?

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so after a bit of poking around online I've made a list of things I will replace. If you see something that's un nessicary or missing, let me know.

Water Seal Kit
Oil Control Ring O-Ring Set
Side Seal Springs
Side Seals
Corner Seal w/Plug
Corner Seal Springs
Front Main Seal
Oil Control Ring Spring Set
Mazda 2mm, 2 piece apex seals
Apex Seal Spring (Long)
Apex Seal Spring (Short)


Anything else? Would you reccomend replacing the oil control rings? Apparently they are re-useable. Just a question.. I put a bit of ATF fluid in the engine to see if it was a stuck seal causing my issues. I heard ATF dosen't like oil control rings and can cause them to swell and deteriorate... or was this the oil control 0-rings that they were talking about?


Thanks!

WaachBack

iTrader: (21)

I kind of covered this in your other thread. Yes you should replace your oil control rings. If I were you, I'd just buy a RA/Atkins/ALS basic rebuild kit and be done with it.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I wouldnt replace the oil control rings (metal ones) unless they're out of spec----those suckers are pricey.

Are you sure the motor is blown? I'll be curious to see what you find. I agree that the rotor housing looks pretty smooth and low mileage, but that rotor has a ton of carbon on it.

Don't forget the dowel pin o-rings, the oil pickup tube gasket, metal front cover gasket, and the double o-ring behind the front cover.

Have you rebuilt a motor before? make sure you clearance everything correctly, check for endplay, check the rotor housings for warping, etc.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I have not rebuilt a motor before... I will be getting a video and following it.

As for the oil control rings... I read somewhere that ATF makes them swell, or is that the oil control O-RINGS? I put some ATF in the housing to see if it was a stuck seal and I don't want to have damaged the conrol rings.

Also... obviously things that are being re-used should be put backl in the same place, correct? I think that's common sense...

I too apart the rear rotor last nite and everything was in great shape. the housing looks even better with the rotor out.

I agree, a lot of carbon build up... this car was last owned by a really old dude, like in his 60's/70's.. he was the one who would have had it rebuilt and chances are he didn't drive the car to redline a lot.

Tonite I am taking the front rotor apart... the one that was causing issues... we will see if it was infact blown.

AnthonyNYC

iTrader: (3)

It's the seals inside the oil control rings that may swell, not the metal rings. The video is a good start but pay close attention to clearancing the side seals, make sure you clean the areas where the coolant seals go very well, it may look clean but then run a small flathead through there and clean it properly.

Pay close attention to the way the oil springs are installed, very easy to make a mistake here. End play should be easy since you are reusing all the same parts from the same motor (depending on front rotor).

Also pay close attention when reassembling the front of the motor with the spacers, thrust washers etc. The video should cover that in depth. Post what you find with the front of the motor. Keep in mind to "properly" spec a motor, you will need to invest in measuring tools, micrometers, dial indicators, depth bore gauges if you want to measure bearings etc...

Anthony

WaachBack

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for the correction, I meant the oil control seals, the rubber ones that come with the rebuild kit. The metal ones are reuseable.