well we will find out soon..re-doing the comp test considering i did it wrong lol.. the "poor mans compression test" turned out good..both were super loud 3 even PSHHT sounds.

Car has decent power over 3,000 rpm just runs like *** under 3,000 , pretty sure somthing is majorly fucked lol looking closer at the video actually i may be missing a seal or somthing on the front rotor because theres more bounces on the rear one


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC_Bnsl5BMo

 

it sounds fairly even while cranking but that doesn't mean much. you did the compression test wrong anyways, you NEED to remove the schrader valve from the hose going to the gauge, all you did was test peak compression and not each and every face on the rotor, a rotary has to be considered like 3 cylinders in one combustion chamber so typical piston engine compression testers won't work right with the schrader valve in place.

sounds like a motor one of my customers built, don't know what the problem was but i know it had one seal jammed or broken/missing on one of the faces of the rotor. hell, if you just bought that motor and installed it it could have been his considering it changed hands numerous times after he gave up on doing it himself.

 

true, but the engines original, 54,000 kms just rolled over on the odometer....the housings look brand new, dont even have a oil stain on them.

mods power-wise are re-amemiya re-mapped ecu...full exhaust with high flow cat, hks intake, and hks electronic boost controller. if its a blown engine i might sell it all and drop something different in..i have owned too many rotaries and finally this is the one that goes on me LOL

im re-doing the comp test if i get off work early

 

I've ran blown engines before with bad apex seals and they didn't run as good as that. Id assume a side seal, but we won't know until you get that correct compression test done.

 

yeah i have drivin a friends FC with 1 missing apex seal before and it was alot different, similar in some aspects, but alot more intencified... like how it took us 10 mins to start it, and when driving the fc was extremely slow and gutless. FD still got lots of power. I didnt hear any crunching sounds or anything i actually dont even know when the problem happend.. i was on the highway driving to the beach and when i got to the first stop light in town it was idling like *** lol

 

whatever it is it is minor and will likely show up something like 96/65/65 on one rotor face where a chipped seal will present itself, or a broken side seal, i have never seen a broken corner seal yet unless other things whacked the rotor first.

 

yeah i didnt hear any weird noises when it went, or even know when it went really....strange. anyways, its defenatly somthing to do with the front rotor, so the engines coming out. thx 4 the opinions guys

 

The hot start idle definitely sounds like running on 1 rotor. What were you doing when this problem showed up? What do the plugs look like that you pulled? How many miles on the engine?

Could be bad plugs, stuck seal, ignition problems -- give more details

 

i was driving to the beach on the highway and just cruising. when i got to a stop light it was idling all messed up.

plugs look like its been running pretty rich, black with minor deposits on them

just changed the plugs to brand new ones tonight, same issue still

checked ignition and its good.

kilometers...54,000kms.. authentic too, i have lots of service records that came with it from japan.. and the rotor housings are so clean it dosent look like oil was ever spilled on them lol, what it should like like for 54,000, a shame!

 

You may have a stuck seal - before doing anything try the steam cleaning procedure to see if it helps

 

metrotown mazda has a proper compression tester. a friend brought his car there and they did a compression test for cash. see if you can do the same.

 

yeah don't pull the motor just yet.

 

really? i work right across the street from them basically ! cept id have to get the car towed there... and back because its pretty far away from home and i dont want to be driving the car the way it is right now

 

i would try the water treatment, maybe even pump a little MMO into both vacuum ports on the UIM on the passenger side, crank the engine over a few seconds with the EGI fuse out and let it sit overnight then do the water treatment again. seen a few engines that had excessive carbon in them, even low mileage motors are not exempt from carbon deposits.

 

Hey, i think i have a similar problem. Im really at a loss as to how it started though.

My car sat all winter outside not driven - the only issue i had in spring was it flooded - did the deflood procedure it backfired - shot a 1 foot flame out the exhaust, almost blew my garage up. Havnt driven it for about a month since - went to drive it the other day - it seems to start fine but now its really gutless and stalls if i dont keep the rpms up - it runs ok just ideling - also saw smoke coming from turbo area when its hot...

Can anyone confirm is this a apex or corner seal problem, not sure what the turbo smoke is about - maybe turbo oil lines??
Havnt done a compression test yet either, didnt want to get into the before holidays.

Any ideas help,
Thanks.

 

just rebuild it now while there is a good chance of reuseable parts