Hikaru

I just want to confirm if this will work. I am currently running just a boost gauge off the red hose in the diagram. I have a Blitz SBC ID that I want to install but instead of running a T in the engine bay I figure I could just run it inside the car since I already have the boost gauge there with the appropriate hose. I made this diagram myself. However I do have some other questions as well.



The nipple next to the nipple used to get my boost gauge reading at this time has a black hose that goes to the stock bov. On this pic it has a T and goes to where??



Next question, what are the parts called for the location where the "in" to solinoid and "out" to solinoid hoses connect?



The wiring harness to grey box, can this be routed through the passenger side wheel well? I already installed the boost gauge via the driver side wheel well. I saw a similar looking hole from the engine bay towards the wheel well, just confirming. If it does go through the passenger side of the firewall, where does the hole go through, around which area of the firewall?



I am using these pics I found from the forum that detailed another members installation but I couldn't find the thread again. Is this also the correct way to install the SBC ID?

btw I noticed that the Japanese instruction booklet had a section specifically for FD installation I will scan and have the instructions translated since I haven't seen that done yet. The english instructions are vauge and do not have the correct parts list.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

nope, i tried going that way and got a 19psi boost spike. You need to do either version one or version two of this diagram below

Hikaru

purerx7,
Thanks for the response. I have that diagram. I just don't get why the instructions would steer me wrong. I read many posts of it being either way just makes it so confusing.

Would the method that I propose running the red vacuum line for both the boost gauge and boost controller be ok though? I just need to know so I can at least knock half of the installation out.

Also is there a rubber cover in the passenger wheel well that allows me to pass the wire harness through it?

Lastly that sucks if it uses either method because the Blitz unit doesn't come with additional hardware for version2 ...

anymore feedback from you or other users are appreciated. I searched many times I'll keep searching in case I missed something. Thanks.

xblazinlv

I am using this boost controller on a Non-sequential setup so I don't have a pre-spool actuator anymore. However, your install looks correct for the most part.


The in line comes from the turbo, the out goes to the wastegate. Then you cap the other side of the wastegate and you should be set. I have no experience with version 2 where you tee the pre-spool as well, but I wouldn't recommend it, as the Blitz manual clearly states it cannot control twin turbo or sequential turbo setups in automatic mode. You can run it like that manually, but then why did you waste the extra $$ for the nicest boost controller on the market if you're going to use manual mode

Good luck.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

you can get all the hardware at pep boys for cheap.

I ran my wires throuhg the rubber cover as well.

The diagram you have set for the t with the boost gauge and manifold is correct.

I am having problems with my turbos, but ever since i changed over to version two I have seen NO boost spikes and constant boost.

bryan

Hikaru

Ok so my line setup for the gauge & boost controller unit is good. One down.

The Blitz manual indeed states that Auto does not work with with twin turbo setups. I like the bar graph feature that will allow me to see the boost cycle without actually watching the boost gauge during driving and I'll be picking up the power ID after getting this to work.

I'm still confused as to why there are two different ways to install this part.... hopefully by the end of the week I can get the japanese version of the blitz instructions specifically for the FD translated and scanned.

I'm always lookin for more input, thanks
-Hikaru

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

your welcome, heres the manual in english

http://www.team3s.com/Blitz%20SBC%20i-D%20manual.pdf

Hikaru

purerx7,
Thats the english instructions included with the unit I have those, but I'm saying that the Japanese instructions included have a specific instruction on installing the unit for the FD that I can scan and translate for anybody that interested.

Hikaru

UPDATE:

Ok I installed the Blitz SBC ID3 tonight. I also installed the Blitz SUSpower twin intakes.

All the installlation went fine, I went with Version 1

BOOST : MANUAL (this is a given)
SET : 0 (stock boost, for all the tests I set it at 0)
GAIN : 0 (the instructions state that 5-15% is optimal on most actuator type wastegate systems)

It didn't go beyond .68 x100kpa comes out to about 10 psi but felt sluggish.

Next,
GAIN : 1 , same peak boost, and didn't feel any faster.
GAIN : 3, same peak boost, not sure if it felt faster..
GAIN : 5, same peak boost, felt faster
GAIN : 7, same peak boost, felt faster but it coulda been in my head
GAIN : 10, same peak boost, felt faster for certain.
GAIN : 12, same peak boost, felt marginally faster
GAIN : 15, overboosted, 1.06 x100kpa , felt ALOT faster.................(duh)

Car still runs... for now heh it didn't show any immediate signs of dying.

GAIN down to 12, overboosted, .96 this time .........
GAIN down to 10, overboosted, .75 ......
GAIN down to 6, overboosted, .69

stopped making test runs set it at GAIN : 4 and drove home.

Inspected under the hood. Upon inspection noticed that the waste gate plug that I had in place was GONE. The absence of this plug should be the explanation of the overboosting, in relation to the GAIN setting becoming higher and higher. I was actually pretty happy with 10 or 12 GAIN, I'll probably stick with GAIN : 11.

Sorry if it seems obvious what the problem was. But I was glad to notice it myself and come up with a logical explanation.

Otherwise I was happy with Version 1. It didn't go beyond the .68 level, the response was good and it certained solved my overboosting problem (while the plug was still in. I used to overboost up to .8 and would transition down to .7 or .75ish.

What is a good plug that I can use to cover that hole up? I guess its safe to drive my car if I don't boost too much.. please let me know.

As usual any input is appreciated.

Hikaru

UPDATE:

I ended up using the original hose that was there with a hose clamp holding it in place on the wastegate control, then on the other end of the hole I just put a bolt that barely fit and a hose clamp to insure it stays.

I no longer overboost.

The peak boost is .59 x100kpa roughly 8.6 PSI

I tried

SET : 0
GAIN : 5 through 15 a difference in response was found but other than it still capped out at .59 kpa.

I even tried SET : 1-4
GAIN : 5

no difference there either. I know the 1-4 is marginal since it is a percentage of the maximum boost.

Everything else still appears to be secured, engine runs good etc.

let me know if anybody knows how to get this back up to the .68 kpa it once was.

ty in advance

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Dude. Gain = senstitivity. Too much gain and your boost should trail off. Too little and it shouldt be managing boost at all.

The original hose youre using may have restrictor pill in it. They are a sort of manual boost controller from the factory. You should use all new hoses. Try heat cycling them before you boost on them. Let the car get hot, Let it cool down. This should set the hoses.

I suspect that the increased boost you saw was due to your cap slipping off and not having anything to do with gain. You should use a 1/4" or 6mm vacuum nipple cap that you can find at pep boys to cover it up.

Hikaru

So you are saying that even though the original plug I used held boost until it popped off it is different than using a hose with a bolt at the end of it. I would think a plug is a plug... explain to me how it is different. Both plugs I used were to completely restrict any flow out one just happened to fall out, the other is now hose clamped securely in place.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

I dunno man. I havent checked out your setup in person. I dont suggest the bolt in a hose trick with nipple caps readily available. Im not completely sure what youre talking about. You should use brand new hoses in between your
boost nipples->boost control unit->actuators
You can keep the solenoid side of the actuators plumbed like stock or cap them off.

Hikaru

on this pic i'm talking about the part that the blue out to solenoid hose connects to. on the other end of it there is a nipple that has a short vacuum hose but in the instructions it tells u to plug up both sides... I don't think were on the same page here.

Hikaru

UPDATE,
I'm talking to purerx7, seems he has the same type of issue, were running similar mods and both run the Blitz SBC ID3 and getting peak boost of 8.6

Hikaru

UPDATE,
I adjusted the SET and the peak boost has increased. My (current) conclusion is that it was because the method of plugging the WG is completely secure than the halfassed method I used originally. However stock boost (SET : 0) isn't sotck boost it is just a lower than stock boost. This still makes me wonder.

Otherwise I am achieving the 10-8-10 pattern.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

what was your set and gain set to?

chopstix

I bought the SBC i-color.. which the instructions for havent been translated into english yet. I guess the boost settings are pretty much the same as the ID3.

Does the ID3 have the speed map?

crazyrx7

First of all those pics are of my car and the way I installed the boost controller. The way I did it is the correct way. The reason why some of you had a huge boost spike in the transition is because the settings on you controller were incorrect. When I had it set up I had a 0.5psi spike at transition. If its not working for you then you are doing something wrong.

R.K.

crazyrx7

Also make sure you cap the line like in version 1.

R.K.

Hikaru

Yep mine works like a charm thanks for the pics!