blew rear end lastnight, question on replacing
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Goldsboro NC, Seymour Joynson AFB
blew rear end lastnight, question on replacing
ok so i blew my rear end last night as i was going into third. differential fluid is sprayed everywhere and car came to a coasting stop. engine and tranny seem unharmed just rearend is gone. is the 1995 fd rear end compatiable with previous generation rear ends?
does anyone have a rear end for sale nearby me in abilene tx? thanks for the help guys!
does anyone have a rear end for sale nearby me in abilene tx? thanks for the help guys!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 175
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From: Goldsboro NC, Seymour Joynson AFB
ok so got to peak under car and look like leaking where drive shaft goes in, back of diff cover looks fine. i spin the tires and when i spin them i can hear the grinding kinda noise and both wheels are still spinning together but when i jerk forward or backwards i can make them slip...any ideas? one other thing...what is stock gear ration on a 95 PEP?
95 differential is compatible with 93 and up. The older turbo 2 differential can also be swapped into the fd case. It's a clutch style and is pretty much unbreakable, that is what i went with when i blew my stock differential. Other options are a kaaz, kinda pricey but also very strong, or go with a low mileage jdm lsd and case and just swap the whole thing out. I recomend you pull your case and open it up and see what all is broken. It sounds like you broke the small spider gears that allow the wheels to slip. If you search for my differential thread you will find quite a bit of information from when i was in your situation. Your ring and pinion is a 4.1 automatics are 3.9 some jdm models are 4.3 and different rx8 models are i think 4.4 and 4.7.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 175
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From: Goldsboro NC, Seymour Joynson AFB
good info! thanks, so i got the car in the garage and looked under neath and now i can see that the left axle is popped out and thats where are the differential fluid came out. im working on tearing it apart but looks like im going to need a service manual. you think the whole differential is gone?
Its not that hard. I just swaped my stock diff for a T2 swap. you have to remove the 3 nuts and bolts that hold the wheel hub and remove the clip that holds the brake like to the bracket. dont undo the brake line, its not necessary.
Damn i been on this forum a while and this is the first time i heard of the rear breaking like this.
Do you drag the car alot or maybe you just had some old dirty fluid in there??
Do you drag the car alot or maybe you just had some old dirty fluid in there??
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I don't think the whole differential is gone, but the important part is. The easiest thing is to swap the whole pumkin out. If you take the differential out of the pumkin you can leave the pinion gear and just move the ring gear over to the new differential. The backlash will have to be set which is the hardest part of the job. Alot of people don't do this, but it really should be done and new bearings should be installed also.
My differential blew from too much power and an uneven bumpy paved surface. It had fresh fluid. Course it had over 110k on it also.
My differential blew from too much power and an uneven bumpy paved surface. It had fresh fluid. Course it had over 110k on it also.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 175
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From: Goldsboro NC, Seymour Joynson AFB
ya it has 117k miles and fresh fluid, making 395 to wheels, shifted into third as i was spinning in second and felt as if i missed third but it was the rear end going. was grabbing for like minute after it blew then it just started slipping like crazy. thanks for the help on swapping it. im going to look for that t2 rear diff if i can find one around here, its direct bolt in right?
Yes and no. If you find my thread you will see some of what is involved. The differential itself bolts right in but they are never the same size as what comes out. This means the shims for the backlash won't be correct. The shims are around $20 a piece and usually will take a few tries to get correct. If the backlash is too tight it will create more heat and can wear the ring and pinion or even bind up. If it's too loose it will be sloppy and create clunking in the rear. If you have never set up a differential before you should either do a lot of research and get the correct tools, or take it to a differential shop. If it's not set correctly you will have issues with it and have to do it all over again. Also unless you get ahold of a new tii differential you will need to take it apart and measure all the disks to make sure they are in spec. The fsm doesn't have the correct specs but my thread does. You also need to make sure you get the correct year t2 lsd. The 87 is correct the 88 is not. I can't remember if 85 and 86 have the correct one or not.
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