Are the rear compression numbers even for all three phases? Also 2.5 month old gas. Has the car sat up that long too? If so, I would suspect carbon freezing of the apex seals in their rotor grooves first. If you can get the car running, I would try the water carbon cleaning method. Just understand that low compression doesn't mean that the engine is blown.

 

I had been told that the octane rating was reduced over time, not sure if that's true. Here is what STA-BIL says about fuel degredation...

"What Happens to Fuel When it is Stored?
Any fuel, be it gasoline, diesel, or heating fuel, is made up of many different organic compounds. These organic compounds are constantly changing over time becoming new compounds that change the characteristics of fuel. The same molecules that make up the best parts of gasoline can react with oxygen and other elements in the environment and form new molecules that build up to form gummy residues or varnish-like films that can clog up passages in fuel lines, carburetors, and injectors.
Some fuels are treated with oxidation inhibitors to allow them to be stored for up to 3 months without generating excessive deposits. Other fuels have no inhibitors at all. In any case, storage of equipment requires some special consideration for the fuel system."

This combined with an already old fuel filter would definately lead to some problems.

STA-BIL says...

"The average gasoline is extended from 3 months oxidation life without STA-BIL to 15 months with STA-BIL."

I would think about using it if you don't plan on driving your car for over a month, but maybe I'm just over cautious. In any event I always use it when I head off to college (9 months). Of course I still take it easy on the car once I start driving it again.

Here's the website if you're interested in further reading...

http://www.i4at.org/surv/sta-bil.htm

 

Thanks for the info man.

NINE MONTHS? OMG I'd have severe withdrawal symptoms if I didn't drive my car for even ONE month. I feel for you...

 

Yea it's not easy, but worth the wait when I come back during the summer. Atleast I have my integra to toy around with...

 

My condolences =/

Jeremy

 

14psi and stock fuel pump?! ahh!!1

sorry to hear that though man ;/

 

13-14psi is a bad idea on a piggy back or stock reprogrammed ecu and its even shittier because you had the stock injectors and fuel pump. Really sorry to hear about this. I replaced my fuel filter with 10k miles on it during the tuning session its always a really good idea. Now youve got a really big project on your hands if you are going to do it right. I say if you dont have the money or motivation to do it right just sell the car because it will never run right if you dont do everything that it wants 100%

Here is what I would do. Supra TT fuel pump, new 1200s for the secondaries and have the primaries cleaned, pfc with commander and get it tuned by steve kan, do the sequential simplification so you have less vacuum lines, change the thermostat, have the turbos inspected and rebuilt or get a low mile set ported wastegate, replace all main coolant lines check connections, get a profec b boost controller, get ss omp lines from gotham, replace all gaskets get the gasket kit ~120 bucks, most importantly get a solid engine, never go above 13-14psi on 93 octane, oh and make sure that the boost gauge you have is accurate.

I know its expensive but this is what has to happen if you want a reliable modded car. If you cant afford that keep it stock which is still fast until you have the money to do it right. if you try to run a rigged modded setup youll have to get another engine (which youll prob figure out how to get money for since its urgent)and you could have had these upgrades instead so dont go cheap.

this is how it is and Im no better than you ive been exactly right where you are before on my first fd and 2nd one but after I had the stock engines replaced I've done it right and was in love with both cars never had 1 frigen problem both daily driven 300rw and 400+rw est.