Bizarre Starting/engaged starter
05-11-08, 04:55 PM
#1
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Bizarre Starting/engaged starter
Ok all you FD aficionados! Please put your brain power together. I have the hardest starting problem to explain.
1. Push in clutch to start.
2. Turn key to run (III) position to start, hold key there, car is running.
3. Let go of key...car dies.
The only way to keep the motor running is to keep key in run position, which means keeping the starter engaged to keep the motor running. If I do not let go from run position, but take foot off clutch pedal, car dies. Either way the starter has to stay engaged to keep motor running.
My diagnoses:
1. Changed ignition switch with new ignition switch. Result: Ineffective
2. Changed Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Result: Ineffective
3. Bought the entire Key lock/tumbler with new key and ig switch. Result: Ineffective
4. Checked all fuses by steering column and under hood. None fried.
I am at a complete loss of all probable explanations.
So what do you genius' think could be the problem here???
THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP!
1. Push in clutch to start.
2. Turn key to run (III) position to start, hold key there, car is running.
3. Let go of key...car dies.
The only way to keep the motor running is to keep key in run position, which means keeping the starter engaged to keep the motor running. If I do not let go from run position, but take foot off clutch pedal, car dies. Either way the starter has to stay engaged to keep motor running.
My diagnoses:
1. Changed ignition switch with new ignition switch. Result: Ineffective
2. Changed Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Result: Ineffective
3. Bought the entire Key lock/tumbler with new key and ig switch. Result: Ineffective
4. Checked all fuses by steering column and under hood. None fried.
I am at a complete loss of all probable explanations. So what do you genius' think could be the problem here???
THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP!
05-12-08, 12:59 AM
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No, but if it was bad then the car should run just off the battery then. Which an easy way to check for a bad ALT is disconnect the battery while the engine is running. If the car dies you know you have a bad ALT.
But, hey I might as well have it tested anyways!
But, hey I might as well have it tested anyways!
05-12-08, 02:10 AM
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Since you've changed out the ignition switch and tumbler, it really just sounds like you're losing the 12V IG2 as a wiring problem. Does just the engine die or do you lose all car functions that would normally work in the ON position (like power windows, dash warning lights, basically everything except the stereo)? If the ON and the ACC function behave the same, then that's you're problem and you're just going to have to trace the wire. Of course, those could all be tied to IG1 (I'm not sure) and still be working for you, even without IG2.
Here's a basic auto ignition function flow just so you can understand what I'm talking about and you can test for what you need to trace (+B is 12V constant):
Have fun.
Here's a basic auto ignition function flow just so you can understand what I'm talking about and you can test for what you need to trace (+B is 12V constant):
Have fun.
Last edited by DK; 05-12-08 at 02:16 AM.
05-12-08, 06:57 PM
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