The Big Fat FD3S Cooling Thread
11-02-09, 10:01 AM
#126
Track Day Temps after 15-20 minutes...
Water: 109 *C
Air: 90 *C
Mods:
Aluminum AST
16 LBS Cap
Koyo Rad
ARC SMIC
AI Kit (currently not working...)
First session the 13 LBS cap seal failed and in the off sessions I; (a) replaced 2 of 3 coolant lines out of the AST, (b) bent the AST cap seat/flange back to a symmetrical shape, (c) replaced 13 LBS cap with 16 LBS. She was running strong the whole time. I am sure the ecu retard timing like crazy at these intake temps, but all and all it seemed OK.
I am crazy to push on track at these temps?
For next time I would very much like to repair the AI kit functionality and set up a proper V-mount I/C setup with shrouds. Any other suggestions?
Water: 109 *C
Air: 90 *C
Mods:
Aluminum AST
16 LBS Cap
Koyo Rad
ARC SMIC
AI Kit (currently not working...)
First session the 13 LBS cap seal failed and in the off sessions I; (a) replaced 2 of 3 coolant lines out of the AST, (b) bent the AST cap seat/flange back to a symmetrical shape, (c) replaced 13 LBS cap with 16 LBS. She was running strong the whole time. I am sure the ecu retard timing like crazy at these intake temps, but all and all it seemed OK.
I am crazy to push on track at these temps?
For next time I would very much like to repair the AI kit functionality and set up a proper V-mount I/C setup with shrouds. Any other suggestions?
11-02-09, 10:11 AM
#128
What is this based on? Knock sensor readings? I heard the OE knock sensor can't be trusted and that it is too sensitive. It picks up lots of not-engine-knock sounds. Is this range where people say, "I was tracking my car and then the motor gernaded" ?
11-02-09, 06:34 PM
#129
Please somebody help!!!
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I don't remember who I heard it from, but it was one of the regs. I would suspect your ducting before the cooler or lack of a catch can, the stock duct is terribad. The catch can may help though.
11-03-09, 05:29 PM
#135
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[QUOTE=jkstill;9602549]
I bought mine straight from www.eastcoastparts.com . I didn't take any pictures of the backside but I think the website has pictures. If I remember, it's all billet.
Mine is on a FD motor, you just need to use a 1988 waterpump housing.
Mine is on a FD motor, you just need to use a 1988 waterpump housing.
11-04-09, 07:57 AM
#136
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[quote=Viking War Hammer;9602992]
I bought mine straight from www.eastcoastparts.com . I didn't take any pictures of the backside but I think the website has pictures. If I remember, it's all billet.
Mine is on a FD motor, you just need to use a 1988 waterpump housing.
Very nice piece!
How do you wire it up?
I bought mine straight from www.eastcoastparts.com . I didn't take any pictures of the backside but I think the website has pictures. If I remember, it's all billet.
Mine is on a FD motor, you just need to use a 1988 waterpump housing.
Very nice piece!
How do you wire it up?
11-05-09, 08:02 PM
#138
Well my EWP is a Brushless design and has a 10,000+ hour life, witch if you think about it is 416.6 days of constant running, or 1.14 years of CONSTANT running (24hr/day)
On the Meziere site (witch is probaly the maker of that pump motor for the eastcoastparts) says this (Suitable for street or drag strip use – 3000+ hour life expectancy ) and the Stewarts pump says you can run there pumps on the street as the only cooling pump.
It uses very little power compared to the brushed model.
6.5 Amp draw @ 12 Volts on Startup and 5.0 Amp draw for @ 12 Volts after start for the Brushless
11.0 - 12.0 Amp draw @ 12 Volts on Run for the Brushed motor (IE Meziere style)
Either model will work
Here is my setup
I am also running evans coolant, my temps stay below 190F ALL THE TIME, NEVER HOTTER THEN 190F EVER
I am not running a T-Stat I use the fans to keep the temp of the coolant constant after warm up.
On the Meziere site (witch is probaly the maker of that pump motor for the eastcoastparts) says this (Suitable for street or drag strip use – 3000+ hour life expectancy ) and the Stewarts pump says you can run there pumps on the street as the only cooling pump.
It uses very little power compared to the brushed model.
6.5 Amp draw @ 12 Volts on Startup and 5.0 Amp draw for @ 12 Volts after start for the Brushless
11.0 - 12.0 Amp draw @ 12 Volts on Run for the Brushed motor (IE Meziere style)
Either model will work
Here is my setup
I am also running evans coolant, my temps stay below 190F ALL THE TIME, NEVER HOTTER THEN 190F EVER
I am not running a T-Stat I use the fans to keep the temp of the coolant constant after warm up.
Last edited by Rx7_Nut13B; 11-05-09 at 08:22 PM.
03-06-11, 11:07 PM
#142
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i bought my car with single turbo conversion, the large coolant line under the oil filter feeding the heater core was plugged, and the return for the heater line was also pluged, and all the heater lines removed, does this compromise anyting?...my buddy says its best to run a loop on it? any thoughts?
08-17-11, 12:11 PM
#144
awesome thread, thanks for all the info!
2 question:
- what are the maximum cfm that the stock fans can produce? (@rpm?)
- my fd3s used to run excellent but at present time i've noticed that every time there is load(even if i drive at 40 km/h or 140km/h, regardless of gear,) the water temp tend to rise from 89-90 to 96-99...but if i let the car role in neutral then the water temp lowers to 89 again .......so, is it a water pump failure?? or cavitation???
thanks!
(the water pump has only 1500miles on it)
2 question:
- what are the maximum cfm that the stock fans can produce? (@rpm?)
- my fd3s used to run excellent but at present time i've noticed that every time there is load(even if i drive at 40 km/h or 140km/h, regardless of gear,) the water temp tend to rise from 89-90 to 96-99...but if i let the car role in neutral then the water temp lowers to 89 again .......so, is it a water pump failure?? or cavitation???
thanks!
(the water pump has only 1500miles on it)
08-17-11, 02:11 PM
#145
awesome thread, thanks for all the info!
2 question:
- what are the maximum cfm that the stock fans can produce? (@rpm?)
- my fd3s used to run excellent but at present time i've noticed that every time there is load(even if i drive at 40 km/h or 140km/h, regardless of gear,) the water temp tend to rise from 89-90 to 96-99...but if i let the car role in neutral then the water temp lowers to 89 again .......so, is it a water pump failure?? or cavitation???
thanks!
(the water pump has only 1500miles on it)
2 question:
- what are the maximum cfm that the stock fans can produce? (@rpm?)
- my fd3s used to run excellent but at present time i've noticed that every time there is load(even if i drive at 40 km/h or 140km/h, regardless of gear,) the water temp tend to rise from 89-90 to 96-99...but if i let the car role in neutral then the water temp lowers to 89 again .......so, is it a water pump failure?? or cavitation???
thanks!
(the water pump has only 1500miles on it)
I replaced a fan motor last year when I saw it was not turning as fast as the other one.
Problem solved.
08-17-11, 03:10 PM
#146
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What is this based on? Knock sensor readings? I heard the OE knock sensor can't be trusted and that it is too sensitive. It picks up lots of not-engine-knock sounds. Is this range where people say, "I was tracking my car and then the motor gernaded" ?[/QUOTE]
While on the subject. I was driving my FD last weekend.. from when I started the engine to when i stopped 15-20min the IAT was aprox 25-30C. at thats at several pulls at WOT. it then was parked about 30min and the retur trip IAT was 50C... my guess is heat- soak ( or what the correct english is)... knock levels where the same.
outside air 25C, koyo rad + original fans, greddy FMIC...
While on the subject. I was driving my FD last weekend.. from when I started the engine to when i stopped 15-20min the IAT was aprox 25-30C. at thats at several pulls at WOT. it then was parked about 30min and the retur trip IAT was 50C... my guess is heat- soak ( or what the correct english is)... knock levels where the same.
outside air 25C, koyo rad + original fans, greddy FMIC...
08-18-11, 05:06 AM
#147
I think that Billion offers an electric fan speed selector..shall i try it or not?
08-18-11, 07:09 PM
#148
If one is turning slower that the other it is likely a bad motor.
Search on the forum (maybe this thread, I don't know) on how to force the fans on to high speed - it involves grounding the proper relay. I haven't done it in awhile.
You can probably figure it out from the wiring diagram.
Just one more thing to check - these car are getting old you know.
08-21-11, 06:32 AM
#149
All I meant was to make sure the fans are both working properly.
If one is turning slower that the other it is likely a bad motor.
Search on the forum (maybe this thread, I don't know) on how to force the fans on to high speed - it involves grounding the proper relay. I haven't done it in awhile.
You can probably figure it out from the wiring diagram.
Just one more thing to check - these car are getting old you know.
If one is turning slower that the other it is likely a bad motor.
Search on the forum (maybe this thread, I don't know) on how to force the fans on to high speed - it involves grounding the proper relay. I haven't done it in awhile.
You can probably figure it out from the wiring diagram.
Just one more thing to check - these car are getting old you know.
I'm a bit concerned about the water temp issue...cos my fd3s just completed its full restoration process..
