DaveW

I was looking for higher-quality exhaust gaskets (I've never liked the laminated metal ones - they always seem to burn out and leak), and came across the "Remflex" brand. I ordered the 3" ID #RF8006 gaskets thru Amazon.com. We'll see how they work.

I have no connection with them, other than ordering these above gaskets, so this post is for information purposes only. Here is some info from their site:
--------------------------------------------------------
Remflex Exhaust Gasket
Remflex's unique flexible graphite material has been proven for more than 30 years in industrial applications, where temperatures routinely exceed 2,000 degrees—day after day, week after week, year after year. Now, we're bringing this technology to enthusiasts of all kinds to eliminate exhaust leaks for good! Whether you have an old pick-up that needs a manifold gasket, or a race car with custom-built headers, you can be assured that Remflex exhaust gaskets will work properly the first time, every time.

The Remflex Performance Promise
Seals Warped Flanges:
Remflex exhaust gaskets come in a standard 1/8-inch thickness and are designed to crush 50%. This allows them to fill gaps in the flange surface up to 1/16-inch!
Won't Burn Out:
100% flexible graphite construction means Remflex gaskets are good for up to 3,000 degrees F—far exceeding that of any vehicle's exhaust system temperature!
No Re-Torquing Necessary:
Remflex exhaust gaskets rebound 30%, creating an optimum seal that eliminates the need to re-torque!
The Science
Remflex gaskets work because they solve the two main problems associated with sealing an exhaust flange: Warping, and gasket failure.

Warped Reality
A common misconception is that, if you spend a lot of money for high-quality headers with thick flanges, leaks will not be an issue. In truth, a thicker flange does help, but it can't solve the problem of warping altogether. Constant thermal cycling, especially in high performance and/or high-load environments, causes warping of header flanges and cast iron exhaust manifolds--even the exhaust flange of the cylinder head itself.

Once the sealing surface is warped, leaks are imminent—and once there is a leak, pitting of the exhaust port sealing surface usually follows. A new set of average gaskets won't fix the problem—but Remflex gaskets, with a 50% crush built in—can seal gaps as large as 1/16-inch. And unlike traditional gaskets, they won't shrink, so they never require re-torquing.

If you can't take the heat…
Curiously, the number one cause of exhaust gasket failure is heat—the very thing exhaust gaskets are supposed to withstand. That's because traditional exhaust gaskets are made of composite materials—blends of natural fibers and synthetic compounds that are bound together using rubber. Simply put, it's only a matter of time until the extreme temperature in the vehicle's exhaust system burns the gasket's composite materials away, resulting in an exhaust leak.

You've no doubt experienced the pungent odor that arises from the engine compartment after you install a new set of the top-brand exhaust gaskets. That's the smell of the rubber binders in the composite materials that begin to burn out almost immediately. And once the rubber overheats, it begins to shrink, as well has harden. That's why you are instructed to re-torque the gaskets regularly, and why an exhaust leak will develop if you don't. Remflex exhaust gaskets are made from 100% flexible graphite and can withstand up to 3,000 degrees F—so they are not affected by exhaust system, and won't burn out, shrink, or leak. Not now, not ever!
----------------------------------------------------

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

Nice find. They also have an exhaust manifold gaskets for the 13b.. http://catalog.remflex.com/product_p/pt58-001.htm At $23 from Amazon it doesn't sound like you can go wrong. I ordered one just to check it out.

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

Cool find.

I know that pineapple racing sells (or used to sell) graphite exhaust gaskets. I think I remembered reading some negative reviews, but I can't seem to find the links right now.

Definitely keep us updated. Right now I am installing a FC Turbo II gasket on my engine because it was cheaper, and I am single turbo.

DaveW

The one possibility for these to not work well might be blowing out with backfires, since they are thicker, and maybe not reinforced enough. I'll update my opinion on them after I get and install them.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

My exhaust has always leaked, after many new gaskets, replacing some of the components, using new hardware, torquing to spec and retorquing a couple days later, etc, etc. The flanges just are never flat enough for 2 bolts and a flat gasket to be adequate. It always sounds a little leaky and there is always soot showing a blowby.

I went through trying Fel-pro's best graphite gasket material between the cat and downpipe, and it fried in under 1000 miles.

I recently purchased some 3" exhaust gaskets made from copper. They have a raised ring that crushes to absorb misalignment. They're $25/ea, yuk. I will report on the results as soon as I have run them. I'm confident they'll fit the OEM and aftermarket bolt-in components, and take up 1/16" of warpage.

Dave

DaveW

Well, I hope the Remflex ones are better than the luck you had. At least they have a 6-month full refund/replacement guarantee.

BTW, IIRC, the copper ones are only rated to 600F...

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

These are made from an actual sheet of copper. The WRX guys use them.

It's not the 600° Copper RTV. (I have some and needless to say it didn't work).

DaveW

I knew that the ones you were referring to were copper sheet gaskets. But when I was looking (Google searches) for alternative gaskets, I thought the copper sheet ones I saw had temperature ratings of 600F. I could be mistaken.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I just talked to an engineer with the company. He says the copper is not heat treated, so they will work at temps in excess of 1000F. I doubt they would resist creep all the way up to solidus, but I'm confident they'll work from cat on back.

He said he would look into patterning the turbo-downpipe and turbo manifold gaskets if I send him some used ones. I think I pitched all my used gaskets, but obviously those are easy to come by. Whether they will work at the turbo itself (by far, the hottest sustained temps in the engine), will require a prototype and some testing. The price would easily beat the OEM price, but as you know the OEM gasket is very durable.

Dave

Rotary4tw

iTrader: (3)

I actually spent quite a bit of time speaking with the RemFlex guys in 2006 about making some custom exhaust gaskets for my Apexi-RX-6 b turbo setup. I have not installed the gaskets yet, but it will be one of my first projects when we take out our Rx-7's here in Minnesota.

I remember that they were not reusable, and they were expensive. RemFlex saved the template, so if any other people need that turbo setup, they will be on file.

I was very impressed with the company, and they product the ultimately sent.

I'll try to post some pictures of the gaskets this weekend.

DaveW

Obviously, I remembered that (600F) wrong. All the ads for these (various manufacturers) that say anything about temperature ratings say they will work at temperatures in excess of 1300F.

Dave

DaveW

I installed two of these in my RB dual-tip CB (one between the stock cat and the CB, and one in the CB middle joint). The Remflex instructions say to compress the gaskets ~50%, from the initial 1/8" to 1/16" thick. This took ~40 ft-lb of torque on each of the 4 bolts involved (2 stock rear cat nuts, and 2 7/16" RB mid-flange bolts), even though the contact area was much less from the RB flange to the cat flange.

After driving ~35 miles,with several full-throttle power applications, I rechecked the gaskets and bolt torques. The gaskets seemed perfect, with absolutely no sign of leakage or distress. The bolts had loosened a few ft-lb, so I re-torqued them (despite the Remflex claim that re-torquing is not necessary) to the 40 ft-lb and used wicking Loctite on the nuts.

So far, so good.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you can compress them from 1/8" to 1/16" using the 7/16" bolts that come with the RB exhaust, you're working with a much more forgiving gasket material than I ever experimented with. All the stuff from Mr Gasket I bought was stiff as cardboard. If it holds up to the heat it sounds like a winner.

I intend to install my copper gaskets this weekend.

DaveW

I didn't mention this in my previous post, but...

I bought a sheet of what NAPA had (FelPro ProRamic 2499), supposedly to be used for exhaust gasket applications. I gave both it and the Remflex material a test with my heat gun (~1400F). The Remflex material was unaffected. The FelPro material smoked, smelled like burning paper, and turned brittle and black.

The only doubt still remaining in my mind is what will happen if I have a big backfire, and will that cause the Remflex gaskets to blow out? Time will tell.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you're using it ahead of the cat I think the risk is greater. If you're just using it on the muffler end I think the temp/pressure is lower.

DaveW

I'm sure you're correct. At least, I hope so...

Dave

1souped7

I have used this gasket and I have yet to have a problem with it. I also have reused it several times. Very good deal.

DaveW

I assume you're talking about the Remflex gaskets?

00SPEC

iTrader: (9)

quick question, as i will be purchasing a HF cat soon.


should I replace the gaskets between the DP/HF and HF/CB?



im getting it from rx7.com--bonez, they have a gasket kit for 20 bucks but after some reading here I may want to go with the amazon.com ones.

DaveW

Yes, you should use new gaskets. Old ones tend to not seal well and leak.

Remflex gaskets
1. Make sure you know the sizes and bolt-hole spacings before you order
2. You may have to enlarge/offset the bolt-holes to fit properly, but that's pretty easy - it cuts easily with an Exacto knife or similar
3. Check other websites for prices - Amazon was best for me due to the free shipping for orders over $25 - YMMV. Do a "Google" search.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Dave,

I suspect this material is what Pineapple is now selling:
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ATS&Category=5

FWIW the pure copper ones are working well in the 3" flange joints. The pure graphite ones look better for the engine/turbo/downpipe connections though.

Dave

DaveW

1. Hard to tell from their description, but they do look similar.
2. Glad the copper ones are working. They would seem to have a possible advantage in a 2-bolt flange application - they may be more rigid and stable against flange rocking.

My Remflex gaskets are working beautifully on the cat to RB dual-tip CB and CB mid joint so far.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

What's really compelling with the 3000F graphite gasket is that we create the "unobtainium" gaskets that go between the turbo halves and that gasket for the precontrol valve hatch. If either of those start leaking you're pretty much hosed right now.

I've order the turbo/manifold and turbo/downpipe gaskets from Pineapple since my exhaust has always leaked a little there. I've spent dozens of hours and hundreds of dollars on gaskets. Boy would it be wonderful to finally find an answer.

Dave

DaveW

This one's available directly from Remflex:

http://catalog.remflex.com/SearchRes...14&Search.y=13

Dave

afgmoto1978

iTrader: (6)

I believe the Pineapple Racing gaskets are made of this high temp gasket material. I have them on my car for some time now and have had really good results with them. No blowby at all, even with my recent 34 psi overboost. See picks of the engine exhaust gasket after that event.