Best place to tap oil temp for gauge sender
04-20-17, 11:53 PM
#26
I believe the oil temperature when it comes out of the engine is every bit as good as measuring when it goes in. In fact, it is imperative to know how hot the oil is when leaving the engine, after it has gone thru the bearings. If it comes out too hot, it doesnt matter what the temperature was when it went in.
I believe your explanation of sender preference is your opinion, not fact.
I believe your explanation of sender preference is your opinion, not fact.
04-21-17, 01:01 AM
#27
www.AusRotary.com
BLUE TII has nailed it IMO.
To add to what he said, temperature uniformity through the cooling medium (oil vs coolant) is also a relevant consideration, as is the rate and place at which temperature fluctuations can be detected.
I had a mechanical oil temperature sensor in the sump which I fitted using a plate where the oil level sensor usually goes. I can't say for certain whether it was the position or the sensor itself, but the whole exercise was useless. It would take 30 minutes of driving or sometimes longer before there was an observable increase in oil temperatures in the sump, even though I could say for sure the oil had reached operating temperature (due to the e-shaft pellet and oil cooler thermostat bypassing).
I put this down to the time it would take for oil in the sump to be fully cycled through the engine and heat to be evenly distributed through the system. Based on my experience, I believe this takes a long time, as you effectively have a large reservoir of stationery oil, with only a relatively small proportion of that pumped through the engine and eventually returned to the sump.
Once the sump oil did finally heat up, the gauge would begin to register oil temp changes, but it took a fair bit of driving to get to that point.
It is like sticking a coolant temp sensor in the radiator core. Until the thermostat opens, the coolant temperature in the radiator could be sitting at 30-40'C while the coolant recirculating in the block is at 80'C. It is only once the thermostat begins to open and cold coolant from the radiator is metered into the engine that temperatures across the entire system equalise (UK/Aussie spelling, not going to use a z for you guys lol) and system temperature changes are properly measurable within the radiator.
To add to what he said, temperature uniformity through the cooling medium (oil vs coolant) is also a relevant consideration, as is the rate and place at which temperature fluctuations can be detected.
I had a mechanical oil temperature sensor in the sump which I fitted using a plate where the oil level sensor usually goes. I can't say for certain whether it was the position or the sensor itself, but the whole exercise was useless. It would take 30 minutes of driving or sometimes longer before there was an observable increase in oil temperatures in the sump, even though I could say for sure the oil had reached operating temperature (due to the e-shaft pellet and oil cooler thermostat bypassing).
I put this down to the time it would take for oil in the sump to be fully cycled through the engine and heat to be evenly distributed through the system. Based on my experience, I believe this takes a long time, as you effectively have a large reservoir of stationery oil, with only a relatively small proportion of that pumped through the engine and eventually returned to the sump.
Once the sump oil did finally heat up, the gauge would begin to register oil temp changes, but it took a fair bit of driving to get to that point.
It is like sticking a coolant temp sensor in the radiator core. Until the thermostat opens, the coolant temperature in the radiator could be sitting at 30-40'C while the coolant recirculating in the block is at 80'C. It is only once the thermostat begins to open and cold coolant from the radiator is metered into the engine that temperatures across the entire system equalise (UK/Aussie spelling, not going to use a z for you guys lol) and system temperature changes are properly measurable within the radiator.
09-19-18, 01:58 AM
#28
While this post is "obviously...old smh", I've been going thru all the 3rd Gen posts from most recent back just to see what I've missed in last few years..lol. Given that, I'm gonna go ahead and throw my two cents in on this. I run, have ran, for a decade at least, a high quality, additional, aftermarket, coolant temp, oil temp, and oil psi guage on mines. I have my oil temp sensor mounted just outside the front housing oil port. Driver side, coming out of the engine heading TO THE OIL COOLERS. My thought was to see how hot the oil coming out of the engine was. Now, while I've never seen oil temperatures so high I thought there was some critical issue gonna result from it, I have noticed that on high temperature "summer" days sitting in stop n go traffic, oil temps come up. Wow, imagine that...lol. Soon as I get rolling good for a few, they definitely do drop quite a bit. As others have mentioned, or argued smh, lol, above, differences of sensor mounted before, after, or why you would even care, etc....I think...yeah smh. I like having the oil temp guage, and I feel having sensor mounted where I have it has served me well. Saying that, if I've said anything at all, I will say this. A quality oil pressure guage WILL SERVE ANYONE MUCH BETTER. That is a guage I would not want to do without. Without strong oil pressure, you have nothing.