ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

For those who have added aftermarket engine oil temp gauges, where is the best place to tap for the sending unit?

Thanks!

P

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

Mine is tapped at the oil return to the filter pedestal. I bought a corksport banjo bolt with a fitting for a oil temp sensor.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

The cleanest is to use an oil pedestal like SBG, which includes a port for temp sensor at the filter. I have also heard of people tapping the oil pan.

Someone suggested to monitor after the coolers, but that doesn't make any sense to me. Do you monitor coolant after radiator? No.

Here's a thread with some discussion. I'm sure some searching would turn up other discussions:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...ation-1110790/

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

If you don't want to buy a pedestal. https://www.rhdjapan.com/feed-oil-pr...fc3s-fd3s.html

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Ah, clever.

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

I have the corksport version, looks like it is discontinued.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

There's a lot of right answers to this one. Depends what temperature you want to read. Temps going into the engine, coming out of the engine or sitting at the bottom of the pan? I prefer to measure the temps going into the engine at the filter which should indicate the effectiveness of the oil coolers.

briansfd

iTrader: (4)

With measuring the temps after the coolers, what then becomes your high and low oil temperature range?

*Found the answer, as of right now several people have stated no more than 200degF going into the engine.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

It would depend on the oil thermostat. Measuring temps post cooler will show the temps after it has opened. For example, a 180F Thermostat. You'll see your gauge read 178, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, then it will start to plummet...... very quickly. The thermostat will be partially open as it approaches it's operating temp so you may not see it get that high but hopefully that makes sense. You will always be seeing much much cooler temps than "actual". It also depends on how close post cooler you get your reading. Of course the oil is coolest as it leaves the second cooler. Imo, this is not an effective means at all. Unless you're trying to do some sort of comparison then you don't want to know the temp as the oil exits the cooler. It's not doing anything there other moving to the engine. When monitoring temp, you want to know the temp at or as close to where it's being used as possible.

As others have stated, oil temp and the filter is a good place. There's a thread somewhere on how to tap the factory banjo bolt under the pedestal to accept an aftermarket temp sensor. Another option would be aftermarket sandwich plate that sits between the filter and pedestal. It's what I use. It's cheap and effective. The only drawback is that the clearance from the filter to the tps plug is cut down. I'm forced to use short filters in this set up because I would be smashing the tps otherwise.

Pineapple makes a similar product and looks really good and I think FFE makes an entire replacement pedestal with the ports on it. I don't like the placement of the ports for the sensors so I wouldn't recommend it. If you want to entertain the sandwich plate route and use short filters then blackworks is the brand you want. Get it for a honda b series. It's the same pitch as our cars.

Johnny Kommavongsa

iTrader: (13)

I too measure oil temp at the banjo bolt by oil pedestal.


For the DIYers., you can easily make the same thing corksport had by tapping into a banjo bolt.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You dont have to tap anything. Get an oil drain plug sender. Replaces the drain plug. Easy in easy out. Here's an example:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-323-055

Not sure if this is correct for FD. You will have to check.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Better pricing here:

https://www.egauges.com/searchresult...323055&Submit=

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

What good is knowing the temp in your oil pan? Is there a threshold where oil pan temperatures can be too high? Danger to the oil pan?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

What's your problem? That is a stupid antagonistic question. A measure of oil temperature at that location is relative to temperatures in other parts of the engine. Its an easy install, that provides accurate information on oil temps.

Again, whats your problem????

bajaman

I've used the oil pan plug sender a couple of times in the past, back in my British sports car days. As Adam says...nothing simpler. And I can say this because I'm "one of them" but, it really is basically pretentious to have oil temp gauges. I mean seriously...whaddayagonnado if you see some "abnormal" temp? And what is "abnormal"? My TR7 would show anywhere from 250 to 285 degrees. But I really had no protocol for 'high oil temps'.
It wasn't like I pulled off the side of the road when it started climbing.
Now, I DID use it in conjunction with an accurate coolant temperature gauge and when I saw both getting up there say, while "dragging Douglas" (dragging main street in my town), it was a clue to get out of stop-and-go traffic and hit the freeway for a while, cruise at higher speeds to cool things down.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

No problem here. It was just a question. Obviously I don't see the logic behind that method. Not sure why you got so spun up. The way I see it, you're measuring the temp of the broth around the turkey to gauge the temperature of the inside. Yea it's all relative as in, broth temps can correlate with a properly cooked turkey. But why do that when it's just as easy to stick the thermometer INSIDE the thing and get a much more accurate reading?

Metaphorically speaking of course....

I'm sure a test can or has been done to show the variations is getting readings from various locations but as it seems, we all have our own preferences.

Also, the purpose of the oil temp gauge in my case is used to make sure my thermostat is working. I have an aftermarket set of coolers and one day, my thermostat failed and was stuck closed. This is something I would have never known about if I didn't have the temp gauge to show me. what makes it so crazy is that my water temp never exceeded 86c. Definitely got my money out of it. Imagine how long I would of been driving around with a failed thermostat.....

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Of course, you realize that every suggestion YOU make is "measuring the temp of the broth around the turkey", and and not " to stick the thermometer INSIDE the thing and get a much more accurate reading?" What are you thinking? Are you thinking at all?

The oil pan sender measures oil at its hottest, which is when it comes out of the engine. It is a perfectly legitimate place to measure oil temps.

Many people have water temp senders in the thermostat housing. Once the t-stat opens up, that will give you the hottest water temp reading. Would you tell those people that knowing their coolant temp at the hottest point doesn't make any difference?

What are you thinking? Are you thinking at all?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Don't tap anything. SakeBomb pedestal is the best and cleanest way.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Here is the thing.

Why are you measuring the oil temperature?

You want to make sure the oil temperature is low enough that it won't cause bearing failure.

You don't care how much heat the rotors are adding to the oil as that is an external process to the rotating assembly (post bearings process); as a matter of fact, the more heat put into the oil by the rotors and then cooled by the oil cooler the better for performance and reliability.

This is why you measure the temperature of the oil entering the engine.

If you are worried that the engine oil is getting too hot and degrading the answer is yes, it is- no matter what you do.
There is absolutely no way to stop this oil degradation when squirting the oil inside the rotors hot surface and then sending it through the two stage high pressure oil pump. Add oil capacity (like 7 quart competition oil pan) and change the oil often.

The rotor runs much hotter then the piston in even a 2 stroke piston engine as it always has a compression (heat load), combustion (heat load) and exhaust (heat load) stroke going to its one intake stroke (cooling).
I think nearly every developer of the rotary engine (including Mazda) attempted to use Aluminum rotors, but at the rotary engine operating temperature Aluminum is in its plastic phase and it distorts.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I would argue that engine oil temperature exiting the engine has a direct correlation to the temperature when it enters the engine. Just like coolant. Why would it be more important to measure oil when it enters the engine when we measure coolant temps when it exits? I don't follow your logic.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I think I see your point, Blue TII. The oil going to the bearings needs to be cool enough to lubricate them and keep them alive. Is there some temperature that would be too cool to lubricate properly? If 165F or 145F oil thermostats are available, would it make sense to use them?

By the way, here's a clever oil-related product I recently heard about:
Remote Engine & Transmission Oil Filter Mount with Thermostat ENV-170

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Because with coolant you need to know as close to the peak temperature of the coolant in operation as you possible because you are interested in keeping the coolant below its boiling point.

If coolant reaches the boiling point your cooling system is compromised.

If you you were really to pick a place to read coolant temps it would be at the rear rotor near the spark plugs. Oh, its already there- thank you Mazda.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

That doesnt answer the queston

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Yes, it does answer the question.

Oil is a lubricant in the lubrication system of the engine. You measure oil temperature to make sure the oil can still do its job as a lubricant.

The oil in a rotary also cools the rotor. The cooler the oil before it cools the rotor the better, the hotter the oil after it cools the rotors the better (you want maximum heat exchange).

You measure the oil temperature before it enters the bearings because you want to make sure it can still do its job lubricating the bearings (if it is too hot entering the engine it cannot).

You don't measure the oil temperature after it has been through the bearings because you would also be measuring the heat added by cooling the rotors.

You don't worry about the oil boiling (boils at 570 F) and not being able to cool the rotors; the oil is constantly breaking down and will be changed between races or 3,000miles.

---------

Coolant, coolant/water or water is a heat exchange medium in the cooling system of the engine. You measure your coolant temperature to make sure the coolant can still do its job as a coolant.

What is important is that the coolant stays below its boiling temperature, so you measure it at the hottest spot (near the rear spark plugs).

It is not important to engine health what the coolant temperature is leaving the engine after it has circled around the cold side of the engine cooling down and is ready to enter the radiator.

It is important to the ECU to have a slowly increasing/decreasing input of coolant temperature while warming up instead of an exact value, so the ECU coolant input is at the outlet of the engine.

You don't want to monitor or log from this sensor except to see general trends instead of actual values.

We are used to looking at this sensor value though since it is the input to the ECU.

dguy

iTrader: (8)

Mic drop.