Best mods to make my FD a track star?
#51
Senior Member
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No. The stopping distance is directly related to the traction of the tires. If the brakes are capable of bringing the tires to the braking threshold, it's then all up to the tires to bring braking distances down.
The only thing which would effect that from a rotor stand point is if you mount the caliper further out on the radius of the rotor. This can increase braking torque, but still the stopping distance is based on the tire traction as long as the brake system is working properly.
The only thing which would effect that from a rotor stand point is if you mount the caliper further out on the radius of the rotor. This can increase braking torque, but still the stopping distance is based on the tire traction as long as the brake system is working properly.
so you dont think that sloted would bringing the tires to the braking threshold faster then drilled one??...as the sloted rotor is heavier weight and has more surface area in contact with the pad...
#52
Wangan Nasty
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Again though I think it's pretty safe to say that if you're are tracking this car on a regular basis no matter what track you need a BBK. The pads and rotors will last 3 times as long so it just makes sense and you'll have a safer.
This is a car that didn't come with enough brake from the factory for road course work no matter what track you go to. However as mentioned if you're are just starting out you'll be fine for couple of years.
This is a car that didn't come with enough brake from the factory for road course work no matter what track you go to. However as mentioned if you're are just starting out you'll be fine for couple of years.
#53
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No. The stopping distance is directly related to the traction of the tires. If the brakes are capable of bringing the tires to the braking threshold, it's then all up to the tires to bring braking distances down.
The only thing which would effect that from a rotor stand point is if you mount the caliper further out on the radius of the rotor. This can increase braking torque, but still the stopping distance is based on the tire traction as long as the brake system is working properly.
The only thing which would effect that from a rotor stand point is if you mount the caliper further out on the radius of the rotor. This can increase braking torque, but still the stopping distance is based on the tire traction as long as the brake system is working properly.
#54
Mr. Links
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I think some people should do a little more research on brakes before offering up too many comments:
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/p...n/pfpage1.html
Again, if the brakes are working properly (i.e. bringing the car to the braking threshold), there is nothing else they can do. It's all up to the tires (i.e. you want shorter braking distances, get stickier tires not a BBK). The stock brakes are certainly capable of doing that. However, they aren't necessarily capable of doing that for 30-40 minutes straight on a road course. Once you address the heat, it's all up to the tires.
The "bite" is more about the pad friction coefficient and the position the caliper is to the rotor radius rather than whether the rotor has holes or slots.
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/p...n/pfpage1.html
Again, if the brakes are working properly (i.e. bringing the car to the braking threshold), there is nothing else they can do. It's all up to the tires (i.e. you want shorter braking distances, get stickier tires not a BBK). The stock brakes are certainly capable of doing that. However, they aren't necessarily capable of doing that for 30-40 minutes straight on a road course. Once you address the heat, it's all up to the tires.
The "bite" is more about the pad friction coefficient and the position the caliper is to the rotor radius rather than whether the rotor has holes or slots.
#55
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I think some people should do a little more research on brakes before offering up too many comments:
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/p...n/pfpage1.html
Again, if the brakes are working properly (i.e. bringing the car to the braking threshold), there is nothing else they can do. It's all up to the tires (i.e. you want shorter braking distances, get stickier tires not a BBK). The stock brakes are certainly capable of doing that. However, they aren't necessarily capable of doing that for 30-40 minutes straight on a road course. Once you address the heat, it's all up to the tires.
The "bite" is more about the pad friction coefficient and the position the caliper is to the rotor radius rather than whether the rotor has holes or slots.
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/p...n/pfpage1.html
Again, if the brakes are working properly (i.e. bringing the car to the braking threshold), there is nothing else they can do. It's all up to the tires (i.e. you want shorter braking distances, get stickier tires not a BBK). The stock brakes are certainly capable of doing that. However, they aren't necessarily capable of doing that for 30-40 minutes straight on a road course. Once you address the heat, it's all up to the tires.
The "bite" is more about the pad friction coefficient and the position the caliper is to the rotor radius rather than whether the rotor has holes or slots.
#57
Mr. Links
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http://www.regentsprep.org/regents/p...on/default.htm
The force of kinetic friction doesn't change when you add weight (or more force in this case). The force of kinetic friction does change when the material changes (i.e. the pad material).
The stock brake calipers, if equipped with the right disks, pads and fluid can go a whole 12 hour endurance race (when the Rx7s raced at Bathurst in 93, 94, and 95 the OEM calipers were used). This also depends on the type of circuit, the amount of ducts allowed, and the temperatures seen.
#59
Old Rotary Dog
A couple comments and thoughts here.
1) In an FD, if you are near stock power levels and aren't running R-comps, really aggressive track pads aren't always necessary. I ran for a few seasons (when I first started out) on Hawk HP+ and had no problem with pad fade.
2) Probably as, if not more, important is fresh brake fluid. I've seen more problems with people boiling fluid than pad fade (at least with anything better than a stock street pad).
3) I've seen too many cracks (and in some cases complete structural failure) with drilled brake rotors. No thank you. At least not until we start looking at some fairly advanced materials, and I don't think that anyone here is talking about ceramics when they discuss "drilled rotors";
4) I would strongly look at implementing proper brake ducting before considering the BBK. The additional cooling may be all you really need.
Just my opinions.
-bill "can never stay out of a brake discussion" rankin
1) In an FD, if you are near stock power levels and aren't running R-comps, really aggressive track pads aren't always necessary. I ran for a few seasons (when I first started out) on Hawk HP+ and had no problem with pad fade.
2) Probably as, if not more, important is fresh brake fluid. I've seen more problems with people boiling fluid than pad fade (at least with anything better than a stock street pad).
3) I've seen too many cracks (and in some cases complete structural failure) with drilled brake rotors. No thank you. At least not until we start looking at some fairly advanced materials, and I don't think that anyone here is talking about ceramics when they discuss "drilled rotors";
4) I would strongly look at implementing proper brake ducting before considering the BBK. The additional cooling may be all you really need.
Just my opinions.
-bill "can never stay out of a brake discussion" rankin
#61
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EDIT: supercar for that day = slxxx amg coupe, 997 porsche 911 turbo (probably 2005+ year), c5 vette z06
#62
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That is some really good advice. I was actually thinking of doing the same! Amen brother FWIW, a few years ago I was at Buttonwillow and one of the miatas there was driven by a track instructor... he was all over the "supercars" in the corners, I thought it was hilarious. I think the supercar drivers were really upset that this guy could hang with them thru the corners... of course on the straights it's a different story - but at the next corner, guess what? Miata is all over their *** again! Was great to watch, that guy could drive!
EDIT: supercar for that day = slxxx amg coupe, 997 porsche 911 turbo (probably 2005+ year), c5 vette z06
EDIT: supercar for that day = slxxx amg coupe, 997 porsche 911 turbo (probably 2005+ year), c5 vette z06
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