At a minimum dual R1 coolers. Perhaps look into the Gotham kit.

 

although if i had the money the rotary extreme would be the best setup. i dont see whats wrong witht the stock r1 oil coolers, besides those 34row oil coolers looks to big to allow any air to get to any part of the engine bay to cool it. Honestly go to www.car-parts.com & get yourself a nice set of stock r1 oil coolers for $340 and call it a day.

dont spend your money on something that will better benefit your cash

 

I just checked that site and it doesnt say that anywhere, its confusing. Please elaborate.

 

19 row is a lil small but 23 row is very large. 34 row is rediculous on a street car and may even be dangerous if lowered too much. The 20 row twin parallel sounds just right or a single 23 row simple, clean, setup especially if making it yourself. There's less lines for the oil to fow back and forth and less points of failure. You will be creating more flow by replacing the banjo connections allready, so don't underestimate a more efficient single setup.

 

Ya no ****. A single 34 row with nice lines, fittings and ducting sounds simpler, easier, cheaper, more reliable to me. I mean I did read that right, ya? DUAL 34 rows? WTF? Those things would add another 3 quarts to your capacity. Holy crap. Who runs those.....?

 

I didn't in any way insinuate that the members participating in this thread were lacking in knowledge. I am not sure how you inferred that from my comment.

You read an awful lot of "What is the best...?" questions. In this particular case if someone had before and after comparisons of oil temps with various kits it would be interesting. Numbers are always more interesting than anecdotal evidence.

That being said I plan to build my own kit. Besides saving a little money it will be an interesting experience. Oh, and I will be sure to get before and after temps for you guys. :-)

 

We just finished a custom dual 19 row earl's temp-a-cure oil cooler set up on our project FD. We put together an entire list of parts that we used for the install. We went with all swivel fittings, the mocal thermostat and the earl's coolers. I am sure that replacing some of the swivel with non-swivel and putting in cheaper oil coolers would reduce the cost significantly.

Here is a link to pics and the shopping list. http://www.banzairacing.net/efini_dual_oil_cooler.htm

What I have noticed it the oil temps have gone from hovering around 210F to just a hair over 180F. These have also brought my coolant temps down from 86-87C to 84-85C due to the decrease in oil temps.

 

I think the parraell setup work much better than inseries design, and the mocal 19 row is good enough for street, and put 2 small fan in the back of it so when auto cross it will suck the hot air out of it. hey Banzair nice engine setup did not know u guy's was still in business? It's been a while since I have hear or seen your products.
Khris

 

We are more of an engine builder and performance shop than a product manufacturer, with exception to our poly mounts. We do not spend a lot of time on the forums due to the amount of work at the shop all the time, but I figured I would post up the oil cooler parts list for people that would like to put their own system together.

 

As I have stated in the past, I think 19-row coolers are too small when used without ducting. The 25-row coolers are big enough that they are still very effective when used without ducting. There are no clearance issues with properly mounted 25-row coolers.

 

I gues I'm in big need of a dual cooler set-up. I see up to 220F on my single cooler set-up after some spirited driving.

 

Gothams kit was the route that I was thinking of going. I just figured that I could build one for a lot cheaper. Thanks for the info.

 

ITS A NATIONWIDE JUNKYARD WEBSITE (which is where i got my dual oil cooler setup) just put your car on the vehicle selection and search for oil cooler


you dont want to block everything else in the engine bay

 

If my oil were any cooler than 180F the thermostat would not open and I would be developing sludge. The twin 19 rows work perfectly with the Feed Type II front end. Besides there are different widths for all the XX row oil coolers, basing a decision on the number of rows is not feasible.

 

So what is an optimum oil temp for us? I assume 180-195F? What's too hot? I did search 354 threads and did not find the answer. Mine are 210F right now. Going to try some ducts on my custom dual set-up for help. Garret

 

At 250F bearing damage occurs.

Since the oil system is resposible for 40% of the engine cooling, I prefer to have my oil temps as low as possible without going under 180F.

 

ON THE STREET. Try running a 25-minute track session in 90F+ heat.

????

The oil coolers don't block airflow from anything else in the engine bay.

 

I will be trying this method...mainly to keep my fresh air ducting on the passenger side to the single turbo intake. (cost and simple are bonuses)

 

The 34 row is way too big! You will barely clear the tie down hooks with the bottom of the 23 row with the connections on top.

 

Banzai, any idea of how those hold up to rock abuse relative to the stock coolers?

 

I have heard that the CWC kit has been known to fail in the event of a 'bottom out' (pot hole etc) b/c the fittings are located on the bottom of the kit. Any truth to this rumor?

 

^ Max Cooper had some type of failure years back but i'm not shure if that was the exact problem or if the fittings just came loose. PM him for details.

 

Here is a pic of my setup

Earls 34 row, cant fit any bigger, Bigger is not always better but I have a oil temp gauge and my temps got too high for my comfort

 

I need to get a new oil cooler whats better R1's or a single a-spectuning upgrade? the single
Kit includes 25 row Mocal core, Mocal thermostat, all braided lines, fittings and brackets included.


thankshttps://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188412&stc=1

 

There have been cases of this with some kits. People (not directed at you personally) need to realize that a lot of these "upgrades" really are for "Track Only Use". They aren't designed or required for street use.