best boost controller to run with pfc???
#3
the power FC comes with a boost controller that sucks ***. it uses all the stock sensors that are shown to be useless. the profec B has to be the best and easiest for a decent price. if you are staying ses. then it is also a good choice to go with the profec b. the apexi avc-r is also good(is it the AVCR. there are too many 4 letter devices by apexi) but apexi states in the instructions that its best to convert the turbo system over to non-seq for ease of use. all others(havent heard about the newest greddy) seem to be poor at working. they might be "bling blinging" but just cant perform. i want to go up to the profec b as i dont care about all the little functions of the apexi unit, plus its just a tad more for the apexi unit. buy a boost controller to control boost. you dont need it to be a HP calc, or 1/4 time machine. makes me think about all the people that buy cell phones just so they can have cool games
kris
kris
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
I second that...I have the PFC and it does suck *** at controling boost...I was leaning towards the AVCR just cuz I figured stay with the Apexi brand but then it has so many unneeded features...I have the HKS Type-1 turbotimer that tells 0-60, 1/4 mile, stop watch, tide levels, moon phase, and all that. It sits under the dash and I never use it...I believe in simplicity...if the ProfecB is a high boost / low boost type controler then I am all over it. Plus it's cheaper!
#5
This is an optional kit for the PFC http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_boost.asp
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#8
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Originally posted by gohorns
This is an optional kit for the PFC http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_boost.asp
This is an optional kit for the PFC http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_boost.asp
#10
i need to find the issue of super street(yes i know im refering to a mag.) that tested every single boost controller even manual ones. they had about 126 dyno runs with all kinds of gizmos hooked up to look at boost control. the hks one did not fair to well. let me find it so im not talking out of my ***, well atleast without having good ol home made burritos.
kris
kris
#11
Rotary Freak
MY mechanic is going with the newest manual , hallman with a light ball and spring, that with a 15 lbs spring in the actuator instead of the 7lbs spring. This is with BNR stage 3 twins that he is modifing with a much bigger wastegate and other things.
#12
Eye In The Sky
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The Hallman is OK for lightly modded engine, not good for heavy mod or non-seq.
I am non-seq. Above 12psi boost, it would spike when boost first comes on. To get 14psi at 6000rpm, It would spike to about 16 around 4500 rpm. I tried diffferent
bleed jets with no better results. That is with a ported wastegate.
I got a Blitz DUAL SBC. You need the R version.
It is great plus has an overboost protection feature that really works. Now I only have about a .5 psi spike plus
4 boost settings. Even better than a Profect B.
I am non-seq. Above 12psi boost, it would spike when boost first comes on. To get 14psi at 6000rpm, It would spike to about 16 around 4500 rpm. I tried diffferent
bleed jets with no better results. That is with a ported wastegate.
I got a Blitz DUAL SBC. You need the R version.
It is great plus has an overboost protection feature that really works. Now I only have about a .5 psi spike plus
4 boost settings. Even better than a Profect B.
#13
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Hey guys, if I my ask a related question. What is the use of "high/low" or multiple boost settings on a controller. Wouldn't you have to change your fuel maps to suit the different peak boost level? Or do stand alone ECU's like the PFC+commander store multiple maps?
I gues it wouldn't run you too rich if you didn't really rev it far into the range where your high boost setting would be running more boost than your low, but then what's the point of running the lower boost if you are just going to controll the throttle more sensitively.
And if you somehow put your engine in danger, and wanted to lower the peak boost to cruise home,,, wouldn't you still be running rich without a different fuel map?
-Second question, if I may, since I'm at it. What is a "map sensor"? As GoRacer said "Apexi 3-bar map sensor". I know what a bar messurment is, just wondering what the "map sensor" means.
I gues it wouldn't run you too rich if you didn't really rev it far into the range where your high boost setting would be running more boost than your low, but then what's the point of running the lower boost if you are just going to controll the throttle more sensitively.
And if you somehow put your engine in danger, and wanted to lower the peak boost to cruise home,,, wouldn't you still be running rich without a different fuel map?
-Second question, if I may, since I'm at it. What is a "map sensor"? As GoRacer said "Apexi 3-bar map sensor". I know what a bar messurment is, just wondering what the "map sensor" means.
#14
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well **** ,that really spun me 4 a loop !u guys are more than helpful!i think maybe i'll go with the avc-r by apexi.although a friend has the blitz and it is a badass unit ! there is just to much **** out there to choice from!i know i want a something to have a few boost options ,but one that protects against spike is pretty damn useful!afterall ol spikey boy can really tear **** up !huh!!
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Originally posted by particleeffect
-Second question, if I may, since I'm at it. What is a "map sensor"? As GoRacer said "Apexi 3-bar map sensor". I know what a bar messurment is, just wondering what the "map sensor" means.
-Second question, if I may, since I'm at it. What is a "map sensor"? As GoRacer said "Apexi 3-bar map sensor". I know what a bar messurment is, just wondering what the "map sensor" means.
#16
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Originally posted by TD87
Map sensor = Manifold Absolute Pressor sensor. It basically senses boost or vacuum, and uses that info to supply fuel. Has the same function as a MAF, but detects pressure instead of airflow.
Map sensor = Manifold Absolute Pressor sensor. It basically senses boost or vacuum, and uses that info to supply fuel. Has the same function as a MAF, but detects pressure instead of airflow.
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Originally posted by particleeffect
Hey guys, if I my ask a related question. What is the use of "high/low" or multiple boost settings on a controller. Wouldn't you have to change your fuel maps to suit the different peak boost level? Or do stand alone ECU's like the PFC+commander store multiple maps?
I gues it wouldn't run you too rich if you didn't really rev it far into the range where your high boost setting would be running more boost than your low, but then what's the point of running the lower boost if you are just going to controll the throttle more sensitively.
And if you somehow put your engine in danger, and wanted to lower the peak boost to cruise home,,, wouldn't you still be running rich without a different fuel map?
Hey guys, if I my ask a related question. What is the use of "high/low" or multiple boost settings on a controller. Wouldn't you have to change your fuel maps to suit the different peak boost level? Or do stand alone ECU's like the PFC+commander store multiple maps?
I gues it wouldn't run you too rich if you didn't really rev it far into the range where your high boost setting would be running more boost than your low, but then what's the point of running the lower boost if you are just going to controll the throttle more sensitively.
And if you somehow put your engine in danger, and wanted to lower the peak boost to cruise home,,, wouldn't you still be running rich without a different fuel map?
#20
What boost controller you get really has no relationship with what ECU you have. If you have an ECU that can run your engine at your target boost, it does not matter one bit what device is controlling the boost to get you there.
The stock MAP sensor that the PowerFC uses cannot read above 16 psi or so (mine goes to 1.15 kg/cm^2). If you want to run more boost than that with the PowerFC, you need to get a different MAP sensor to be in control. Yes, you can just make the highest boost cells that you can reach really rich so they will be okay at higher boost levels. But that is far short of the ideal, and the car will run rich when you are really at the limit of the boost sensor. Fortunately, you can get the GM 3-bar MAP sensor and a connector for about $80, and it is easy to setup the PowerFC to use it. Search the PowerFC forum for details.
Many boost controllers come with their own MAP sensor. The boost controller will use this, but it has nothing to do with the PowerFC, so it doesn't solve the problem described above.
With the PowerFC, you don't need to re-tune when you change boost (unless you employ the rich-max-boost-cells-covering-for-inadequate-MAP-sensor tuning methods described two paragraphs up). Say you have a map tuned for your car up to 16 psi. If you run less boost, you will be using different cells on the map, so if you have a good map in the first place, you don't need to change anything. However, it is probably a good idea to tune your map for each target boost level you plan to run. If you have the boost controller set for 16 psi, you won't be getting a lot of feedback on what your fuel map has in the 13 psi cells. Tuning at both 16 psi and 13 psi on the same map will allow you to collect a lot of data at each of your target boost pressures.
The GReddy Profec-B seems like a great deal. All reports are that it works great, is simple, and costs less than the ones with more bells and whistles. I have the A'PEXi AVC-R, and it does some interesting stuff including some cool displays of various engine parameters. But it requires more setup and according to the magazine test mentioned, doesn't control boost any better than the Profec-B. It works fine, though, and might be a good choice if the other features have value to you. I have heard reports that the AVC-R can get confused with the sequential turbos, where the Profec-B seems to work okay with them. The Blitz SBC-ID (I think that's the model -- basically the best Blitz controller) seemed to offer the best performance (by a small margin over the Profec-B and AVC-R) in that test and has lots of bells and whistles. It is expensive, but if you want the absolute best controller, the Blitz seems like the one to get. I'm not sure how well the Blitz controls the sequential system. The Profec-B seems like the value leader to me, and sometimes simplicity is the best feature.
-Max
The stock MAP sensor that the PowerFC uses cannot read above 16 psi or so (mine goes to 1.15 kg/cm^2). If you want to run more boost than that with the PowerFC, you need to get a different MAP sensor to be in control. Yes, you can just make the highest boost cells that you can reach really rich so they will be okay at higher boost levels. But that is far short of the ideal, and the car will run rich when you are really at the limit of the boost sensor. Fortunately, you can get the GM 3-bar MAP sensor and a connector for about $80, and it is easy to setup the PowerFC to use it. Search the PowerFC forum for details.
Many boost controllers come with their own MAP sensor. The boost controller will use this, but it has nothing to do with the PowerFC, so it doesn't solve the problem described above.
With the PowerFC, you don't need to re-tune when you change boost (unless you employ the rich-max-boost-cells-covering-for-inadequate-MAP-sensor tuning methods described two paragraphs up). Say you have a map tuned for your car up to 16 psi. If you run less boost, you will be using different cells on the map, so if you have a good map in the first place, you don't need to change anything. However, it is probably a good idea to tune your map for each target boost level you plan to run. If you have the boost controller set for 16 psi, you won't be getting a lot of feedback on what your fuel map has in the 13 psi cells. Tuning at both 16 psi and 13 psi on the same map will allow you to collect a lot of data at each of your target boost pressures.
The GReddy Profec-B seems like a great deal. All reports are that it works great, is simple, and costs less than the ones with more bells and whistles. I have the A'PEXi AVC-R, and it does some interesting stuff including some cool displays of various engine parameters. But it requires more setup and according to the magazine test mentioned, doesn't control boost any better than the Profec-B. It works fine, though, and might be a good choice if the other features have value to you. I have heard reports that the AVC-R can get confused with the sequential turbos, where the Profec-B seems to work okay with them. The Blitz SBC-ID (I think that's the model -- basically the best Blitz controller) seemed to offer the best performance (by a small margin over the Profec-B and AVC-R) in that test and has lots of bells and whistles. It is expensive, but if you want the absolute best controller, the Blitz seems like the one to get. I'm not sure how well the Blitz controls the sequential system. The Profec-B seems like the value leader to me, and sometimes simplicity is the best feature.
-Max
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