jspec,

I'm curious what RA will think with the results..

 

Could be?? I heard from people at Jim Downing that it was 200+.. I don't remember exact price..

 

I think I'm gonna try the 2 piece 2mm Rotary Aviation apex seals myself. They sound promising!

 

yeah I agree with the stock ones because think about it thats what the engine came with and the company of course researched and tested different mm ratio's so stock ones sounds right, don't take risks

 

dont mean to hijack the thread but.........

i have a question about 3mm seals.... how long does the motor last? is there anyone out there with 3mm seals that have over 50 or 60k miles on their engine???

 

no rotary can last that long
jk im sure theres someone.

anyone run more than 15psi on the atkins daily? and not have there engine blow? i think atkin seals are just good for NAs or engines that run stock psi. i could be wrong...

 

I know there's someoe that's running 3mm's on 12 psi, on stock ECU with PF IC and Airbox... that has 120 K mi on a rebuild... total odometer is 210 I think...
According to owner it still pulls strong...

 

What about Hurley's "other" seals? Anybody ever try any of these? Are they worth it on a street car? At all?

Corner seals:
http://www.hurleyrotary.com/rcornseals.aspx

Duplex Apex Seals:
http://www.hurleyrotary.com/dutips.aspx

Double Side Seals:
http://www.hurleyrotary.com/rsideseal.aspx

And also, Direct Apex Seal Lubrication:
http://www.hurleyrotary.com/rsideseal.aspx

Sorry bout all this, but I'm relatively new to rotaries and I'm just trying to find a foothold on sealing issues.

 

i have run 20 psi pump gas (driven daily) with 3mm apex seals ...runs great no problems .....but i also believe 3mm is overkill ( no real performance gain ) i guess the 2mm is better because of less friction within the engine
also i ran this engine for a couple of months (8 or 9 not shure) then started 20 b swap
ive also use hurley seals but i believe they are too soft
and their corner seal originally had 2 springs ( that didnt turn out to well) had to change those rather quick
and ceramics are good for when you are running high EGTs it will hold a little better
BUT when ceramic breaks ,SAY GOODBYE ENGINE ,you will most likely have to dissasemble youre engine next to a garbage bin IT BREAKS EVERYTHING even scratches the plates real bad ,...and i mean real bad

 

My buddy Alan put over 75k on a 3mm seal motor before the coolant seals took a crap on him.

He had/has intake, dp, highflow cat, cb, fmic, power fc.

 

Yes if it's not the apex seals the coolant seals go, with a reputable rebuilder, if he knows the issues at hand, can help increase the longevity of coolant seals....
Like I said 120K on the Coolant seals and Apex Seals ... still running strong...

 

what are the best coolant seals then?

 

o ya i know, in my fc engine the coolent seals went, and i had plently of life still left in the apex seals. i was just playing around though, just throwing one of those rotary jokes.

but i think the stock seals are the best, i havent heard anything bad about them yet.
i know for sure im not going with 3mm, or 1 piece seals.
i want to be able to run high boost, with the right fuel and not worry about the seals not being able to hold the psi. i hear the stock seals can go well over 20 psi, i already stated this earlier. why wouldnt you run these seals?
im little confused why people go with seals that dont last as long or are known for not lasting.
atkins are very popular but yet they cant hold over 15psi?
i dont know what else to say i guess, those numbers pretty much talk for themselves no?


vosko was running t78, on stock seals, never had a problem with his engine. that might say something.
im sure theres others out there running stock seals with high powered engines.


there is no real good seal, they are all the same. the key to making those seals last is changing your coolent every year. bad coolent weakens the seals, and thats what happened to my engine. causeing it to over heat, not because there was little coolent but it would go into the engine from the leaky seal causeing lose of cooling in the whole engine. knid of hard to explain but just flush your whole coolent system and you will be golden.

let me know if im wrong in any of this, i rather be corrected then thinking the wrong facts.
thanks
geoff

 

This one mentioned differn't types of materials you could use like teflon, or silicone, the one i found the most interesting was kalrez...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=Kalrez

 

Everyone is looking for the silver bullet.

[sarcasm]
stock *can't* be good. aftermarket *must* be better.
[/sarcasm]

Quote:

vosko was running t78, on stock seals, never had a problem with his engine. that might say something.
im sure theres others out there running stock seals with high powered engines.
thanks
geoff

Not the greatest example. Vosko always broke all his non-motor parts. How many miles did he put on his rex? I'm guessing around 5k per year.

That said, I do agree. There ain't nuthin' wrong with them there stock apex seals, Billy Joe .

 

I have to vote for the stock seals, but I am very intrested in Rotary Aviation's new seals, from the initial research they look great, I'd like to hear what you find when you tare down your engine, jspecracer7.

 

Someone who use Rotary Aviation's seals ?

 

thnx for the input racer ill be sure to change the coolant at least once a year, hahahah, my failing coolant system has just put my engine in for a major rebuild

 

anyone else?

 

It's not the Coolant seals that are different everybody uses the ones that come with the mazda, gasket set... what's important is how you protect them from getting too much heat / chemical reaction to coolant, on the rubber, which as we all know from vaccum hoses causes them to fail... Think Heat Barrier / Coating the gaskets with something...

-DC

 

"Hylomar HPF

Hylomar is a non-hardening gasket sealer that leaves the tube as a thin paste which then thickens after a few minutes. This allows the sealer to be brushed onto each component with relative ease. Hylomar not only improves the sealing of the rotor housing O-rings, but it also effectively retains the water O-rings and seal protectors during assembly. Racing Beat has used Hylomar exclusively for over thirty years in every engine we have assembled. "

you mean something like this?
nabbed it off the racing beat website

 

So what kind of boost are the Japanese rotorheads running on the Atkins seals ? I see that you blew yours bec. of bad tuning. The guy that built my engine has run the **** out of the Atkins seals @ 26psi-30+psi with hundreds of passes on the track.

He's never blown an Atkins seals bec. of too much boost. Here's his 9 second Rx-3 w/13B Motor.

 

they are wonderful...saved my *** from bad tuning by xs mail order crew. I would use them again in a heart beat. they are expensive..but they were worth every penny.


j

 

I'm getting a core motor soon and I think I am gonna put the rotary aviation 2mm seals in them.

I wonder what would it be like to throw an apex seal while flying a plane. I couldn't even imagine.

 

my friend blew his cermaics with his GT35/40.. it tore the whole turbo up... anything going thru something that fast will most likely screw something up..

i'm interested in these aviationseals as well...