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Beat up jacking rail

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Old May 13, 2003 | 12:34 AM
  #26  
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally posted by dgeesaman
Whoa, those 4x4s scare me. The plywood bases add zero stability - it's really just balanced on the 4x4s
Tell me about it. I cringe every time I look at that picture.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 05:53 AM
  #27  
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From: IN
Originally posted by duboisr
My mechanic has put a steel piece on each side of each rail to make a sandwich if you understand what I type. The strips of metal are 3/8 inch thick and are as long as the rail and as wide. They are held together with several counter sink allen head screws. He can jack it from the center and place jack stands at each end. The bolts are drilled through the stock sheet metal ,the outside part is drilled and countersink the inside part is threaded for the bolts . Then it was painted black so the car looks lower . So simple to not have adented up rail
THIS is the way to go for REAL jacking rails, IMHO, especially for us track hounds who have to raise the car every other weekend to swap brake pads or tires. Jacking the car in the center spot to raise the left, or right side, would be slick, and saves time and effort. How about detailed pics? Do you think a body shop can handle a job like this? BTW, I thnk you guys are referring to the pinch welds, as your so-called "jacking rails". Actually, "jacking rails" are what dusboisr described in the quote above....

Last edited by SleepR1; May 13, 2003 at 05:55 AM.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 07:36 AM
  #28  
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From: Dallas
Originally posted by SleepR1
Jacking the car in the center spot to raise the left, or right side, would be slick, and saves time and effort.
That's exactly what I do by using the new head built for the jack. I jack the car about 12" inches back from the middle and raise the entire left or right at once.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 10:04 AM
  #29  
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From: Ventura CA USA
Originally posted by DamonB
That's exactly what I do by using the new head built for the jack. I jack the car about 12" inches back from the middle and raise the entire left or right at once.
Same here - I use an 8" long piece of 2x4 w/ a slot cut in the wide face to cover the pinch weld "Rail". The slot is just deep enough so the rail bottoms out in the slot and the flat part of the 2x4 is pressed against the floor pan inside the rail. I lift the entire side of the car from the center and then place jack stands under each factory jack point, just behind the front wheels, and just in front of the rears, (check your owners manual - it clearly shows them) I will try to post up a pic soon. (have to borrow a digi-cam)

BTW Jim I posted the Ultimate Garage Link 10 posts ahead of you

Last edited by maxpesce; May 13, 2003 at 10:06 AM.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 10:24 AM
  #30  
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I too am guilty off beating up my jacking rails.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 12:28 PM
  #31  
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally posted by maxpesce
BTW Jim I posted the Ultimate Garage Link 10 posts ahead of you
I didn't read back up the thread far enough before I replied, so I didn't see that you'd already posted the link. You didn't post a picture, though.

I'm interested in seeing this wooden rail system that you devised.
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Old May 14, 2003 | 04:51 PM
  #32  
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From: LA
whoa, i think i want that lift for my car. 3.1" clearance and has a 21" reach.

265

It better work better than the POS craftsman lift I have!!!!!
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Old May 14, 2003 | 05:57 PM
  #33  
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From: LostAngeles
Teddy:

Harbor Freight has one very similar, 3.5" clearance for $170.. plus there is one in Montclair.

Matt
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Old May 14, 2003 | 06:04 PM
  #34  
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From: Redmond, WA
Unfortunately, the Harbor Freight jack only has 3.5" clearance for about the first 3.5" of the jack body, give or take.



It gets much taller very quickly, so it's not really suitable for reaching far under a lowered car like the ultimate jacks are, and maximum lift is only 17.5".

However, if you want a lightweight jack because you need to transport it often, then it's a great deal compared to the $600 aluminum jacks sold by Griot's and other vendors.
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Old May 15, 2003 | 12:05 AM
  #35  
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From: Cali

How about this one? Its a craftsman one, is it worth spending the money or should i go with another one? Its only 88 bucks!
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Old May 15, 2003 | 12:22 AM
  #36  
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally posted by Justroln
How about this one?
They work just fine. I have two just like it.

They're on sale half the time, including two jackstands, so keep an eye out.
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Old May 15, 2003 | 02:56 AM
  #37  
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onboard airjacks are nice too bad they cost about 2k for a set of 4.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:16 PM
  #38  
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From: SoCal
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Beat up jacking rail

Originally posted by jimlab


http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html
Time to drag this thread out of the morgue...


Will the DK13HLQ jack slide under the front of a stock-height R-package FD and reach the front subframe --w/out resorting to ramps or other "pre-lifting" tricks?


While I'm at it...
Anybody try these sidlift jack pads on the FD rails?
http://www.protechproducts.net/images/JACKPADS.asp

Thanks!
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 07:44 AM
  #39  
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From: Hershey PA
I've wondered the same thing, but I figure I'll just start using the 2x12 'ramps' I have laying around. Then the Ultimate Garage jack will work fine. What's the height from the top of your front wheel well to the floor? I'm curious to see if mine is stock.

I'm planning on using similar jack pads - I have one on my jack and it's much better.
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