Battery Relocation Writeup
I must be tired...
11-25-06, 08:49 PM
#56
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If you call HIFI Connection or e-mail them they have a kit with everything you need to do the install of the battery. Contact Tony and tell them it's for the 3rd gen RX-7.
The kit includes:
* 13 feet of RED "0" gauge cable (SPRO0R)
* 3 feet of BLACK "0" gauge cable (SPRO0B)
* 5 positive and negative connectors (PROBATTZPT)
* 5 Clear covers (SPBCOVZ)
* 1 Positive battery terminal (BTPS)
* 1 Negative battery terminal (BTNS)
* 2 plastic terminal covers (SBTCOV3)
* 1 SBC 150 amp breaker
* 1 Dual Foot Grounding Terminal (SGT0NPT)
We all can thank Moconner for the write up, pictures and contact for the parts.
sales@hifisoundconnection.com
The kit includes:
* 13 feet of RED "0" gauge cable (SPRO0R)
* 3 feet of BLACK "0" gauge cable (SPRO0B)
* 5 positive and negative connectors (PROBATTZPT)
* 5 Clear covers (SPBCOVZ)
* 1 Positive battery terminal (BTPS)
* 1 Negative battery terminal (BTNS)
* 2 plastic terminal covers (SBTCOV3)
* 1 SBC 150 amp breaker
* 1 Dual Foot Grounding Terminal (SGT0NPT)
We all can thank Moconner for the write up, pictures and contact for the parts.
sales@hifisoundconnection.com
11-25-06, 09:13 PM
#57
Originally Posted by SAMIboarder
the link to the place with all the stinger hardware didn't seem to work in the write-up. but after some searching I found it.
https://app.infopia.com/Shop/Control...8075/SFV/30046
https://app.infopia.com/Shop/Control...8075/SFV/30046
only thing I don't fully understand is the breaker switch.(sorry, don't know anything about wiring) how many amps do these batteries typically put out? If you have a 150 amp breaker switch, wouldn't it blow all the fuses (like the main 120amp fuse and such) before tripping the breaker? or is the point to the breaker not to protect the fuses, but only a fire safety thing?
The stock fuses are electrically downstream and would not have any effect in this situation.
The reason for using at least a 150 amp breaker is that it must accomodate sufficient current for the starter.
11-25-06, 09:25 PM
#58
Originally Posted by Mr rx-7 tt
If you call HIFI Connection or e-mail them they have a kit with everything you need to do the install of the battery. Contact Tony and tell them it's for the 3rd gen RX-7.
Since installing this setup eight months ago I have not had a single issue with it, something I attribute primarily to the high quality hardware. I am also powering a wideband sensor, gauge lighting, and an aftermarket pressure sender through the power block (and still have four circuits to spare).
11-25-06, 10:08 PM
#59
Originally Posted by Speed of light
Very nice moconner. There's a lot to be said for craftsmanship, and I can relate to the amount of time it takes to do a 1st class job.
Here's a pic of my install with the (larger) Odessy PC925 in the drivers side bin. I also included a pic of the tray I made to hold to battery inside the bin. The flanges are attached to the front, left and rear side of the bin with bolts, and will contain the battery in the event the car assumes an undesired attitude--important for safety.
Another note: I ran the positive battery cable directly to the stud on the starter and let exisiting starter cable backfeed the rest of the system. It shortens the cable, simplifies the install, it's clean and it works excellent.
Here's a pic of my install with the (larger) Odessy PC925 in the drivers side bin. I also included a pic of the tray I made to hold to battery inside the bin. The flanges are attached to the front, left and rear side of the bin with bolts, and will contain the battery in the event the car assumes an undesired attitude--important for safety.
Another note: I ran the positive battery cable directly to the stud on the starter and let exisiting starter cable backfeed the rest of the system. It shortens the cable, simplifies the install, it's clean and it works excellent.
11-26-06, 12:47 PM
#60
Rotary Enthusiast
This is a great idea! When i get my FD this mod is definatly on the list. Theifs often use a crobar to open the hood, then disconnect the battery... which renders an alarm useless. Also it probably gives a lot more room in the engine bay to better aranges engine mods.
11-28-06, 10:17 PM
#62
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Originally Posted by moconnor
Cool. This hardware is definitely worth it. While using generic auto store components may save $50, the install will not be as clean and the wiring will be a lot more painful (and soldering may be required).
Since installing this setup eight months ago I have not had a single issue with it, something I attribute primarily to the high quality hardware. I am also powering a wideband sensor, gauge lighting, and an aftermarket pressure sender through the power block (and still have four circuits to spare).
Since installing this setup eight months ago I have not had a single issue with it, something I attribute primarily to the high quality hardware. I am also powering a wideband sensor, gauge lighting, and an aftermarket pressure sender through the power block (and still have four circuits to spare).
It'll have to wait for a week or so as I am building my motor at the momment.
11-30-06, 03:31 AM
#63
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Originally Posted by Mr rx-7 tt
If you call HIFI Connection or e-mail them they have a kit with everything you need to do the install of the battery. Contact Tony and tell them it's for the 3rd gen RX-7.
The kit includes:
* 13 feet of RED "0" gauge cable (SPRO0R)
* 3 feet of BLACK "0" gauge cable (SPRO0B)
* 5 positive and negative connectors (PROBATTZPT)
* 5 Clear covers (SPBCOVZ)
* 1 Positive battery terminal (BTPS)
* 1 Negative battery terminal (BTNS)
* 2 plastic terminal covers (SBTCOV3)
* 1 SBC 150 amp breaker
* 1 Dual Foot Grounding Terminal (SGT0NPT)
We all can thank Moconner for the write up, pictures and contact for the parts.
sales@hifisoundconnection.com
The kit includes:
* 13 feet of RED "0" gauge cable (SPRO0R)
* 3 feet of BLACK "0" gauge cable (SPRO0B)
* 5 positive and negative connectors (PROBATTZPT)
* 5 Clear covers (SPBCOVZ)
* 1 Positive battery terminal (BTPS)
* 1 Negative battery terminal (BTNS)
* 2 plastic terminal covers (SBTCOV3)
* 1 SBC 150 amp breaker
* 1 Dual Foot Grounding Terminal (SGT0NPT)
We all can thank Moconner for the write up, pictures and contact for the parts.
sales@hifisoundconnection.com
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...l/fp/SFV/30046
12-04-06, 10:41 PM
#68
there are Cable cutters that will cut wire like that as if it were butter. they took my uncles finger off pretty easily too.
then you'll need a crimper that looks like bolt cutters to do a proper crimp on connection for that guage of wire. a vice is not the proper method. then you use a torch and melt solder into the connector. but what do i know, I am only MECP certified.
But there are other ways that will work.
then you'll need a crimper that looks like bolt cutters to do a proper crimp on connection for that guage of wire. a vice is not the proper method. then you use a torch and melt solder into the connector. but what do i know, I am only MECP certified.
But there are other ways that will work.
12-04-06, 10:47 PM
#70
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Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
Anyone know how difficult it is to cut those thick battery cables to size and if you need any special tools other than a wire cutter?
Thanks.
Thanks.
12-04-06, 11:35 PM
#73
Ok, not to nit-pick, but I am surprised that you did not fuse the switched lead that comes from your dash harness.
You have everything else fused, but that. technically speaking, the power for the relays is small, but your switch power at the harness is not. If that small wire were to ever short on anything, it would burn. A fuse located within a short distance of the T-Tap would be ideal, since that wire is actually powered by the harness.
a funny thought on that is this: battery relocated to bin. the switched power for your second fuse panel is actually coming from your ignition harness under the dash, which gets it's power from the main harness which is powered by where your battery positive cable is attached to (now) which is located RIGHT NEXT to what the switched power is activating.... kind of a big loop. there is no other way to do it, so this route is necessary, but it is still funny to think about.
You have everything else fused, but that. technically speaking, the power for the relays is small, but your switch power at the harness is not. If that small wire were to ever short on anything, it would burn. A fuse located within a short distance of the T-Tap would be ideal, since that wire is actually powered by the harness.
a funny thought on that is this: battery relocated to bin. the switched power for your second fuse panel is actually coming from your ignition harness under the dash, which gets it's power from the main harness which is powered by where your battery positive cable is attached to (now) which is located RIGHT NEXT to what the switched power is activating.... kind of a big loop. there is no other way to do it, so this route is necessary, but it is still funny to think about.
