Battery relocation question... Does it matter if the battery is vented or sealed?
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Battery relocation question... Does it matter if the battery is vented or sealed?
Battery relocation question... Does it matter if the battery is vented or sealed if it is relocated to the rear bin?
I currently have an oddesy battery with ~380 CCA which has some trouble turning over my high compression v8 and im wanting to get something with more CCA. I dont mind cutting the bin to fit something bigger with more CCA. If possible i would like to avoid paying $180+ for an optima or something similar but i dont want to have problems arise because im cheap.
Any input is appreciated.
I currently have an oddesy battery with ~380 CCA which has some trouble turning over my high compression v8 and im wanting to get something with more CCA. I dont mind cutting the bin to fit something bigger with more CCA. If possible i would like to avoid paying $180+ for an optima or something similar but i dont want to have problems arise because im cheap.
Any input is appreciated.
#2
Sealed. Hydrogen is bad, ie the Hindenburg, plus it is prob not good for you to breath the vent fumes, it will def start corroding things after awhile in a small contained space like that. Some cars (newer caddies) will have a standard battery under the seat but the vents on it are connected to a tube that feeds the fumes out of the car.
#5
needs more track time
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It depends what the battery is made of. Most batteries are lead acid batteries and generate fumes that you don't want to be exposed to in a confined car interior. The Optima Red Top for example does not which makes it a good candidate for use inside the car.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php
I've had mine in the pass bin for 2 year now. Its awesome. I haven't had a starting problem since I switched to it from the tiny 680. Check moconnor's thread for details on battery trays and wiring and such.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php
I've had mine in the pass bin for 2 year now. Its awesome. I haven't had a starting problem since I switched to it from the tiny 680. Check moconnor's thread for details on battery trays and wiring and such.
#6
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I used an Odyssey battery that kept running out of cranking power. While my car was at a Toyota shop in Dallas (long story) the mechanic swapped it out with an OEM Acura Integra battery (year 1999 I believe) which I am pretty sure makes 425 CCA. It's sealed in the sense I don't have to add water, has a 5-year warranty that I can get replaced at any Acura dealership, and it set me back about $75 as I recall. I've used Optimas in the past but compared to the $75, it's a no brainer IMO.
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I know some of the BMWs came with a battery under the rear seat that has a vent tube. I was looking at a couple of them at the local parts stores but was unsure if i vented it under the car if i would pass a track inspection like that? ...or cause corrosion under the car?
If im not mistaking i already have the most powerful oddyssy battery that will fit in the rear bin without cutting it. I think im going to cut the bin to accommodate bigger batteries since now the bin is useless to me with a battery in there. Is it possible to cut the inside of the bin out while it is still in the car? Say with a dremel?
If im not mistaking i already have the most powerful oddyssy battery that will fit in the rear bin without cutting it. I think im going to cut the bin to accommodate bigger batteries since now the bin is useless to me with a battery in there. Is it possible to cut the inside of the bin out while it is still in the car? Say with a dremel?
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Racecar - Formula 2000
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Anyone know if i can cut the big out with a dremel without removing the rear bins from the car and without cutting anything else?
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I replaced my underhood (and underpowered) Odyssey with a "Miata" battery in the passenger bin. IIRC the Odyssey was ~220 CCA and the Miata battery is rated at 475 CCA. More importantly the Miata battery is a "GLM" design (Glass Layered Mat) and is sealed and does not require venting. Weight is 25 lbs.
http://www.westcobattery.com/miata.html
I only had to notch the outer/rear/lower corner of the bin to install the battery (not counting cable holes etc). The bin material is quite soft, I cut it with a carpet knife. I did take my bins out though, for other reasons.
http://www.westcobattery.com/miata.html
I only had to notch the outer/rear/lower corner of the bin to install the battery (not counting cable holes etc). The bin material is quite soft, I cut it with a carpet knife. I did take my bins out though, for other reasons.
#13
Racecar - Formula 2000
To cut plastic, a blade attachment on a soldering gun works pretty well, and leaves no "crumbs" to clean up.
Dave
Dave
#16
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Good call on the optima. I am currently using the sealed miata battery listed above (westcoast) and although it is a great battery I do not daily drive my car and if it sits for a week then that lil thing has issues turning the car over...
The rear bins are pretty easy to get out, as advised above the side panels pop out (do it gently, they are old plastic) and then the rear bins have just a few bolts holding it in.
The rear bins are pretty easy to get out, as advised above the side panels pop out (do it gently, they are old plastic) and then the rear bins have just a few bolts holding it in.
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True, but the intent (for me) of relocating the battery was to place near the center of the car and as low as possible. I simply cut a V in the lower curve of the bin and let the battery push it out like a flap. Otherwise the battery sat up a good 2 or 3 inches higher.
#20
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Here is a picture of my platform. The extra height is going to be about 40mm.
This center of gravity difference could conceivably matter on an F1 car but it will be about a million miles below the noise floor on a street car like an FD. Even if you were competing nationally at the top of a competitive race series I doubt this would have a measurable effect.
#21
touge******
sealed i used an optima red top it requires cutting the bottom out of one of the bins but i don't have an issue with lack of voltage or current. also instal a stinger 150 amp circuit breaker and use 0 guage wire.
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moconner, I fashioned a hold-down out of bar stock much like you did, but I encased the bar stock inside electrical heat shrink tubing, I was concerned about that metal bar possibly contacting both posts and shorting out the battery.
I have pics - somewhere...
I have pics - somewhere...
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