wstrohm

Post #16 said the OP is seeing 14 mA of dark current. That would mean the glove compartment light is OFF, along with everything else that would pull current up to an out-of-spec condition. <= 20 mA dark current is the Mazda spec. The 14 mA is probably the PCME power drain to maintain fault code memory. The dark current is not a problem. Something is pulling enough current out of the battery when ignition is ON or otherwise (such as radiator fan motors running after engine is off) that the battery is being discharged over time. (See my post #7.)

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Lots of these electrical problems can be intermittent. Glove box light issues come and go as you bounce down the road and the box door vibrates against the switch. You may stop one day and light is out, next day it is on. That's how mine was, made it more difficult to diagnose when I decided to attack it on a day that it was off. 14mA at the moment he tested doesn't really mean a whole lot other than it isn't a full time big power draw.

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

I listen to my pandora on my phone anyway haha no presets radio stations suck here. I'll check that out as well. Just haven't had time to get it done aka being lazy because I've been replacing my oil cooler and some other stuff

basedd_z32tt

You should check your grounds or possibly add a homemade grounding kit, my Z would drain its battery every 2 days..till I scratched the grounds for better contact and added grounding points.

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

Prepping the car to sell at a fair value, I just wanna eliminate the drain but somehow I think I might have the battery has been holding up. Could a semi-loose fuse cause the issue? I had a problem with my headlight fuses for the hid relay kit the fuse wouldn't make good contact. Now I fixed that. Weird...

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

Well I went on a long weekend trip and my car was so dead I got ZERO reaction with key in when I got back. Took like 30 mins charging from a friends car to even get it to turn over. Set my multimeter to 10amps and put it in line with the negative battery cable and started pulling fuses... Readings were 0.140-0.170 for mostly every fuse, but dropped to 0.110-0.115 or so when I pulled the alarm fuse. Still seems high as hell to me... Doesn't seem like any fuses in the kick panel or under the hood are the culprit to the drain. Could it be the ABS? Doesn't make much sense since the car is off while draining but I know one of my speed sensors is bad.

nguybao

iTrader: (6)

What kind of battery do you have? Some batteries are claimed as maintenance-free but in reality they still require to be checked for appropriate water level to fully cover the lead plates.

bufferovrflo

iTrader: (7)

My battery drains also if I let it sit over a week or two span but I have a quick disconnect on the relocated battery(replaced twice) which works for now. But to comment on your ABS causing it; I doubt it as mine is deleted and still does it. But hey, you could always pull out the wiring diagrams and go to town on it.

seven1997

iTrader: (2)

Could be a bad alternator short! Try disconnecting the alternator plug connector then measure current draw. This is sometimes overlooked and very well could be the problem!

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

It's not the alternator short, just checked that... it's not the battery either, that's brand new and in full functioning condition...
CHRIST!!!! I checked EVERYTHING I could think of... every little fuse, ever fuse under the hood, alternator, headlights, glove box, all the lights that come on with an open door... sigh...
Am i gonna have to shell out hundreds of dollars for a car electrician to do the same crap I just did and prolly tell me he can't figure it out either?
I'm on the verge of just taking it to replace the whole alarm system which has a ton of crappy wiring that i've already basically redone all of, yet there seems to be more little things here and there...
but would that really help? If I had taken the alarm fuse out it shoulda canned that as the potential problem no?
Am i right here that .110-.115 or so amps is still way too much? I should be close to zero or like .05 or something like that right?

nguybao

iTrader: (6)

I'd say pull your alarm out and see how the battery holds. I had the same issue with a draining battery until I pulled out my aftermarket alarm. I used to have to always keep it on a battery tender. Now the battery holds just fine and it cured my click click starting issue.

danewbern

Sound like the only option left is to abandon the vehicle and burn it for the insurance money. ...

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Maybe I should have suggested this sooner. Oh wait!!!!!!!...................... I did................

nguybao

iTrader: (6)

^ lol...

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I think I have to pull this whole garbage *** clifford system out and either rewire everything or send it to Clifford's main location by mail with a letter stating how much garbage and trash this system is and all the issues it's caused me. It kind of has to be the alarm at this point. I've checked just about every square inch of this car for grounding issues and loose wires and whatnot... Piece of **** alarm systems. Too bad I know nothing about alarms and installation or I'd do it myself but I think it's best I take it somewhere and get a different alarm installed. My driver side door lock doesn't always open with the key although I've fixed it 3 times already I can't make it last mre than a few weeks without reverting back to non-opening condition... So keyless entry has to be the way.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I pulled out my Clifford and probably still have the brain and remote but it uses a kill switch. If it's the same model I can send it to you.

I had the same issue with my truck. I had the alarm rewired twice. I installed a new alternator and new yellow top. It has a backup battery. I've had the shop keep it overnight and nothing. I realized the alrarm would constatly go off during the day when I was home. Honda with ignorant exhaust, Mustang with I think i'm cool exhaust, trash truck shaking the ground, all of these set off the alarm. Even though the alarm would stop after a few min, eventually it drained the battery. I completely disconnected it and left the truck sitting, then tried to start it and no problem. I had it rewired again.

I sugest you contact DEI and find a local shop that has a snake pit certified installer. Yes, yours is a Clifford and mine is a Python but they are all owned by DEI now. You may consider a new unit with all the relays and turbo timer built in.

nguybao

iTrader: (6)

Removing the alarm wasn't that difficult for me. I had a Viper (part of the DEI Group) and found the installation manual online. I just referenced the manual and the FD wiring diagrams to figure out how they routed the alarm harness. Just take your time if you're not comfortable and remember to wrap everything back up weathertight, especially in the driver side footwell.

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

Yeah im moving in 3 weeks or so, I may tackle this on right after I move. I wonder if its worth installing another aftermarket alarm maybe something more modern has these issues fixed. I hope it fixes my clicky clicky issue too because im selling this car unfortunately and its hard to explain to prospective buyers that all 3rd gens are susceptible to this... (Or so some threads on here say).
How much do you guys think having a reputable source (like that snake pit certified installer) uninstall this alarm and put in a newer viper or clifford should cost me? Including the new alarm lets say its a $199 system, am I looking at near $400 or so?

nguybao

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, I haven't had an alarm installed in any of my cars in over a decade, much less have a system removed. Maybe ask a shop for their standard rate for electrical work and get an estimate of hours to remove a system.

Rotary12Ahead

Invaluable information thanks guys