Ok I have done a lot of searching on this topic and I haven't recieved a definitive answer. I was wondering in my situation should I get a stock battery, mini battery or relocate the battery. I track my car quite a bit, road course not strip, and I am still currently running a stock IC. I am planning on going large or med stock mount eventually. I do plan on driving the car on the street to and from events and just the occasional spirited run. The car only gets driven one every couple of weeks so it going dead would be a real possibility. I can hook up a trickle charger if necissary though.

I was hoping I could find an Optima battery that will fit int he stock location but I don't know what it would take to make it work because there isn't a direct drop in. The mini battery conversion I have looked into is from www.rotaryextreme.com but it says if it isn't driven daily then it could cause problems. I have also heard they don't have a long life either. As for relocation, I have always been wiery to do mods to the electrical system but I could probably get it done if it would be better and more balanced.

The battery that was in there was from Autozone with a 3 year replacement warranty. It went bad with 2 mos left so I took it back and they gave me $90(they didn't have a replacement in stock). I just thought that I would put it toward a better alternative if I could/should. Any opinions welcome, except stupid ones and those I look down on. Thanks for your feedback.

 

51R with SS battery tray.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...bojeff+battery

Let me know if you guys want another group buy.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'd love to do this if this battery could work with the stock terminals ends. I would love it even more if you would give me a tutorial on how and what was used to set up the battery in the picture. Where did you get those terminal ends, they are nice.

 

Jeff, the link doesn't work since its now "rx7clubs".

I've relocated my battery to the passenger rear bin. I have optima Red Top using Monster 0 gauge wires. Also, you could lock your battery in the bin.

 

The link works for me.

It is a bolt-in, works with the stock terminals. No tutorial is needed, no modification other than a 51R battery and tray are needed for this tray. It works with Med sized ICs adding 1-2" of clearance between the battery and IC.

It won't work with the ASP Large IC.

 

I have the Odyssey PC 925 in the bin behind the driver. Used a Summit Racing battery relocation kit (1 ga. wire). Got the terminals from the place I got the battery (Batteries Plus). Holds a charge for more than a couple of weeks. Had to cut holes in the bins to run the cable, but the battery fits fine (on it's side).

 

I have an Optima Yellow top in the pas side bin. Relocating it isn't THAT big of a deal. Basically you drill a big hole in the firewall next to the throttle cable, run a -2 gauge wire behind the dash, through the center console, to the pas side bin. Cut the bottom out of the bin, mount the battery, ground it to the bolt hole on the chassis for the JDM rear seatbelts and you're done. You can buy the parts from a stereo shop for under $50.

I am extremely happy with my yellow top Optima. It has provided all the benefits of a deep cycle with none of the alleged faults. Over the past year and a half it has endured dome lights being left on overnight (still have to teach the gf how to shut a door), weeks of down time, below freezing weather, a motor that wouldn't start for almost 5 days of attempts after a week of downtime, a radio being left on overnight and has never failed to start the car once-the cranking rpm is always the same. IF it ever fails I am going to bury in the back yard with the family pets.

 

I was going to start another thread, but it works in this one...

I have the 51R Optima but there is no need for a reversed terminal in the bin. I do have Jeff's tray that I can convert to use in there as well but the battery only has 500cca and we are supposed to have 550cca. I thought about using a capacitor for both the engine and stereo but i'm not shure if that would burn it out or not but it seems that's what it's made for.

My other option choice was the Odyssey 925 because I can get the drag racing approved hold down tray, but that one is even less, it's 470cca. The 680 was only strong enough for one cold crank and two warm cranks. Forget about the fan mod with that little thing.

So i'm debating going with the Odyseey 1200MJ because it's 660cca. I'm not shure about the fit, since it's square instead of rectangular and the shape of the hold down kit. It's also 10lbs more then the Optima 51. Has anyone used the 1200 in the rear bin?

 

Jimlab has a good bit of useful information on how to do the bin relocation in someone elses thread of how they did it. No drilling of firewall and such and a very good routing of the pos. cable. In my opinion, down the road of future mods, you will need the extra room in the engine bay.

 

^ Yeah, I got the circuit breaker from that thread (but bought on ebay). I don't like the battery he used though. I would like to go through the fender like he mentioned, but would have to fiure out how to remove it first.

 

Fender stays on, just remove plastic inner liner

 

i have the hawker pc680 mini with 680 cca, def not enough to start the car when its cold out. ill probably be switching to an optima shortly

 

theres lots of good threads on this. but one thing you could do is put a keyed switch on the battery and just turn it off when the car is going to sit a while. no way it'll drain then. plus its a little added security.

 

I had thought about the switch on the battery or at least disconnecting the negative terminal when I plan to leave it sitting for a while.

Does anybody know how I can get in touch with turbojeff about his battery tray. I am definately interested in it. It seems to have a great build quality and the Optima 51R is right up my ally. Does anybody else think that in the mean time I can just pop that battery in the old tray just to drive to car to a garage to have some exhaust work done? Thanks for all the replys, this is the longest thread I have ever started.

 

Odyssey 680 is "NOT" 680cca ...it's 280cca and 680hca which means 80degrees or above. The required cca is 550.

The switch will not save your battery from discharging on it's own because they all discharge 4% sitting on a shelf unused. It will save you if you leave the radio or lights on though.

Unless someone relies that they've used the PC1200 in the bin, i'll stick with the 51R and prolly add the capacitor for cold starts.

 

I like the 51R for one big reason - availability. If the tiny battery takes a dump on you and you need one NOW, you're out of luck - time to order a new one. You can go to ANY place with batteries and pick up a 51R. Hell, go to Wal-Mart at 2AM and get one!

I'm running Jeff's battery tray, and installed one with an Optima yellow top on a customer's car the other weekend - look, fit, and work great. Can't argue with that.

Dale

 

Specs:

Length 7 in.
Width 3 1/16 in.
Height 6 5/8 in.
Drycell Battery
With Metal Jacket
12 Volt
16 Ah @ 10hr rate
220 CCA
680 Cranking Amps for 5 Seconds
24 Minute Reserve Capacity
Cycle life @ 77°F 400 at 100% DOD
-40°F to 140°F Temperature Range
Black Panther Predator BP-600MJ equivalent
More Specs: (Adobe PDF)
Catalogue number 0769-2017


it says it does 680 for 5 seconds, unfortuantly thats what i must have read when i ordered it and thought it was 680 cca.

no wonder my car wont start