BAD Turbo pre-control plug?
02-03-06, 11:39 PM
#1
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BAD Turbo pre-control plug?
ok, first up, sorry for all my new threads!
secondly, i have a theory i am looking to have people confirm.
i've been stuck at 7psi of boost until today when my turbo precontrol solenoid nipple broke and i blew out to 14psi before hauling off the throttle... i looked at it, and knew i couldn't repair it and i'd need to replace the part.
as a stop gap, i rerouted the hoses from the turbo precontrol to the wastegate control and swapped the plugs (which would theoretically mean that they swapped and should work fine)... i then routed a hose to bypass the (original) turboprecontrol which was now the wastegate... with me? swapped and bypassed the wastegate basically.
by theory, this would mean i'd have asteady 10psi until transition, then who knows what would happen... i was going to be driving below 4,000rpm anyway so it didn't matter.
this didn't actually do anything other than bringing back my 7psi problem.
does this mean that it is the plug/wiring to the turbo precontrol solenoid that is the problem? the car boosted happily to 14psi when that was all vented and didn't miss a beat... if it was a solenoid problem then theoretically the swap should have solved half of it.
so thats the theory, my wiring to the turbo precontrol is messed up or the plug is out! does that make sense as a theory? am i wrong to think that the 14psi singles out the solenoid and it's connections as the problem?
secondly, i have a theory i am looking to have people confirm.
i've been stuck at 7psi of boost until today when my turbo precontrol solenoid nipple broke and i blew out to 14psi before hauling off the throttle... i looked at it, and knew i couldn't repair it and i'd need to replace the part.
as a stop gap, i rerouted the hoses from the turbo precontrol to the wastegate control and swapped the plugs (which would theoretically mean that they swapped and should work fine)... i then routed a hose to bypass the (original) turboprecontrol which was now the wastegate... with me? swapped and bypassed the wastegate basically.
by theory, this would mean i'd have asteady 10psi until transition, then who knows what would happen... i was going to be driving below 4,000rpm anyway so it didn't matter.
this didn't actually do anything other than bringing back my 7psi problem.
does this mean that it is the plug/wiring to the turbo precontrol solenoid that is the problem? the car boosted happily to 14psi when that was all vented and didn't miss a beat... if it was a solenoid problem then theoretically the swap should have solved half of it.
so thats the theory, my wiring to the turbo precontrol is messed up or the plug is out! does that make sense as a theory? am i wrong to think that the 14psi singles out the solenoid and it's connections as the problem?
02-04-06, 06:17 AM
#3
I would directly test the wiring. First, look for ECU codes - they should be posted if the circuit is open. Second, I would test the resistance of the circuit at the ECU connector - 40Ohms, IIRC. Have someone shake the wires gently while you watch the ohmmeter, just in case it's a loose connection. If it passes all that, the electricals are good.
Have you been looking for a replacement from someone else in NZ? I'm sure if you asked in the right place (regional for sale forum?) you could scare up a used WG/PC solenoid pair.
Another thing to do is to move your boost gauge from the UIM to either the pc or wg line, so that you're now monitoring the pressure seen in the actuator. The PC should active from 3000 to 4500, and the wastegate should be active more above 4500. The needle might shake due to the duty-cycling, but it should be readable.
Dave
Have you been looking for a replacement from someone else in NZ? I'm sure if you asked in the right place (regional for sale forum?) you could scare up a used WG/PC solenoid pair.
Another thing to do is to move your boost gauge from the UIM to either the pc or wg line, so that you're now monitoring the pressure seen in the actuator. The PC should active from 3000 to 4500, and the wastegate should be active more above 4500. The needle might shake due to the duty-cycling, but it should be readable.
Dave
