please let me know how that sound dampening project goes. Maybe give an estimated cost for your whole project, and tell us how much of a difference it makes for you. I am also considering an entire sound dampening project, and wasn't sure what materials to use....please let me know how that b-quiet works out for you. I am also planning on using foam seal tape (for home windows and doors) on the various interior panels to eliminate some of the squeaking. Keep us posted...and I'll do the same.

 

Anyone know what symptoms a bad wheel bearing would create? I am thinking my noise may be related to that...

 

my bro's hatchback has it on his front driver side, as soon as he hits about 50MPG he makes a clunk noise as if the ball was ***** down and dont spin soo smooth anymore

 

Usually a droning, whirring, roaring, or rumbling sound that changes tone and intensity with speed. Wheel bearing noise also usually changes from straight ahead to right turns to left turns as the races are loaded/unloaded.

 

yeah what he said

 

Then I really doubt that is my problem.

I have another noise/vibration that is only felt at partial throttle at freeway speeds. I can duplicate it, and sustain it. I thought perhaps it could be wheel bearing related.

But a wheel bearing would probably make noise related to wheel speed and not engine load...

 

I used 2 types of noise dampening, 7 cans of the spray can rockford fosgate sound kill and a heat shield/sound damper from victoria british. It is kind of hard getting the carpet to lay down good and flat with the factory insulation under it but the floorboard is always cold and if you roll up the windows and shut the sunroof on the interstate you can barely hear the normally loud power extreme exhaust, turbo and bov.I am extremely happy and it out performs dynamat and is very lightweight. I did the spare tire well, inside of doors, under storage boxes,bottom of the sunroof, and the inside of the firewall wherever i could squeese it in.




Dave

 

So I countinued on my Saga last night with one final push to rid my car of this annoying rattle.

I was driving up and down my street...forward one direction and then reversing to come back (neighbors must think I am crazy) and I noticed the noise happened only coasting...less in reverse...and I could replicate it with quick stabs of the brake pedal.

I think this has too be suspension related and specifically related to load bearing parts. But what bares the load on braking? Trailing arms...I already looked at those so I looked again. The RP arms were in the car set up exactly the way the alignment tech left them. I noticed that the I-arm side of the trailing arm had a gap, where threads were showing on the trailing arm connection. I wiggled it hard (full body weight pulling up and down) and there was a small amount of play, accompanied by a click.

The chassis side of the trailing arm has a jam nut that goes against the aluminum, long rod section of the piece. The I-arm side doesn't have this jam nut so the steal bolt has to be tight against the aluminum. SO I screwed the aluminum all the way down against the I-arm side of the arm, lengthened the exposed threads on the other end by the same amount...tightend the jam nut (chassis side) and buttoned everything up on both sides.

Took it for a ride...noise was gone.

I came to the conclusion that even an experienced alignment tech may unscrew the annodized aluminum section off of the i-arm side bolt. Those have to be tight to be free of noise! Even with those tight, the trailing arm can still be adjusted using that rod end side (the I-arm side will just spin the pillowball, as the whole assembly is tight on that end)...then you secure the jam nut at the rod end side and all is well.

I thought that it was odd that I had the same noise with my stock arms so I looked at them...there was play in the chassis side bushings of those trailing arms. Which would also cause the same looseness...in the same part...and create the same noise. The planets must have aligned for all my parts to have the same problems, but atleast I figured it out.

Long explanation that would be simple to show someone. I hope everyone knows what I mean

MB25577...PM me if you dont understand my long explanation. I bet I can explain it much easier over the phone.

A big thanks to everyone for their time and ideas. Sometimes all we need is more ideas to keep us interested in solving the problem. Fixing it was such a rewarding feeling. I told my girlfriend like 10 times...I fixed the rattle! Even when we were lying in bed I was like...I am going have a good dream about a rattle free suspension tonight! She didn't like that much...but she will get over it. I was having nightmares about it before!


Sound deadening went well. I completeed the entire trunk area. I used foam from the craft store behind the rear interior panels, B-quiet Ultimate on every square inch of sheet metal I cound attach it to. Noticeable improvement but nothing dramatic. I am ordering more stuff and doing the main cabin soon. I will post a thread about my results as soon as I have them.

 

Wow congratulations! I've been following your thread all along, glad you fixed that sucker

 

I would also like to note that anyone with the aftermarket style trailing arms will get this noise if an alignment tech unscrews the long shaft portion of the arm from the I-arm steel connection bolt.

With all my weight pulling on it, it would only make a click...riding in the car you would think something was going to fall off it rattled so much. Just goes to show you how much force the weight of the car has, and how much force gets translated through that trailing arm.

 

that sounds believable to me....I get the same small click when I pull on the toe links or trailing arms....I thought that may be the problem, but never really looked at it more closely. Wondering why the noise was still there when you put the stockers back on??? At least I think you had tried that? I will go and play with the trailing arms and toe links soon and see if I can fix my problem too.

 

The stocker had play in the bushing end.

If you have aftermarket Trailing arms and toe links make sure that the jam nuts are tight against the aluminum shafts. On the trailing arms this means one side of the shaft is screwed all the way down on the bolt that rests against the lower I-arm. You will see what I mean when you look at it.

PM me if you want help and I can talk you through it on the phone. I hope this is your problem and is as easily fixed as mine was. I would like to pass the relief on to someone else!

 

CONGRATS!!!





Dave

 

Did you ever prepare the write up on the tein coilover installation?

 

Bumping this thread back from the dead... I had a similar sound when I was recently working on the car, and it was loose drive shaft bolts where they connect to the rear differential flange. This sound was more exposed when I was on off the throttle, and not on off the brake. So if you have a rattling sound when the throttle is involved driveshaft bolts could very well be your culprit.

 

----
I love intermittent problems the mechanic cannot reproduce.

Intermittently, my RX will make a light clicking sound (aft?) while driving along at moderate speed and moderate throttle. The clicking seems like it is related to the speed of the drive train. If I apply the brakes, lightly or firmly, the noise stops, and then after the brakes are released, the noise takes a little while to start clicking again. I haven't heard it at high speed, but then there is more blanketing sound. I have had a wheel bearing go bad and replaced, and it does not sound like that bearing.

Some of the chatter here mentioned loose brake pads... loose ABS, CV joints, drive shaft bolts, ... What would one expect to see if it is brake pads or ABS?
Anybody else experienced this and solved it?

 

I dont know...

I got rid of most of my noises after going to a different tranny and driveshaft, but not all...

Then I went to the LS1/T56 and assorted...and all my noises were gone.

 

2016 and still clicking.
Finally had it up on a rack with running gear running and a stethoscope.
Noise on the arms that hold the rear wheel in alignment.

Click about once a revolution suggests the CV joint telegraphing the vibration.
Doing new pillow bushings and shocks and will see if everything still clicks.

One take away: whatever is causing it can go on for quite a while without things flying apart.

 

Mine developed a "spring compression" noise in the rear after installing urethane bushings on OEM toe and trailing arms, and OEM Bathrust (blue) adjustable dampers with Tein S-tech springs... suggestions?