BAD probs with new motor
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BAD probs with new motor
Okay, just got new motor installed and started earlier. After fixing a minor fuel leak, it got it started and had some really bad issues with it. First off, my oil cooler line popped off, giving no oil to the motor at all. It made a really high pitched sound both times i started it. I started it twice because i thought i fixed the cooler line. The problem I'm most worried about is the fact that it jumped straight to 4k rpms and stayed there. I have a PFC and all block off plates installed, so no more double throttle or AWS. I need help asap, I wanna drive my car! If anyone has any ideas, please post asap or call me on my cell 812-528-3894, name's eric, thanks guys
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well i checked the sensor voltages on the PFC while it was shut off, and the only one i was worried about was the Fuel one, it was stuck at 4.98 volts. but it wouldn't have nuthin to do with it, that's just the fuel temp sensor and i don't have one anymore, i have the rx7store fuel rail. i'm pretty sure the loud sound wasn't a belt, my friend said the sound was comin from the side by the turbos, but i dunno. i'm just sooo worried about the 4k idle, i can't figure it out
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okay, got an update. i got the oil cooler line to stay on, started it again, the rpm's stayed at a good level and the whine went away. the other oil cooler line popped off and then the rpm's shot up and the whine came back. i immediately shut it off as soon as i found out the oil was shootin out. would a lack of oil or oil pressure be causing the idle problems??
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i finally got both the oil lines tight, to where they wouldn't pop off, they're a bitch. so basically, now everytime i start it, the rpm's automatically jump up, it makes a really loud screeching/whirring noise, and white smoke comes out of the engine bay.
the engine is from atkins (spare the flames). a guy at a local shop had it for his 7, but sold it to me cheap because his project was taking too long. i'm holding off on startin it any longer and callin all the shops in the morning
the engine is from atkins (spare the flames). a guy at a local shop had it for his 7, but sold it to me cheap because his project was taking too long. i'm holding off on startin it any longer and callin all the shops in the morning
#15
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Smoke from the engine bay...
Well it could be stuff burning off the turbos. It could be the belts like others have said (fits with the screeching).
For the idle, the AWS will give a 3K idle, 4K rpms would indicate that you might have a vacuum leak.
Since you put the motor in you should really look around at everything carefully before you start it again. Is the screeching noise a high pitched squeal or grinding scraping noise?
Jeff
Well it could be stuff burning off the turbos. It could be the belts like others have said (fits with the screeching).
For the idle, the AWS will give a 3K idle, 4K rpms would indicate that you might have a vacuum leak.
Since you put the motor in you should really look around at everything carefully before you start it again. Is the screeching noise a high pitched squeal or grinding scraping noise?
Jeff
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i tightened the belts and filled the power steering fluid and it still makes noise, i just can't figure it out. i have no more AWS or double throttle, i have all block off plates installed, no more solenoids, the rats nest is gone completely. my friend was watchin my fuel pressure gauge when it was runnin and said the gauge didn't move. the idle screws are fine, the butterflies are where they should be. i cranked the motor with the the fuses yanked so it wouldn't inject fuel or spark and the motor cranks over and sounds just fine, so i don't think anything internal is hurt. i'm at a total loss here
#18
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From your previous posts:
1. I'm not sure how the PFC controls the idle, but the stock ECU does in fact use the fuel temperature as part of the idle adjustment. (Trust me, I learned the hard way)
2. You mentioned that the idle was ok and the noise was gone after the oil line was re-attached, so are you or are you not still getting the same symptoms after the oil lines are properly installed.
1. I'm not sure how the PFC controls the idle, but the stock ECU does in fact use the fuel temperature as part of the idle adjustment. (Trust me, I learned the hard way)
2. You mentioned that the idle was ok and the noise was gone after the oil line was re-attached, so are you or are you not still getting the same symptoms after the oil lines are properly installed.
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Originally posted by Trexthe3rd
From your previous posts:
1. I'm not sure how the PFC controls the idle, but the stock ECU does in fact use the fuel temperature as part of the idle adjustment. (Trust me, I learned the hard way)
2. You mentioned that the idle was ok and the noise was gone after the oil line was re-attached, so are you or are you not still getting the same symptoms after the oil lines are properly installed.
From your previous posts:
1. I'm not sure how the PFC controls the idle, but the stock ECU does in fact use the fuel temperature as part of the idle adjustment. (Trust me, I learned the hard way)
2. You mentioned that the idle was ok and the noise was gone after the oil line was re-attached, so are you or are you not still getting the same symptoms after the oil lines are properly installed.
#20
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I posted before to someone else that had an upgraded fuel rail with no fuel temp sensor ... gotta do your research folks.
Change all your fuel temp corrections to be constant and install a resistor on the connector, or, change your temp corrections and install the original fuel temp sensor and leave it laying somewhere.
Change all your fuel temp corrections to be constant and install a resistor on the connector, or, change your temp corrections and install the original fuel temp sensor and leave it laying somewhere.
#21
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Originally posted by twokrx7
I posted before to someone else that had an upgraded fuel rail with no fuel temp sensor ... gotta do your research folks.
Change all your fuel temp corrections to be constant and install a resistor on the connector, or, change your temp corrections and install the original fuel temp sensor and leave it laying somewhere.
I posted before to someone else that had an upgraded fuel rail with no fuel temp sensor ... gotta do your research folks.
Change all your fuel temp corrections to be constant and install a resistor on the connector, or, change your temp corrections and install the original fuel temp sensor and leave it laying somewhere.
Glad to see some new knowledgeable people on the forum.....
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Originally posted by twokrx7
I posted before to someone else that had an upgraded fuel rail with no fuel temp sensor ... gotta do your research folks.
Change all your fuel temp corrections to be constant and install a resistor on the connector, or, change your temp corrections and install the original fuel temp sensor and leave it laying somewhere.
I posted before to someone else that had an upgraded fuel rail with no fuel temp sensor ... gotta do your research folks.
Change all your fuel temp corrections to be constant and install a resistor on the connector, or, change your temp corrections and install the original fuel temp sensor and leave it laying somewhere.
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