Back in the saddle......LOVE MY FD
05-24-14, 09:46 AM
#1
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Back in the saddle......LOVE MY FD
After 6 months with out my baby and tracking some daily driver type FDs it was so nice to get back behind the wheel...........seriously this car is the BEST!!!!
05-24-14, 11:31 AM
#4
Rotary Freak
That is a great race track and looks fast and flowing. Got a few tips for you to improve your driving . Don't shuffle your hands when turning in the turns place them before you turn in to corner and some times you will nearly cross your arms going through a turn. another thing you are doing is changing gears in or while just turning into turn this is upsetting the car and making you loose control slightly and see saw on the wheel ,you should be in the gear you want for that turn before you turn in and as you turn in should be on the gas pedal as well with both hands on the steering wheel. The main secret in driving fast is to be smooth with all things as you drive If you are smooth with braking, gear changes and your steering you will drive faster and in more control and do it easier .
I am not trying to be a smart *** , I am a race license tester and trainer in Australia with 25 years experience as an instructor and raced cars here for 35+ years .
I am not trying to be a smart *** , I am a race license tester and trainer in Australia with 25 years experience as an instructor and raced cars here for 35+ years .
05-24-14, 03:42 PM
#7
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That is a great race track and looks fast and flowing. Got a few tips for you to improve your driving . Don't shuffle your hands when turning in the turns place them before you turn in to corner and some times you will nearly cross your arms going through a turn. another thing you are doing is changing gears in or while just turning into turn this is upsetting the car and making you loose control slightly and see saw on the wheel ,you should be in the gear you want for that turn before you turn in and as you turn in should be on the gas pedal as well with both hands on the steering wheel. The main secret in driving fast is to be smooth with all things as you drive If you are smooth with braking, gear changes and your steering you will drive faster and in more control and do it easier .
I am not trying to be a smart *** , I am a race license tester and trainer in Australia with 25 years experience as an instructor and raced cars here for 35+ years .
I am not trying to be a smart *** , I am a race license tester and trainer in Australia with 25 years experience as an instructor and raced cars here for 35+ years .
yep that's a tight corner and you don't want to track out (ideally you should have both tires planted square on the inside gators/curb to setup for the next section) so I just let the car rotate into place.
Seriously these cars are magical, few things in this world can compare to tracking a nicely prepped FD
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05-24-14, 04:44 PM
#10
Is it just me or is the aspect ratio a bit off? Squashed and stretched?
Thanks for sharing, and nice driving. Never heard anyone say anything was wrong w the ole shuffle steer before.
Have you posted mod/setup info for this car anywhere?
Thanks for sharing, and nice driving. Never heard anyone say anything was wrong w the ole shuffle steer before.
Have you posted mod/setup info for this car anywhere?
05-24-14, 07:19 PM
#12
Fritz in your opinion, how important is the GT wing for overall stability? While I am building my car for a track oriented setup, I just cant stand the look of them. Have you had any experience with the 99spec or something like the FEED spoiler? I know they will in no way give anything close to the downforce or stability of the GT wing but do they help at all? Im having a custom front undertray/splitter made and have a rear diffuser and plans to streamline the underside openings as much as possible, but just cant bring myself to bolt a GT wing to the car 
05-24-14, 07:21 PM
#13
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Regarding the preset/shuffle steer you should visit the p car forums, if those hands aren't at 10 and 2 you are in serious need of driving lessons
I'm pretty sure I have my mod list in my thread in the racetech section
Bottomlline: approx 350 rwhp and 2900 pounds with me in the seat (I'm 150)
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...285107/page62/
Notice the BMW race car in the vid keeps pointing me by thinking I'll just blast past him, everyone thinks this car has way more power than it does which is why if I'm slowed down a little bit it really effs up my lap time
At some point I'll start a build thread but it's a really simple car compared to most in that section.
05-24-14, 07:34 PM
#14
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Fritz in your opinion, how important is the GT wing for overall stability? While I am building my car for a track oriented setup, I just cant stand the look of them. Have you had any experience with the 99spec or something like the FEED spoiler? I know they will in no way give anything close to the downforce or stability of the GT wing but do they help at all? Im having a custom front undertray/splitter made and have a rear diffuser and plans to streamline the underside openings as much as possible, but just cant bring myself to bolt a GT wing to the car
99 spec is also OK
Serious track guys today are running airplane wings so my wing is tiny in comparison to most of the guys I see at the time trials.
When starting out it's all about learning to carry speed, being smooth, etc.... the wing won't do anything until you learn to drive which typically takes about 5 years of 10 weekends a year or more to really get a handle on it.
Rarely does anyone just get in a car and start going fast it takes lots of time and work, all the track mods are just jewelry until you learn to get the most out of all those parts and the FD is a pretty fancy piece of equipment all by itself even when comparing it against todays cars so you have to be badass driver to drive it stock much less heavily modded with another 100 to 200 HP
05-24-14, 08:04 PM
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Rarely does anyone just get in a car and start going fast it takes lots of time and work, all the track mods are just jewelry until you learn to get the most out of all those parts and the FD is a pretty fancy piece of equipment all by itself even when comparing it against todays cars so you have to be badass driver to drive it stock much less heavily modded with another 100 to 200 HP
Love the vids! Makes the itch for a dedicated car to hit the tracks with that much harder to ignore. I'd love a bone stock RX8 R3 with tires/brake pads to beat on for a while
Jason
05-24-14, 09:29 PM
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Which is why i wont change anything major in my suspension until i physically understand and can feel what im changing and why I'm changing it.
Love the vids! Makes the itch for a dedicated car to hit the tracks with that much harder to ignore. I'd love a bone stock RX8 R3 with tires/brake pads to beat on for a while
Jason
Love the vids! Makes the itch for a dedicated car to hit the tracks with that much harder to ignore. I'd love a bone stock RX8 R3 with tires/brake pads to beat on for a while
Jason
I like the RX8 plan
When I started out I'd drive any and every FD I could get my hands on from bone stock to track prepped single turbo cars which was a great learning experience.
05-25-14, 08:51 AM
#17
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Basic setup/mod list
Brakes:
Front: Brembo GT kit with PFC front pads: Used to run 01s but they are hell on rotors so I'm leaning more toward 06s (may not make them anymore) but my understanding is the 08s are good but either 6s or 8s are slower than 1s so as always it's a give and take scenario. Update: just tried the PFC 08s and they work well.
Rear: 99 kit with Hawke blues.
To lay down a good time I'd go with PFC 01 front and DTC 60 rear but both crack my rotors sooner than later.
Susp: Tein super racing coilovers (794 springs at each corner) and I really like these because they are durable and work well. Not the very best but by no means junk either and very economical (approx 3k). Tri point front bar .188 wall thickness currently set in the middle with the oem 93 bar out back. 93 bar is thicker than 94 or 95 and is the perfect rear bar IMO it may also be hallow because it feels light. M2 toe links but ran stock for years until they developed too much play.
Wheels and tires: SSR comps very light approx 16.5 pounds (shame they are no longer made) 17x9.5 plus 42 with 275 40 17 hankooks or Hoos however Pete just informed me that Hoosier is now making a 275 35 17 which will go on next because I'll be able to lower my car 1 inch which is HUGE!!!!!. Tried the A6 and found no improvement over c71 but not fair to compare because the alignment was off and the driver was tired (up late having a trans installed/no sleep).
Engine:
Med street port and otherwise stock. I may use the soft seals on the new build. Update Jonathan of eccentric performance GAVE me some soft seals to try out and so far so good. I need EP and PFS stickers on the car
t04r turbo running 9 or 10 psi boost at this time but may crank it up once i get the diff sorted out. Diff is overheating and leaking constantly. Diff cooler along with cage redo will take place at piper motorsports in the next few weeks.
Driveline: 4.4 carbonetics 1.5 way diff, stock trans with trans cooler. Diff is overheating and needs a cooler and should have one by the next event. B&M short shifter
Upgraded PPF extra braces welded all over the place
Fuel: Apexi BNR fuel pump in a late model jdm gas tank (improved baffles) with 1300 secondaries and 550 primaries (pump not wired to battery still has stock wiring)
PFC tuned by PFS est power at 350 with boost at 9 or 10 psi (currently shows 379 on PFS dyno but his dyno is not a heart breaker but a smile maker)
RE big vmount with custom ducting water doesn't go over 90c and air doesn't go over 55c.
Dual 25 row oil coolers with custom ducting
Aero: GTC front bumper and rear wing and I just added knock off REA rear diffuser. Plan to add a larger GT wing at some point.
Interior: Custom piper motorsports cage going in soon, Race tech halo drivers seat, recaro profi passenger seat, boost/fp/oil and water temp gauges.
Front: Brembo GT kit with PFC front pads: Used to run 01s but they are hell on rotors so I'm leaning more toward 06s (may not make them anymore) but my understanding is the 08s are good but either 6s or 8s are slower than 1s so as always it's a give and take scenario. Update: just tried the PFC 08s and they work well.
Rear: 99 kit with Hawke blues.
To lay down a good time I'd go with PFC 01 front and DTC 60 rear but both crack my rotors sooner than later.
Susp: Tein super racing coilovers (794 springs at each corner) and I really like these because they are durable and work well. Not the very best but by no means junk either and very economical (approx 3k). Tri point front bar .188 wall thickness currently set in the middle with the oem 93 bar out back. 93 bar is thicker than 94 or 95 and is the perfect rear bar IMO it may also be hallow because it feels light. M2 toe links but ran stock for years until they developed too much play.
Wheels and tires: SSR comps very light approx 16.5 pounds (shame they are no longer made) 17x9.5 plus 42 with 275 40 17 hankooks or Hoos however Pete just informed me that Hoosier is now making a 275 35 17 which will go on next because I'll be able to lower my car 1 inch which is HUGE!!!!!. Tried the A6 and found no improvement over c71 but not fair to compare because the alignment was off and the driver was tired (up late having a trans installed/no sleep).
Engine:
Med street port and otherwise stock. I may use the soft seals on the new build. Update Jonathan of eccentric performance GAVE me some soft seals to try out and so far so good. I need EP and PFS stickers on the car
t04r turbo running 9 or 10 psi boost at this time but may crank it up once i get the diff sorted out. Diff is overheating and leaking constantly. Diff cooler along with cage redo will take place at piper motorsports in the next few weeks.
Driveline: 4.4 carbonetics 1.5 way diff, stock trans with trans cooler. Diff is overheating and needs a cooler and should have one by the next event. B&M short shifter
Upgraded PPF extra braces welded all over the place
Fuel: Apexi BNR fuel pump in a late model jdm gas tank (improved baffles) with 1300 secondaries and 550 primaries (pump not wired to battery still has stock wiring)
PFC tuned by PFS est power at 350 with boost at 9 or 10 psi (currently shows 379 on PFS dyno but his dyno is not a heart breaker but a smile maker)
RE big vmount with custom ducting water doesn't go over 90c and air doesn't go over 55c.
Dual 25 row oil coolers with custom ducting
Aero: GTC front bumper and rear wing and I just added knock off REA rear diffuser. Plan to add a larger GT wing at some point.
Interior: Custom piper motorsports cage going in soon, Race tech halo drivers seat, recaro profi passenger seat, boost/fp/oil and water temp gauges.
05-25-14, 10:07 AM
#19
Fritz,
You may already know this but GReddy makes a Diff cover for the FD with bungs for a cooler. Also it has more fluid capacity. The LACK OF ENOUGH FLUID in itself is the biggest contributer on why the fluid overheats. The cover alone may solve the issue without adding a cooler but makes adding a cooler simple regardless.
Btw I send you a fun video in your email
You may already know this but GReddy makes a Diff cover for the FD with bungs for a cooler. Also it has more fluid capacity. The LACK OF ENOUGH FLUID in itself is the biggest contributer on why the fluid overheats. The cover alone may solve the issue without adding a cooler but makes adding a cooler simple regardless.
Btw I send you a fun video in your email
05-25-14, 11:22 AM
#21
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Fritz,
You may already know this but GReddy makes a Diff cover for the FD with bungs for a cooler. Also it has more fluid capacity. The LACK OF ENOUGH FLUID in itself is the biggest contributer on why the fluid overheats. The cover alone may solve the issue without adding a cooler but makes adding a cooler simple regardless.
Btw I send you a fun video in your email
You may already know this but GReddy makes a Diff cover for the FD with bungs for a cooler. Also it has more fluid capacity. The LACK OF ENOUGH FLUID in itself is the biggest contributer on why the fluid overheats. The cover alone may solve the issue without adding a cooler but makes adding a cooler simple regardless.
Btw I send you a fun video in your email
Yep, I have the greddy cover which was on Carol's old diff and is actually why it won't stop leaking.
Usually the stock diff overheats and starts leaking but then I can tighten the drain bolt it will seal. With this damn greddy cover I can't get a seal on the drain bolt and two different shops have tried to get it to seal with no success
Likely the cover is getting hotter than the stock cover because of the extra fluid and the aluminum/threads versus steel bolt contract at different rates and the bolt won't seal.The cooler is the answer. Every time I drain my diff the fluid is toasted.
Will check email and get back to you
05-25-14, 04:55 PM
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Noob question fritz, but how do you actually know that your diff is overheating? Do you touch the cover after a couple of runs around the track?
Also your ping and ring at 4.4 must have greatly improved your acceleration in the mid range of the car correct but did you loose a lot of your top end?
In your videos the cars around you seem to be always at a stand still...
Andrew
Also your ping and ring at 4.4 must have greatly improved your acceleration in the mid range of the car correct but did you loose a lot of your top end?
In your videos the cars around you seem to be always at a stand still...
Andrew