And im looking for a write up on how to do the poormans untill i get the time to go full. ( after turbo rebuild).. ive been fighting and fighting with issues relating to boost problems and vaccum leaks so i want to go non seq.. However im looking for a good write up on the poor mans version. Ive been to variuous sites but nothing that explains in slight/moderate detail on what to do.. can somemone link me ( yes ive searched but couldnt find anything i didnt already know ). Thanks.

 

try this thread, although there are HEAPS more


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...non+sequential

 

What's the Boost problem?? How do you know it's a vacuum leak, and not a crossed hose or solenoid??

 

ive double and tripple checked my wiring per diagrams and pictures from how to sites. i guess it could be a soleniod but goddamn!! (wouldnt that throw a cel?)

 

welcome to the darkside.......muahahahaha!!!!

 

The poor mans non sequential.

Step 1.
Remove the turbo control actuator (TCA) and plug the lines with some bolts and zip ties.
Step 2.
Wire the TCA flapper door open (towards the front of the car)
Step3.
"T" the blow off and charge relief valve lvacum lines together, plug the remaining vacum line that runs from the charge relief valve to the lower intake manifold
Step4.
Remove the two vacum lines to the charge control valve and plug the remaining vacum lines.
(one from the y pipe to the charge control valve & one from the LIM to the charge control valve)
Step5.
Remove the black plastic pressure tank & plug the remaining vacum lines to the precontrol solinoid.
You should have a total of seven vacum lines plugged
Two off the LIM, one off the "Y" pipe, two off the hardpipe and two from the TCA (turbo control actuator)


-Dave

 

No, not necessarily. It only throws a code if the electrical connection is terminated.

More often than not, solenoids will fail internally. They stick one way or the other and do not allow the proper vac/pres flow. This will NOT throw a code. Check them.

Oh, and as a side thought, also be sure to check them while hot (take them out and throw em in the oven or hot water). I have had numerous failures where the solenoid operated normally at cold temps, but would fail when the car heats up.

Rob

 

You don't need a turbo rebuild, Yours are 100% fine. They only have 61,000 miles on them. (I even watched you drive away) Ihope you haven't been talking to Will? Can you say scam?