I have a 93 rx7 r1 it auto but still a 7 (im saving up for a 5 speed) any ways from a dead stop my car feels slower then my civic ill step on it hard and it wont cherp the tires it just does fast crawl and then it shift at about 5500-6000rpm when it shift to second it will get a second gear scratch and then start pulling hard so i was woundering what people are running with a auto tranny and a street port, down, pipe, and an afc the motor was just rebuilt about 2000-5000 miles ago

it just seams like its has nothing off the line and then shifts early i dont know if its the rock hard suspension of the r1 thats making it feel slow or what but how do i get it to shift later on at red 7000rpm

which lead me to my second ? why do some fds say they red at 7000 and some say 7500 and others say 8000 which is it arnt they all the same engine? what do most people shift at?

 

It's not an R-1 if it's an Auto. Unless it was converted from 5-Speed to Auto. (I really don't see that happening!!) Anyway, a little Turbo lag at launch at low RPM and 3.90 gears in the rear have alot to do with the slow jump. Have you tried manual shifting using the Hold feature??

What makes you think it's an R-1.??

 

My auto will redline at 7k in 1st and if I am pulling out onto the highway in first with it nailed it gets sideways fast , especially when the 2nd turbo hits at 5k lookout.

 

im not sure how to use the hold button! the ladie i bought it off of said it was an r1 it doesnt have leather it has the r1 seats it has black int and it rides... well just not the smoothest it has 2 oil coolers it also has the front spoiler are you sure r1 arnt auto? oh ya it doesnt have the bose speakers in it

 

what all is done to you fd? that it will get sideways with an lsd rearend stock

 

Almost positive that the R-1 was only offered in a Manual Tranny. One of the "2 oil coolers" you refer too is probably the Tranny Oil Cooler.

Any base model FD can be accessorized/modified to look identical to an R-1. Run a VIN on the vehicle and it will be the truth teller.

 

I have done a downpipe and catback , sold the 18s I had and Im running on stock wheels and tires. Thats all the mods I have. I thought all fds hauled *** like that.

 

ill have to take it to mazda to run the vin right

 

I have a touring 93 auto and it also has 2 coolers , 1 in each of the front air ducts/bumper holes. Not an r1 here.

 

how do i use the hold function according to the manual it locks it in gear and wont shift.

 

Try carfax , might come up and tell you if its r1 or not?

 

Hold will make it shift kinda like a manual , it locks it in the gear you have it in so you have to manually move it from 1st to 2nd etc, so you can redline it in every gear if you want.

 

all carfax said was that it was a coupe and a 1.3l rotary which i already knew so ill take a trip up to mazda to find out for sure

 

oh and it said it was made in japn but nothing else

 

oh and a big factor in thinking its a r1 is no sunroof i hope its an r1 at least, did the touring come with no sunroof?
the ladie that had it before me had the motor replaced 2 times so who knows she might have had it changed like i said i will just have to go to mazda and ask them to run the vin

 

The one on the Pass side is the ATF cooler
R-1's are 5speed ONLY
An fd w/ cloth seats, auto, and no sunroof is a BASE model

 

push HOLD, drop to lowest gear, power brake till your wheels slip or feel car move somewhat slightly, and finally, let go of brake pedal...(somone here has a more technical explaination i'm sure)

i have an auto, too but honestly...if you were looking to do much more with this car than why an auto instead of manual?

after your done kicking yourself in the head go ask the seller about that lie she told you and tell her "RX-7 Club knows about you!!!"

 

i had my dad call his car dealer freind and he looked it up for me it is an r1 and it did come manual now the ? is who in the hell would trade out an manual for an auto? i want to cry i want the manual tranny i bet money that when she had the engine replaced she did it
this is a sad day to learn that my car once was more fun to drive i think it need a manual put back in.... now for the money, ya may be awhile

 

This is a copy and paste from an older post I made:


First off, work on your launch technique. Intuitively, one will think, "It's AUTOMATIC! All I do is stomp the accelerator, right?" Wrong. Ever notice that the car has almost no power when you stomp the accelerator? If you gradually depress the accelerater, then you will get a much faster launch. A great AT (Automatic Transmission) launch requires both practice and know-how. Listen up.


This is just about the fastest way to launch the AT FD.

- Put the transmission selector in the "L" position.
- Activate the Hold feature by pressing the Hold button on the top of the transmission selector.
- Press FIRMLY on the brake with your left foot.
- Carefully depress the accelerator with your right foot until you just about reach your stall speed. Your stall speed will likely be at or above 2500rpm. If you don't know what the stall speed is, scroll down to the end of this post. You are now doing what is called "Brake Torquing". You will hear creaking sounds as your revs increase. This is normal. Don't do this for longer peroids of time (1 minute MAX!), because you are drastically raising the temperature of your transmission fluid.
- When the light turns green, release the break, but DO NOT stomp the accelerator. GRADUALLY depress the accelerator as your car gains speed. You should not reach WOT (Wide Open Throttle - accelerator fully depressed) until about 5000rpm.
- At 6500rpm press the Hold button again to disable the hold feature and allow the car to shift automatically.


--- STALL SPEED ---
This is the maximum rate at which your TC (Torque Converter) can spin while your brakes are locked. The stock AT FD TC usually stalls the engine anywhere between 2500rpm and 3000rpm. Stall speed is affected by temperature, TC design, TC condition, ECU, and probably other stuff. You can find your stall speed by brake torquing until the engine seems like it is struggling to run (i.e. it seems like the engine is on the brink of stalling). Try not to stall your engine.

 

thank you JONSKI...
i knew you would chime in!!!