Hey guys, i tried installing a pilot bearing but it doesn't seem to be made the same way a manual engine is made.

Am i wrong? am i doing something wrong? i remember removing a pilot bearing from a manual engine and it seemed easy to remove. It really doesn't seem the same way as a manual

anyone has something to say about their experience with this?

thanks a lot

 

oh and when i see pilot bearing seal are we talking about the rear main seal or is it a different part?

from what i can see in the parts fiche, the seal seems to be installed after the pilot bearing is put in place. So i guess this is not the rear main seal huh?

 

nothing special about the pilot bearing but you have to be gentle with it since it is a roller bearing and can be damaged easily, it also has to be started perfectly straight since if it ***** to the side it may get damaged. the seal goes in after the pilot bearing, some people don't even worry about the seal since the friction dust rarely travels into that area.

 

i just tried installing the bearing and it fits really good until the 3/4 of the bearing and then, it really seem stuck. i can push it with my fingers at first and then, i am unable to move it more.

is this supposed to be really hard to enter? i try tapping it with a hammer and a 14mm socket but i don't want to hit to hard not to damage it.

thanks again

 

make sure none of the old bearing is still in the eccentric shaft. the bearing will be a very snug fit so you will have to tap it in with a hammer with a little force but nothing brutal.

 

what if i try cleaning the hole a little bit a dremel tool? would that be a bad idea?

 

not at all, that is what i would do.

anyways i gotta get back to work so hopefully some of the others here can help you out.

 

I just completed an AT to MT swap and had the same problem. I seems that the eshaft for ATs is not necessarily machined to accept the pilot bearing. I used my air tool grinder and ground the eshaft out and the bearing fit like a charm! Yes it was spooky at first, and I was "fortunate enough" to have my son's eshaft to compare with (his engine blew a seal and we were in the process of rebuilding it).

If you need the details on the grinding bit I used I'll see what I can do. It was just one of the standard bits that come in the kits from Wal-Mart, AutoZone, Home Depot etc. Just a mm or so larger than the unfinished shaft.

 

hmm well that'S what i wanted to know, i guess i'll give it a shot and let you guys know how it went.

 

well just went and retried it but the bearing is way to tight and when i try the seal without the bearing, it is way to loose.

it seems like the inside of the E shaft is taper, is that possible?

should i even bother puting the seal in? it is way to loose, i am sure it won't seal anything...

 

well i pushed the bearing as far as i could and it seem i don't even have enough space to put a seal so the heck with it.

i beleive the problem is that the e-shaft hole is not round, it seems to be oval a little bit. This is probably why the first bearing that was installed got kinked.

i don't know how that is possible but it is. i am not even able to make the bearing turn with my finger, i need to pry it a little bit on the side so it can't turn.

better than the bearing that was in place though, it won't even turn anymore.

anyway, i am going to leave it like that.

thanks for your help guys.