kly

im not finding alot of info about auto fd’s except that i need to change it to a manual?
I would like to know what i need to do that would be different than a manual like ecu controllers, using hold how to launch it for 1/4 mile. Not plainy on maken any huge hp numbers just a weekend car.
Go ahead and flame me im new so i accept it.

RuffRyder

iTrader: (1)

Well i own an auto and they are a pain. Well it has been said that auto can go up to max 350hp before it starts giving you problems. There has still been no ecu that works perfectly with auto. Apexi power fc works but it gets rid of your hold feature. Then you can use some piggy back systems but they need some customization. There are actually a bunch of threads about changing auto to manual. Can't help you with that one...search a little more and it will come up.

a3dcadman

iTrader: (1)

Look for post from WEAKLINK. He has experience with a TCU system for controlling the auto tranny. He also has had his tranny modified for handling higher performance levels.

There are some nice roads over in the Silverdale area for cruising. Definitely a lot less traffic than this side of the sound.

Chuck

bajaman

Auto FDs are not bad, especially once you get used to them. The only REAL performance degradation over their manual brothers comes from a dead start, and this is where you lose about 1/2 to 1 second across the board, performance wise. However, a properly running auto pulls like a ******' freight train with max boost all the way to whatever speed you want to go.
My lightly modded auto is a fast mother, and there have been several members that have had some that make mine look weak.
But to get back to your launch question....
It just takes a little practice (and the understanding that you are shortening your tranny life) to make a decent launch, but keep in mind that in NO WAY will you mimic a 5-speed.
Here is how I do it:

• put car in L, push 'hold'
• put left foot on brake
• slowly depress accelerator, let revs build to 2800 - 3400 stall point (varies from car to car)
• release brake and stomp gas

If you do it JUST right, you get an INSTANT rush and whoosh of boost and you will be banging the rev limiter nearly instantly (if you do it wrong, you'll experience a slight "bog"). You have to be prepared to push the 'hold' button off (which will shift you to second), redline it out, push the gear shift lever forward into 'S', car will shift to to third, redline it again and shift to drive. If you keep your foot buried the whole time the car will hit somewhere around 140ish before the torque converter fully locks in, and then you'll feel the revs drop again and the speed climb, almost as if you had a 5th gear. Hard to describe adequately, just try it.
A good running car will usually haze the tires when it hits second...be VERY careful as you are going to be going around 40 mph and it is NOT fun to suddenly find yourself sideways or spinning out of control. The way the boost hits hard and the secondary injectors are giving all the dino-juice they can deliver about this time can make an automatic car a bit of a handful. And for God's sake don't do ANYTHING like this on less than ideal, dry pavement!
Realistically, you will have much more fun by just understanding that a huge, tire-smoking launch is not really practical. The best way to get max acceleration is to put the car in 'L', push 'hold', give it about half throttle and then NAIL IT. It will kind of "think" about things for a second, but then it will redline very, very fast (like less than a second) so be ready to push 'hold' off, then be ready to push the gear selector to 'S' and then onto 'D' when you redline 'S'. Truthfully, 90% of the time you'll accelerate harder and faster this way than if you try to 'powerbrake' it, and you'll save your tranny.
Have fun with it, embrace it, love it. And think about all those clutches you'll never have to replace....lol!

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

Assembly, dash, harness, clutch cylinders, etc. and alot of patience

bajaman

Uhhhh....I don't think he is WANTING to switch to a 5-speed. He just noted that most people suggest doing so.

jeff p

The auto is just fine if you don't race and you said you just want a weekend car. check out my mods below my car is just as fast as any manuel FD with the same mods , and with the 4.33 rear end gears the manuel cars have no real advantage over me. and the best part about my car is its in way better shape than all the manuels I've seen around. I get a lot of complements on my car and nobody down grades it for being automatic.
Jeff

a3dcadman

iTrader: (1)

Ive never owned an auto till I bought a perfect condition 93 auto with 19,000 miles. People are always astounded at the pristine condition of my car. It goes very fast. Fast enough to get tickets, fast enough to kill me and the car, and it will smoke most any car that wants to challenge me. Definitely change the rear end as Jeff stated, makes a huge difference. Have fun with your vehicle and enjoy it.
Chuck

Mybaby

Now your talking. Tranny, pedals, clutch, shifter, harness, ECU and that's the start. Yur looking at a couple thousand $$$.
On the other hand you can stick with you Auto and modify upto 365 rwhp (from the mouth of Steve Kan) . I am pushing about 320.
Now that's with my Auto tranny, 3" exhaust, HKS Twin ignite, Blitz SMIC, 99 Twins, Efini Y, TKT Intake, 850 CC injectors on Primary, Greedy S Blowoff, AVC-R, and a few more minor details. (Kan's suggestions)
I've been the only owner of my 95 auto FD. I suppose the reliability of the car may be nicer to me due to the knowledge I have gained over the past 10 yrs. More probably due to the fact that the car is an everyday driver that stays in the garage looking pretty most of the time.
Now if your auto is running stock at 265 rwhp just image almost a 100 more horses. To my knowledge and experience cruising there are not many cars I have come across that can touch mine (there are definately many but I havn't come across).
So, If your not looking to race, just spend quality $$ on the right products to maxime your Auto. Believe me if you want to go big you can deifinately do it in an Auto FD3. Late

kly

Thanks guys u have been a huge help. I bought I auto cause it was in such good shape the guy only put the head light conversion kit on and parked it for about 7 years but had all the maintenance records to show he took care of it and i bought it for 13000. I go to the track aug 4th!

jeff p

Hey Chuck!
still waiting on my twinpower to come. I'll let you know how it goes. I don't know why guys bash the autos . ours seem to work great
Jeff

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Just wanted to correct something here:

FDs stock made around 210-220 rear wheel horsepower (rwhp) [not 265] and were rated at 255 at the flywheel.

If an auto can safely handle 365 rwhp, you are looking at around 430 flywheel hp, assuming 15% driveline loss.