Searched for write ups. Was wondering if anyone has removed steel barbed fitting from thermostat housing body and replaced with 10mm freeze plug as part of their AST removal?

Or other solutions? I just didn't like the rubber/silicone cap and hose clamp solution. Plan on welding the radiator AST fitting shut.

Is that barbed fitting on the thermostat housing pressed in? Thanks for your replies.

 

i remember a post before, where someone cut off the nipple, tapped it and stuck a bolt in, sealed and flush

 

Mine was bent/torn when I got it, a little motivation in the form of a pair of vise-grips and out that came. I don't think I even had to drill it for the 1/8" NPT tap to work. Then you can add whatever you want. I feel that a pipe thread would be much more suitable than a bolt and some sealer though.

Why remove the AST? It serves a purpose.

 

Most people don't.

I just cut the hose, inserted a bolt and clamped it down with a couple of hose clamps. Been holding fine for a couple of years and is totally reversible.

Damian cut and tapped that nipple. Search for his thread.

 

[QUOTE=gracer7-rx7;7120560]Most people don't.

I just cut the hose, inserted a bolt and clamped it down with a couple of hose clamps. Been holding fine for a couple of years and is totally reversible.
.[/Q

Is the AST still doing anything if you plug of the hose?

Im planning on getting an Aluminium AST that wont split! Just waiting for a good one to pop up of Yahoo Auctions.

 

In my experience, here's the easiest/most reliable way to do it:

route the hose that was on the nipple on the rad up to the nipple that comes off of the thermostat housing. Boom, done. My FD made a ~2000 mile trip recently down to Deal's Gap with no cooling issues whatsoever .

 

What did you do about a recovery tank?

 

why would you remove the ast?

 

Same reason I removed my P/S and A/C, less points of failure in the engine bay

 

keeping the ast = FTL actually our ast's are pointless. they do work, but not as intended nor in the efficiency as intended being the water/thermo housing is higher then it. also as already stated we remove it for simplicity, less points of failure.. and it's cheaper then a 200$ metal ast that's makes no difference wether you have or not. i used a end cap on mine, for the housing and rad. as forwhoever was asking about a resoivoir... you never remove that... unless your thinkin gthe ast also serves as a resovoir then your mistaken. (not trying to sound rude) your resovoir sits front pass corner of car right behind headlight, you'll see the neck. the container part is under the mody inside the fender liner.


Los

 

Because the AST is made of plastic, it will split when under extreme heat caused by engine, leaking coolant into the engine.

 

No didn't think you were being rude - It sounded like Rich was bypassing the AST by taking that nipple and routing it down to the suction side of the RAD which is fine, but he made no mention of the overflow. Since he removed the AST, he removed the overflow output cap. He never said anything about using the FC rad cap ontop of the FD wp housing so I was curious.

I agree that it really doesn't work as well as it should, which is why in my FC I built my own and moved it over to the shock tower so it IS the highest point. And no, I don't have an REW in an FC.

 

Found post by damian describing plan to bypass coolant to the UIM. damonB didn't appear to do a write up either. I seem to recall it pictures and all, wonder if it was in the missing threads lost a couple of years ago.

anyways, couldn't find any 10mm freeze, core, or expansion plugs (thanks wikipedia) at mcmaster.com or autozone. google says apparently bmw motorcycles use them, the boat people mercury use stainless.

My reasons for removal: it's in the way, removing potential points of failure, it's been done for years, has anyone heard of any long time owners putting one back in?

 

whell i ment the aftermarket ast i know the stock ones fail.. how does it help the engine without it?

 

I used the FC filler neck cap, with that nipple routed to the overflow. I'm also using a Blitz 1.3 bar cap.

I'm not sure that it 'helps' the engine w/out the AST, but my FD runs fine without it, and it cleans up the engine bay. Only negative I've seen is purging the cooling system of air can be more of a bitch.

 

Sorry mate, im new

 

Any one know what kind of "barbed" fitting that 10mm steel tube is called? I don't think its called a barb. I want to find a replacement source in case I need to put it back in.