asp medium installed - pics
02-29-04, 10:22 AM
#26
0-rotor-0-turbo-0-fd
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The SMIC looks wonderfull, nice size to, and the yellow hoses look real cute.
One little suggestion I got for you though!
The pulleys, can you powder coat them in yellow to mach the rest or polish tem, either would do just fine.
Great job man, and thanks for sharing with us.
One little suggestion I got for you though!
The pulleys, can you powder coat them in yellow to mach the rest or polish tem, either would do just fine.
Great job man, and thanks for sharing with us.
05-14-04, 11:03 PM
#29
Missin' my FD
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Looks good. I guess the advantages of this setup would be:
1. Better airflow to the radiator
2. Less IC piping (therefore less lag?)
Just curious...
1. Better airflow to the radiator
2. Less IC piping (therefore less lag?)
Just curious...
05-15-04, 03:18 AM
#30
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I had the same issue with my strut bar when I had my M2 intercooler. I really liked that intercooler but I did notice that my new front mount works alittle better. Nice pics. The yellow really stands out.
07-23-09, 03:22 PM
#31
M2 medium IC: turbo-IC pipe/coupler --> boost leak fix?
I've been blowing the turbo-IC pipe off for the last couple of months... will take about 10 pulls at 13+psi and the top pipe gets a little bit loose where the coupler is connected to the turbos. I then have to readjust the pipe and coupler and retighten the clamp. The coupler and clamps are in good shape, they are pretty stiff and maintain good clamp on the pipe. The angle of the pipe coming out of the turbos to the IC is very sharp, but the backside of the pipe (that faces away from the IC) doesn't have a whole lot of clamping surface. I think that trimming the coupler will help alleviate the problem...
Anyone had success with what's highlighted in bold here? I'm getting a little annoyed by the boost leaks when I'm in the middle of a fun run
I'm thinking of having another pipe fabbed up if I can't get the coupler to fit better.
Anyone had success with what's highlighted in bold here? I'm getting a little annoyed by the boost leaks when I'm in the middle of a fun run
I'm thinking of having another pipe fabbed up if I can't get the coupler to fit better.Here is something I posted way back and I found it just for you
By the way Kevin, can I get a new cross over pipe from you? I have an older segmented one from M2 that sucks and I don't have an air pump. Thanks
Here is one I did a while back for somebody else.
Allright dang it. someone better sticky this,as it is a problem for all the M2 installs I have seen, even the ones installed at M2. Do this. The problem is that the crossover pipe:1 now goes to a slightly lower spot under the hood as before it went to the middle and highest point. 2 the pipe is not bent sharply enough. As the stock one has a 90 deg. sharp bend in it. The pipe now sits higher due to the coupler getting in the way of putting the pipe down low enough to get the position that the stock one is in. You need to carefully cut the coupler at a bias so the front (under the bend) is shorter than the rear. Do it slowly and cut a little off then more as needed so you don't cut too much and have no coupler. Basically if you look at the coupler head on it is flat across the top. You want to cut it so it slants down from one side. Only cut the side that couples to the crossover pipe. You then put the coupler onto the crossover pipe and see how much there is when it stops sliding up. If it looks like about the right amount so that the turbo outlet will contact the M2 crossover when you put it together (about 1and1/2 inch or so +/-) you're in good shape. Now hold the coupler on the M2 pipe so the bottom is flat and put the clamp on so it is just above the rib on the pipe. This may take a few tries as the coupler wants to slide off the pipe and get crooked. When you get it on there now put the pipe onto the turbo outlet. the pipe should now set lower and clear the brace.
Make sure that the fan wires are not under the intercooler duct too as this will cause it to set up a bit and short your wires to boot.
One more thing to check is a bolt on the frame brace that holds a clamp for a coolant line must be removed to get the intertcooler to set right.
The intercooler also can be moved in position slightly front to back and it will slightly change the height of the pipe. Just loosen the clamps and move it a bit. it will also help with the duct not lining up if you push the intercooler against it.
This now should cure one problem but the rubbing on the hood will still happen untill you take a mallet and some wood and LIGHTLY bang the pipe a bit flatter where it is rubbing on the hood. this is with the stock rad. and fans so some may not have the secondary problem.Also I have some rubber under the intercooler that sets it up just a bit which may be causing this.
By the way Kevin, can I get a new cross over pipe from you? I have an older segmented one from M2 that sucks and I don't have an air pump. ThanksHere is one I did a while back for somebody else.
Allright dang it. someone better sticky this,as it is a problem for all the M2 installs I have seen, even the ones installed at M2. Do this. The problem is that the crossover pipe:1 now goes to a slightly lower spot under the hood as before it went to the middle and highest point. 2 the pipe is not bent sharply enough. As the stock one has a 90 deg. sharp bend in it. The pipe now sits higher due to the coupler getting in the way of putting the pipe down low enough to get the position that the stock one is in. You need to carefully cut the coupler at a bias so the front (under the bend) is shorter than the rear. Do it slowly and cut a little off then more as needed so you don't cut too much and have no coupler. Basically if you look at the coupler head on it is flat across the top. You want to cut it so it slants down from one side. Only cut the side that couples to the crossover pipe. You then put the coupler onto the crossover pipe and see how much there is when it stops sliding up. If it looks like about the right amount so that the turbo outlet will contact the M2 crossover when you put it together (about 1and1/2 inch or so +/-) you're in good shape. Now hold the coupler on the M2 pipe so the bottom is flat and put the clamp on so it is just above the rib on the pipe. This may take a few tries as the coupler wants to slide off the pipe and get crooked. When you get it on there now put the pipe onto the turbo outlet. the pipe should now set lower and clear the brace.
Make sure that the fan wires are not under the intercooler duct too as this will cause it to set up a bit and short your wires to boot.
One more thing to check is a bolt on the frame brace that holds a clamp for a coolant line must be removed to get the intertcooler to set right.
The intercooler also can be moved in position slightly front to back and it will slightly change the height of the pipe. Just loosen the clamps and move it a bit. it will also help with the duct not lining up if you push the intercooler against it.
This now should cure one problem but the rubbing on the hood will still happen untill you take a mallet and some wood and LIGHTLY bang the pipe a bit flatter where it is rubbing on the hood. this is with the stock rad. and fans so some may not have the secondary problem.Also I have some rubber under the intercooler that sets it up just a bit which may be causing this.
07-26-09, 09:35 PM
#33
90* COUPLERS
