http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...or=&cardist=80

Could be a good deal, but I think I'd try to negotiate on the price a bit if the car checked out ok.

 

looks good

 

Here's the standard deal.
1. Visual inspection, pay a lot of attention to the condition of the engine bay. Look for oil leaks, coolant leaks, smell of gas. Inspect the paint at the seams for signs of re-paint (could be from accidents). Check the interior for loose parts, fading, cracked plastics.
2. Test drive, feel the boost and transition. Listen for suspension, steering noises (minor noises are acceptable, it is a 10+ year old car). Stability in cornering.
3. Compression test. Coolant system pressure test. Pop the coolant pressure cap and idle the car to look for any signs of small bubbles.

If the car fails anything in 1 or 2 of the above test, the car would be a fair buy.
If the car fails anything the the 3rd test, be prepared to factor in the price of a new engine in the short term.
If the car passes all of the above tests, it's a damn good deal, jump on it.

 

Thanks for the tips. I kind of knew the first 2, but 3 is new to me. I've got a boost gauge and hose that I'll bring to hook up if he doesn't have one already(10-8-10 right?) , but I forget what the vacuum at idle is supposed to be? I've emailed the guy about a compression test, said it hasn't had one, but the turbos were tested by a shop in VA (i'm guessing PFS or Rotary Performance?) in November.

 

Well, just heard from the guy, car is sold already. Oh well.