Anyone ever had secondary injectors sticking?
#1
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Anyone ever had secondary injectors sticking?
Just as the title says just wondering if anyone here has had a problem with their secondary injectors sticking open before transition, and if so what were your symptoms? TIA, jamie
#3
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O boy do I know. Here was my list had both stuck open. Major flooding, hard starting, smoking, fuel smell, and when the fuel pump primed the pressure dropped of to 0 in a second. You would need a fuel pressure gauge for the last one.
My advise remove all the injectors and send them to be cleaned either RC or witchhunter. Good luck!
My advise remove all the injectors and send them to be cleaned either RC or witchhunter. Good luck!
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Thats The Thing I Sent Them To Marren Fuel Injection Last Summer When I Had The Motor Rebuilt. Ever Since Ive Had A Fuel Problem With The Car. Comes Out Of The Hole Strong But Tip In At Like Say Third Gear And The Car Just Bogs Until It Hits Transition.
Echoratz, Could You Gimme A More In Depth Description Of Your Problem/symptoms Please?
Echoratz, Could You Gimme A More In Depth Description Of Your Problem/symptoms Please?
#6
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Well I Guess Everyone Is Pretty Lucky, Unlike Me To Never Have Had Any Fuel Issues! Ive Been Tracking And Troubleshooting Mine For Over A Year Now........
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#8
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Yeah if you smell a raw gas or funny idle and what not like that. Lest thats how it was for me. I put new injectors in and has worked fine sence then. I would also make sure the little O rings around the injectors and block are there too.
#10
I think my 1300's are leaking after sitting for so long waiting for a new motor. I have some weird idle and fuel issues that I never had before and havent changed a thing. I am going to send them off sometime soon...I hope.
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Im Trying To Put In A Set Of Secondaries That Cam From Pettit Sent Me Overnight To See If It May Be The Secondaries. If That Does Not Help Then I Will Try The Primaries...
#13
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I had two bad injectors and two sets of symptoms (all at the same time, which made it more confusing)
1) leaking primary - lumpy, rough idle, only one rotor firing properly. It ran ok at mid-rpm, but I didn't push it since I wasn't sure what was wrong.
2) stuck secondary - bucking/hesitation under boost, when I was doing test drives I could sometimes barely pull out and accelerate since any load at all resulted in bucking. It could happen at 1psi or 10psi, but it would buck. I was scared I'd hurt the car, especially when the boost would get to 5-10psi before the bucking set in.
While they were still in the car, I did a simple DIY test:
- lift rail from the block, pressurize fuel, and apply voltage to injector using a battery. I got consistent fuel release using a battery on the injector wiring, but I think the battery was much more powerful than the ECU signal.
- pressurize rail and look for leaks - I saw no leaks from any injector
- I did not have a wideband - it should have shown going lean when the bucking occured. For an injector sticking open, it would show really rich.
I changed to a low-mileage set that were cleaned by RC and all of that went away, problem solved. I recently sent the injectors to WitchHunter and his before/after tests showed the leaking primary and stuck secondary, and I'm still not sure why that wasn't found until WitchHunter tested them. Perhaps it's because it only stuck when it was at a particular duty cycle.
Moral: never get injectors cleaned and installed unless there is a good quality testing done by a real shop. The local joe who did my injector cleaning could not test side-feeds and my DIY tests apparently don't work.
Dave
1) leaking primary - lumpy, rough idle, only one rotor firing properly. It ran ok at mid-rpm, but I didn't push it since I wasn't sure what was wrong.
2) stuck secondary - bucking/hesitation under boost, when I was doing test drives I could sometimes barely pull out and accelerate since any load at all resulted in bucking. It could happen at 1psi or 10psi, but it would buck. I was scared I'd hurt the car, especially when the boost would get to 5-10psi before the bucking set in.
While they were still in the car, I did a simple DIY test:
- lift rail from the block, pressurize fuel, and apply voltage to injector using a battery. I got consistent fuel release using a battery on the injector wiring, but I think the battery was much more powerful than the ECU signal.
- pressurize rail and look for leaks - I saw no leaks from any injector
- I did not have a wideband - it should have shown going lean when the bucking occured. For an injector sticking open, it would show really rich.
I changed to a low-mileage set that were cleaned by RC and all of that went away, problem solved. I recently sent the injectors to WitchHunter and his before/after tests showed the leaking primary and stuck secondary, and I'm still not sure why that wasn't found until WitchHunter tested them. Perhaps it's because it only stuck when it was at a particular duty cycle.
Moral: never get injectors cleaned and installed unless there is a good quality testing done by a real shop. The local joe who did my injector cleaning could not test side-feeds and my DIY tests apparently don't work.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 12-16-05 at 11:17 AM.
#18
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External leaks are either o ring seals or a defective injector.
Sticking is caused by fuel residue and varnish. The reason for this is that
the rotary runs at much higher temps and when the engine is shut off hot
it bakes whatever varnish of fuel residue and eventually clogs the injector.
Three things you can do:
1. Use only tier one premium gasoline(ie: BP, Shell Texaco, no Speedway,
Swifty, Thorton or other cut rates.) The additive packages added by these refiners is better.
2. Use a good grade of fuel additive injector cleaner, GM, Ford ,Mazda or my favorite, Chevron injection cleaner with Tech-Ron.
3. Use an upper lube in the fuel like Klotz synthetic 2 stroke oil for oil injected snowmobiles, 1 quart for 20 gallons or Idemitsu rotary engine fuel mix. Your injectors and your apex seals will love you.
Joe Geiman
Linder Technical Service
Gasoline Alley Fuel Injection
Speedway, In
www.lindertech.com
Sticking is caused by fuel residue and varnish. The reason for this is that
the rotary runs at much higher temps and when the engine is shut off hot
it bakes whatever varnish of fuel residue and eventually clogs the injector.
Three things you can do:
1. Use only tier one premium gasoline(ie: BP, Shell Texaco, no Speedway,
Swifty, Thorton or other cut rates.) The additive packages added by these refiners is better.
2. Use a good grade of fuel additive injector cleaner, GM, Ford ,Mazda or my favorite, Chevron injection cleaner with Tech-Ron.
3. Use an upper lube in the fuel like Klotz synthetic 2 stroke oil for oil injected snowmobiles, 1 quart for 20 gallons or Idemitsu rotary engine fuel mix. Your injectors and your apex seals will love you.
Joe Geiman
Linder Technical Service
Gasoline Alley Fuel Injection
Speedway, In
www.lindertech.com
Last edited by Joe Geiman; 12-17-05 at 07:36 AM.
#19
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Well I Found The Fuel Pulsation Damper To Be Leaking While Doing The Secondary Injector Swap This Weekend, I Have A New One On The Way Is There Anything Else That I Should Bedoing While Im In There?
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